Hieu, my younger brother who went to Bach Ma on a previous cross-Vietnam trip with me, now works in the South. He called one summer morning, complaining about "missing the mountain." And I'm easily moved when someone wants to go to Bach Ma – my mountain.

Located about 40 km south of Hue city center along the Thien Ly highway, Bach Ma National Park is one of the places beloved by wildlife enthusiasts, as expressed in essays and captions in photographs taken during the 1930s and 40s. When the French were in Vietnam, to escape the tropical summer heat, they built resorts and health centers, all situated high in the mountains. These included Da Lat, Sa Pa, Tam Dao, Ba Na, and Bach Ma. Ba Na and Bach Ma, in particular, are not only located high in the mountains but also close to the sea.

But Bach Ma is unique because, between the ocean and the mountains, lies the Tam Giang Lagoon. The salt spray from the ocean is diluted by the Tam Giang Lagoon, which "absorbs" some of it before it blows up into the Bach Ma mountains and forests. Therefore, the ideal climate here makes it a habitat for many species of birds, animals, and plants to live and thrive.

And thanks to that, people also have a place to immerse themselves in pristine nature, a chance to love nature more, to understand nature more, and to cherish nature more. I am fortunate to have had the opportunity to receive that opportunity. And I am always open to sharing that opportunity with those who have the chance to go to Bach Ma with me.

Going back in time, the beauty of Bach Ma Mountain was discovered by Raoul Desmarets, a civil engineer in the Thua Thien region, along with Graffeuil, the Resident Commissioner of Central Vietnam. Both dreamed of building a resort worthy of Hue, the capital of Central Vietnam. In 1933, Desmarets conducted research to build a village on the jagged mountain ridges of Bach Ma. He was the first to have a wooden hut built – where he stayed during the days he came to supervise the initial planning work for the resort. Architect Raoul Desmarets was also the designer of the Tu Do Stadium in Hue (1932).

Many wooden structures were built on the mountaintop as a result. The number of these houses increased steadily, reaching 139 wooden or stone houses and villas by 1945. By March 1945, the day the Japanese occupied the area and the French left, Bach Ma fell into oblivion.

In 1986, the Bach Ma Nature Reserve was established. In 1991, Bach Ma National Park was founded. After an expansion in 2008, Bach Ma National Park's area increased to nearly 40,000 hectares, renowned for its diverse biodiversity with many rare animal and plant species, and is one of the important "green lungs" of Central Vietnam. It is also one of the rare resorts once beloved by the French that still preserves many of its pristine natural beauties.

As planned, Hieu flew from Saigon to Hue. Around the same time, two colleagues from Hanoi, who also wanted to visit Bach Ma to survey the tour route, joined our group. We all agreed to go by motorbike to explore the scenery along the way.

After breakfast and coffee to get acquainted, the four of us, on two motorbikes, rode along the country roads and Tam Giang Lagoon instead of the national highway to Bach Ma. Nearly three hours of riding along the southern edge of Tam Giang Lagoon, we arrived at the Bach Ma National Park's visitor center in the early afternoon.

To reach the summit, you can go by car or on foot; our choice was by car. The road up Bach Ma Mountain has long been known for its steep slopes and winding curves.

Viet, the national park's shuttle driver whom I often travel with, greeted the group with a warm smile. Viet knew every bend and slope from the foot of the mountain to near the summit, so he always gave me a sense of security when giving commentary to my companions in the car. Along that treacherous 15-kilometer stretch, the scenery below gradually unfolded as the altitude increased, and visitors began to be captivated by the majestic beauty of Bach Ma mountain.

Nearly an hour later, upon arriving at the Do Quyen restaurant, I told Viet to take the main road and lead our companions on a more challenging but potentially more adventurous "nature trail." Hieu, who had reached the summit via the main road during our previous trip to Bach Ma, was naturally eager to experience this new trail.

Crossing the orchid garden, the group immediately encountered a steep slope that left everyone breathless after climbing only halfway. I instructed everyone to keep quiet, only whispering when necessary, so that the silence would allow "nature's friends" to appear.

As I predicted, while the group was resting, we spotted a large black squirrel swinging from branch to branch right above our heads. The large black squirrel (scientific name Ratufa bicolor) is about the size of an adult cat, but longer thanks to its beautiful long black tail which helps it maintain balance when moving at high altitudes. From head to tail, it's about 1 meter long, covered in black, but the area from its cheeks, past its ears, down to its belly and the front of its two front legs is a beautiful creamy yellow color. It possesses strong claws that help it grip firmly onto tree trunks while foraging. Large black squirrels are usually active during the day, high in the trees, but sometimes climb down into the forest canopy to forage on the ground. Their main food consists of seeds, pine cones, fruits, and leaves. Large black squirrels are mostly solitary and prefer wild forests. In 2009, this species was listed in the IUCN Red List (International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources).

