On this land covered in volcanic dust, the harshness and hardship of the local people's struggle for survival seem inversely proportional to the seemingly tranquil beauty and the curiosity of travelers.

I arrived at Tan Son Nhat Airport at 6:00 AM on Saturday to complete immigration procedures, then traveled to Ngurah Rai International Airport (Bali) after a 3-hour flight, and continued waiting for a domestic flight to Surabaya. It took me a full day to travel to East Java, Indonesia.

It was past 10 pm when I got off the bus and arrived at the hotel. This was my first time visiting Indonesia's second-largest city, a tourist destination that attracts just as many visitors as Bali, thanks to its breathtaking natural scenery.

While Bali is famous for its picturesque beaches, boasting the distinctive turquoise color of the Indian Ocean, and some of the best resorts in Southeast Asia, East Java is the opposite, with its still-active volcanoes and grueling treks that demand high endurance from those who wish to conquer them.

When choosing this trip, I only imagined the scenery through pictures and lowered my expectations by 20-30%, but the fame of Mount Bromo has been around for a long time, so I chose it for my summer getaway largely out of curiosity.

That evening, I was too exhausted to go out and explore the Surabaya night market, so I decided to stay at the hotel and rest. The next morning, after a good night's sleep, the hotel reception informed me that there would be a parade celebrating Indonesia's National Day, even though the main holiday on August 17th was still almost a week away.

Indonesians celebrate National Day very early, pouring into the streets in groups dressed as Hindu guardian deities, wearing traditional clothing, with choirs, bands, and dancers following in processions. They sing, dance, and cheer, bringing a joyful and enthusiastic atmosphere to every street they pass through.

My spirits were much better by the second day thanks to that. The Indonesian people are very hospitable; when they see tourists curious about the festival, they always invite us to join the parade, dance, and take pictures.

Before I could fully appreciate the hospitality, I had to quickly move to the Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park to prepare for the real adventure. This trip added another 6 hours of driving time for the tour group.

Our vehicle took us 100km south of Surabaya. The further we went, the more noticeable the cold air became. This region is 1000 meters higher than Da Lat in Vietnam. Every afternoon, fog descends upon every corner, obscuring the peaks of the hills and mountains, no matter how clear the morning had been.

By the time I arrived at the homestay, it was already midday, giving me a short rest before visiting the Tengger village, a community closely associated with Mount Bromo. To this day, the 90,000-strong Tengger community still maintains the custom of offering sacrifices to Mount Bromo to pray for peace and good fortune in their lives.

Our visit to the village was hampered by rain, preventing our vehicle from entering the village itself. We could only stop at the fields where they were cultivating their crops. During this season, the Tengger people grow scallions and cabbage. Whether it's due to the unique soil conditions or not, the vegetables grown here are much larger than similar vegetables in Vietnam. Apparently, the crops here are grown seasonally, with different produce available each season.

I returned to the homestay at dusk. The sunrise tour of the Tengger Range would begin at 1 am.

At exactly 1 AM, I was woken up and put on a jeep to travel to Mount Penanjakan. If you're wondering, this is the best spot to get a complete view of the Tengger mountain range in general and Mount Bromo in particular.

What surprised me was the large number of tourists who had arrived early, some on organized tours, others traveling independently. This crowd only increased my anticipation for the spectacle I was about to witness. The path to the sunrise viewing spot was only 500 meters. A campfire had already been prepared, waiting for me and my friends.

Because it had rained in the afternoon, the clouds had gradually dispersed, making it possible to see the moon and stars. I heard that on nights with a hazy moon and clear skies, you can even see the Milky Way. On the night I visited, occasionally a few shooting stars would stealthily streak across the sky. Everyone was shouting and pointing to each other to admire this phenomenon that not everyone gets to see in their lifetime.

As dawn approached, the campsite became increasingly crowded. At this time, there were not only tourists but also local people. Unlike tourists who came for sightseeing, the locals came to watch the sunrise for spiritual reasons. They came to pray.

As dawn broke, everyone rose, choosing a spot where they could easily see. Some filmed, others took photos, some chatted animatedly, while others simply gazed in silence. I secretly noticed a few heads bowed, hands clasped, and a low murmur of prayer rising steadily.

The sun cast its first rays. The Tengger Mountains and Mount Bromo finally came into clear view. I was speechless and deeply moved. I understood why people would travel such a long distance to this barren land of volcanic dust just to catch a glimpse of this fleeting moment—the scene before me was more beautiful than anything I had ever imagined.

The Tengger mountain range features three volcanic peaks: Mount Batok, 2240 meters high and no longer active; Mount Bromo, 2329 meters high and still active; and further south, beyond the crater wall, the majestic Gunung Semeru, 3676 meters high, the highest active volcano in East Java.

White smoke billowed from the crater, resembling a fluffy cloud. Mist still clung to the base of the mountain like a gentle white silk ribbon. As the sun rose higher and the mist dissipated, the "Sea of ​​Sand" desert gradually appeared. This desert was formed by volcanic ash. Crossing this desert was the only way to reach the foot of Mount Bromo.

I left Penanjakan and continued for another 3.8km to reach the "Sea of ​​Sand" desert. There are two ways to cross the desert: on foot or by hiring a pack horse. The horses here are specially trained to carry tourists, costing around 200-250 Rupiah for a round trip.

From Penanjakan, the volcanoes appear like mere fingertips, but upon closer inspection, their grandeur can be overwhelming. That day, the sky was clear, with white clouds drifting lazily across the deep blue. Below, caravans of people and horses trudged across the black desert.

Reaching the foot of the mountain, I continued to see a throng of people, like ants, lining up the 250 steps leading to the crater rim. Before that, a few flower vendors approached me, offering flowers for prayer. Each bouquet, made from dried and dyed chrysanthemums, cost 30,000 Rupiah.

Even from the foot of the mountain, I could hear the volcano rumbling. It's known that there are periods when the volcano shakes violently but still doesn't erupt. At Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park, there's a team of experts monitoring the volcano; if it's in a safe state, tourists and locals are allowed to visit. If there are any signs of instability, the National Park absolutely prohibits outsiders from approaching the volcanic area.

The scene before me was like something out of a religious film, with people lining up for pilgrimage. Many tourists, especially those from the West, were incredibly excited about this tour. They had prepared a lot of filming and photography equipment, hoping to capture the most beautiful photos.

I've even encountered very elderly men with fancy cameras. They appeared to be photojournalists from foreign magazines or professional photographers. This partly explains why the people of East Java, and Indonesians in general, are so proud of their scenic beauty.

As they approached the crater rim, the growling grew louder. Inside the volcano, where white smoke formed a hazy mist until it became a fluffy white cloud, bouquets of flowers were thrown down one after another to ensure that the god Brahma had witnessed their prayers.

I stood on the rim of the volcano, letting my mind drift down to the black desert below, and wondered when I would ever be able to fully appreciate the beauty of this world.

As the sun reached its zenith, the crowds thinned out, and the jeep continued its journey across the black desert back to the homestay. This marked the end of the first stop on my adventure to East Java.

(to be continued...)