During a survey trip to new tourist destinations in Lai Chau, I happened to hear from the locals that about 37 km from Lai Chau city lies a village called Sin Suoi Ho, inhabited by the Hmong people. This village, located in Sin Suoi Ho commune, sits atop Son Bac May mountain at an altitude of 1,400 meters above sea level, enjoying cool air year-round. The locals call it Hoa Lan village – after the beautiful flower of the mountains and forests.

Turning left from the Lai Chau city administrative center, I followed a small, winding road barely wide enough for a 16-seater vehicle, passing through the San Than flower fields, where locals cultivate many varieties of roses for sale every spring. Continuing along that road to the Then Sin intersection, there was a very small right turn with a hidden sign, so I had to ask for directions several times before I could see the sign pointing to Sin Suoi Ho. From here, the most beautiful and challenging part of the journey to Sin Suoi Ho officially began.

From the Then Sin intersection, the vehicle began climbing towering slopes. The narrow road demanded skilled drivers familiar with mountainous terrain to conquer this approximately 19-kilometer stretch. After overcoming the almost vertical slopes, I was suddenly amazed by the beauty of the terraced rice fields, with the peak of Son Bac May mountain (meaning "white clouds covering the mountain peak") in the distance, fluffy white clouds swirling up in waves, illuminated by the brilliant sunlight. Overwhelmed and mesmerized, I continued driving as if through the white clouds, ascending higher and higher… After another sharp bend, I finally arrived at Sin Suoi Ho village.

Stepping out of the car, the cool air enveloped me, giving me a refreshing and easy-to-breathe feeling. The fatigue from the arduous mountain journey seemed to vanish without a trace. The first thing that caught my eye were the Hmong people with their bright, friendly smiles, as if to say, "Welcome to Sin Suoi Ho village!"

The road leading into the village was spotless, lined with pots of blooming orchids. I also didn't see any buffaloes or cows roaming freely, nor any cattle sheds or livestock pens – a fascinating and distinct difference compared to other Hmong villages I've visited.

The scenery along the road was beautifully decorated, very close to nature: road signs with letters made of rope and stone, baskets with the words "Please give me your trash"... Mesmerized by the beauty of this place, I felt like I had wandered into a "fairyland".

I arrived on the day of the local market, which is every Saturday. From afar, I could hear the sounds of the Hmong flute, the reed pipe, and the melodious singing, urging me to quicken my pace towards the market.

Sin Suoi Ho Market is bustling, selling agricultural products and traditional brocade fabrics characteristic of the Northwest mountains. Across the market is a simple, rustic stage where local people are performing cultural shows to celebrate the market day.

People from other villages joined in the festive market, immersing themselves in the dances, songs, and the clear, melodious sounds of flutes and pipes echoing through the mountains and forests.

Immersing myself in the highland market, I participated in milling rice in a stone mill, and browsed the goods in a variety of vibrant colors… Interestingly, this market didn't feature the Hmong people drinking or getting drunk; there were no places selling alcohol like in other highland markets. Hang Thi Su, a pretty Hmong girl, helped me learn more about the lives and changes of the people here.

Her village has 123 households. Previously, the village had many people addicted to opium, tobacco, cigarettes, and excessive drinking, leading to poverty and social problems. Village head Vang A Chinh and deputy head Hang A Xa spearheaded a campaign to persuade villagers to quit their addictions from 1995 to 2005. By 2014, Sin Suoi Ho village successfully eliminated all addictions with the "5 No's" rule: "No opium smoking, no tobacco smoking, no excessive drinking, no gambling, and no littering."

Once again, Mr. Chinh took the initiative to mobilize the villagers to work together to renovate all the land and houses in the village, repair the gate and the road leading to the village; encourage the villagers to offer homestay services; raise pigs and chickens, grow vegetables to provide food; and sell products made by the villagers themselves to tourists…

During a trip to the forest, he came across a very beautiful orchid. He brought it back, separated the branches, and cared for it, unexpectedly turning it into a product loved by tourists. Since then, orchids have been grown throughout the village by the local people, creating a significant source of income and alleviating poverty for the villagers. Currently, there are more than 20,000 orchid plants grown by the villagers here.

Bidding farewell to the beautiful village girl Hang Thi Su, I continued along the winding path to the end of the village, deep into the mountains and forests, where I had the opportunity to immerse myself in the pristine nature and fully enjoy the poetic beauty of this place.

There's a small, winding stream, somewhere in the distance the sound of birds singing, the Heart Waterfall nestled in a mountain range shaped like an arc, resembling a gateway to heaven… My soul feels cleansed, a sense of peace, comfort, and relaxation after days of busy and stressful work.

The locals here are very skillful at tourism, introducing visitors to many activities closely associated with the local way of life, such as traditional games like Tu Lu (spinning top), crossbow shooting, seesaw, pao throwing, and badminton…

Within the village grounds, there are many interesting places to visit, such as the water-powered rice mill, foot-pounding rice mill, sticky rice cake making area, linen weaving area, sunset viewing spot, display of giant survival tools, beeswax painting and indigo dyeing area, orchid garden, peach garden, etc.

In particular, the homestays around the village are not just places to stay but can be considered cultural landmarks that attract visitors from afar. The homestays are all built in the traditional rammed earth style of the Hmong people. The walls are made entirely of rammed earth, about 40 cm thick, without any supporting columns or posts, and the roofs are thatched, tiled, or simply thatched. These rammed earth houses keep the house warm in winter, cool in summer, and also protect against wild animals. The homestays are decorated quite tastefully, preserving the unique identity of the local people, making them especially suitable for travelers who want to learn about the customs and culture of the indigenous people.

Moreover, simple mountain dishes like wild mustard greens, boiled local pork with chili dipping sauce, and fried stream fish also captivated me, but the dish that truly impressed me the most was the steamed Mong chicken with pumpkin. A bright yellow pumpkin is skillfully hollowed out, its seeds removed, and then stuffed with a black chicken – a breed of chicken with sweet and delicious meat characteristic of the Mong people – before being steamed. After about an hour, both the pumpkin and the chicken are cooked. The sweetness of the chicken and pumpkin blend together, creating a sweet, rich, and fragrant flavor that is beyond description. If you have the chance to visit, don't forget to try the steamed Mong chicken with pumpkin; I believe you won't be disappointed.