We stood in silence, simply watching our friend in the black and yellow plumage swing from branch to branch, sometimes leaping high into the air with great skill and grace.

Our group continued further up, where we encountered several old villas left behind from the 1940s. The passage of time still evokes nostalgic feelings in travelers, reminiscent of the place's past, through the walls and chimneys of these villas, some unfinished and others destroyed by war.

After nearly an hour's walk, we reached Hai Vong Tower, located at an altitude of over 1,400 meters. It's one of the highest viewpoints on the summit and a favorite spot for anyone visiting Bach Ma to watch the sunset. From here, the entire landscape of Bach Ma mountain and forest unfolds majestically, expansively, and pristine.

Far out towards the sea lies Cau Hai Lagoon – part of the Tam Giang lagoon system, the largest brackish water lagoon system in Southeast Asia with abundant marine resources – providing livelihoods for generations to an entire region stretching approximately 70 km from North to South along the Thua Thien coast. On clear days like that, a keen eye can even spot the fishing nets and traps, the fishing gear of the local people spread across the lagoon's surface. From above, the confluence of the Tam Giang lagoon and the sea is also clearly visible, the Tu Hien estuary, which our group had driven past earlier that day.

Just to the right of the setting sun lies Truoi Lake – the source of fresh water for the entire Truoi region, famous for the folk song: “The land of Truoi is sweet with jackfruit and fragrant with strawberries / I went to be a son-in-law, and stayed for a long time.” The sweetness of the lake water is likely due in part to the fresh spring water flowing from Bach Ma Mountain.

I showed the group the remnants of the helicopter landing pad and shared some information about the soldiers who were stationed there during the war; in the distance were the Hai Mountains, Mang Mountains, and of course, Bach Ma Peak, all clustered together to create a majestic mountain landscape.

Everyone took the opportunity to take some souvenir photos together. I brought out a pot of delicious tea I had prepared and offered it to the whole group. The air was pure, and the fragrant aroma of the tea filled the air, making everyone want to take a deep breath.

As evening approached, the wind grew cooler, and clouds, carried by the breeze from the sea, drifted lazily over the surrounding mountains. Perhaps the mountains were named Bach Ma (White Horse) because their shape resembled white horses? In response, my three companions simply nodded, their eyes gazing out at the vast expanse before them. Each wanted to preserve this pristine tranquility, as if speaking aloud would only cause the wind to carry it away. Though no words were spoken, their gazes conveyed a profound sense of longing and nostalgia.

The afternoon sun cast golden rays, shimmering like wild honey, bringing the sunset to the clouds and wind, intertwining them. Amidst this dazzling scene, we could only remain silent to enjoy it, to immerse ourselves in the wild nature, so unrestrained yet so poetic.

As the sun began to set over the horizon, we prepared to head down. The temperature was around 20-23 degrees Celsius.^oC (compared to 35-37 in the city)^oC). The brothers stirred and stood up, exclaiming, "This is paradise! This is a heavenly place!"

On the way down, the calls of evening birds echoed, creating a lingering feeling. I could also hear the rustling of the brown-footed langurs swinging from branch to branch as they returned to their sleeping spot (which is chosen by the alpha male each night). "We might see them again tomorrow morning!" I said, to ease my friends' disappointment at not having seen those special primates.

At kilometer 0, Mr. Viet met us and took us to Kim Giao Villa – our accommodation for the night. This is one of the accommodations in the National Park currently serving tourists who stay overnight in Bach Ma. The facilities are very basic, with hot water and comfortable beds, which is enough for sleeping in the mountainous landscape of Bach Ma. Perhaps, thanks to this simplicity, the number of tourists staying in Bach Ma is not overwhelming, allowing the tranquility of the night to remain – a tranquility that anyone who loves wild nature possesses and wants to preserve in return for Mother Nature's generosity. The scenery my brother and I enjoyed this afternoon is one of those gifts.

We had dinner at the Do Quyen restaurant, which was originally a dance hall in Bach Ma during the late 1930s and early 1940s. When tourism revived later, the building was renovated based on its existing architecture to serve as a dining establishment for tourists visiting Bach Ma.

I made many new friends who share a love for nature through the evening gatherings and meetups here. Mr. Phuong, who served us dinner, is one of those friends.

He used to work as a forest ranger in the National Park, and later, when tourism services developed within the park, he switched to serving tourists: from cooking, waiting tables, cleaning rooms to being a tour guide and photographer – he did it all. He once told me that doing so allowed him to stay on Bach Ma more, to meet more nature lovers who came here, to share his love of nature, and of course, to receive a similar connection from those travelers. For over 20 years working on Bach Ma, he spent more time in the mountains and forests than at home, even though his house is right in the town at the foot of the mountain. He is one of the living encyclopedias about Bach Ma that I think of first when I need information.

After having dinner with some friends, I suggested we all go outside to stargaze. The summer night sky in the mountains was beautiful, crystal clear with not a single cloud, allowing us to see the countless twinkling stars. Not everyone gets to see such a sight, especially up in the mountains like we were at that moment.

Not wanting to miss the sunrise the next morning, we took advantage of the time when the constellation Scorpio was high in the sky to go to sleep.

It was still early dawn when I woke the whole group up. After warming ourselves up, we turned on our flashlights, grabbed the thermos of hot coffee I'd brewed the night before, and some pastries, then walked to the viewpoint. About 30 minutes later, the group arrived at the Bach Ma Post Office, where we could observe the sunrise. The sky before sunrise is always beautiful. The chirping of cicadas, the early birds, and the crowing of wild roosters blended together like a symphony of high and low notes against the backdrop of the sky, with its stunning colors of changing clouds. In the distance, from the sea, on the horizon, the sun, like a smoldering ember, began to rise. The whole group marveled at this beautiful moment and captured it with their cameras. Trang, a friend in the group, even took some really "magical" pictures. The early morning scene in the morning sunlight gradually unfolded, clear and peaceful. Hieu took the opportunity to tilt his head back and take a deep breath of the air swirling before him, letting the sun's rays shower his face with "nourishing" (as Hieu put it) sunlight, something that was no longer available in the city where he lived.

Not far from Kim Giao villa was a watchtower, from which one could observe the forest up close. In one corner, among the tall trees in those patches of forest, less than 1 km from where we were standing, I knew my large friends were having a meeting. Indeed, in the blink of an eye, I saw several of them swinging in the treetops. They were one of the groups of five-colored langurs currently residing in Bach Ma National Park.

With its distinctive five colors, the five-colored langur (also known as the brown-footed langur) is honored by the International Wildlife Protection Organization as the "queen" of primates residing in deep forests due to its extraordinary beauty. This species is classified as critically endangered in category IIB of the Vietnamese Red List, and is listed by the World Conservation Organization as a species requiring unconditional protection.

The five-colored langur does not live alone but usually lives in groups, in family units. They eat and sleep in trees. Their diet is also very diverse, consisting mostly of leaves and fruits. In Vietnam, this species accounts for 83% of the world's langur population, with nearly 600 individuals, mainly concentrated in the Son Tra Nature Reserve (Da Nang); in Bach Ma National Park alone, about 5-6 groups have been recorded with a density of 5-10 individuals per group.

After an exciting and friendly get-to-know-you session with the langurs, we returned to our rooms to pack and check out. The whole group will hike through the forest along the Five Lakes trail to the Rhododendron Waterfall – one of the park's famous beautiful spots – before meeting up with Viet on the main road.

The route along the Five Lakes pass through five lakes, all with crystal-clear, cool waters, perfect for swimming or bathing to cool off after conquering the challenging terrain of this route.

After more than an hour of walking, we reached the top of the Rhododendron Waterfall. The magnificent view from the top of the waterfall energized the whole group after the trek through the Five Lakes forest. From the top to the bottom, the waterfall is approximately 300 meters high, cascading down the cliff face like a white silk ribbon floating gracefully against the green backdrop of the forest, a truly spectacular sight. The waterfall is named after the rhododendron flowers that grow around it, blooming bright red every spring.

After drying off our sweat, Hieu and I took the opportunity to soak in the stream that had gathered into a small pool at the top of the waterfall. The two girls also took off their shoes and socks, soaking their feet in the cool stream to relax in the gently flowing water. It seemed as if everyone was immersing themselves in Bach Ma, allowing nature to offer them its freshest and purest offerings in the most natural way. And because of this, I believe that the love of nature also came in the purest form to my companions, just as I felt it when I first encountered Bach Ma more than 15 years ago.

Leaving the Rhododendron Waterfall, we walked for another 30 minutes to reach the main road. Viet's car was waiting there, slowly taking the group down the mountain, leaving behind the scenery that, after just over a day of wandering, had left many fond memories for those of us with souls easily captivated by nature—a journey I was fortunate enough to facilitate.

We left the Bạch Mã mountains, bringing back photographs capturing every beautiful moment in Bạch Mã, and leaving behind our footprints, softly treading on dry leaves, along with a soul that cherishes nature. Bạch Mã is where my love for wild nature began, and perhaps it will be yours too.