What does a wood-fired oven evoke in food lovers? A crispy pizza baked to Italian standards, or the pungent smoke rising from a rural kitchen in the evenings? Both associations are quite fitting, because in Saigon, there's a young man who actually uses a wood-fired oven to create Italian pizzas – a Vietnamese "countryside" version.

Pizza Ý Ông Kẹ is located in a small alley off Tran Nao Street, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City. The shop has only one sign: a wooden cutting board with the shop's name and a drawing of a pizza. There are no partitions or walls; the shop's most valuable asset is the wood-fired oven placed in the middle of the alley. There's no menu either, just two tables – the owner jokingly calls it a "street pizza shop." The shop's "decor" consists of scenes of daily life in the small alley, the shady wall of trees belonging to the neighbors.

Even with the address, you can't really enjoy Ông Kẹ Pizza by simply going in and ordering like at a regular restaurant. This is because Ông Kẹ's wood-fired oven only lights up once a week, the number of pizzas sold is limited, and you even need to order in advance. You only know the ingredients beforehand; the rest is entirely up to the owner's creativity and improvisation.

The owner of this unusual pizza shop is Tran Nguyen Nha, born in 1992, currently living in Ho Chi Minh City. His main job is as a chef at a restaurant in the city, so the time he can dedicate to his own pizza brand is limited.

“While working as a chef in a restaurant, I came into contact with a traditional Italian wood-fired pizza oven. Perhaps that wood-fired oven gave children who grew up in the countryside like me a familiar feeling of Vietnamese rural kitchens,” “Mr. Ke” shared about how he became interested in the wood-fired oven. “Initially, I just liked the wood-fired oven, I wasn’t very interested in pizza. It wasn’t until I came into contact with traditional Italian pizza that my thoughts and feelings began to change, gradually growing into a passion that I wanted to pursue.”

"Those who have eaten handmade pizza – pizzas made by hand, with dough kneaded and fermented for up to 24 hours before being baked in a wood-fired oven – will find it hard to go back to industrial pizza, which has a shortened production process and uses pre-packaged ingredients," Nha confidently shared.

The sign is handwritten, and the wood-fired oven was also built by the owner himself. Nha used to work as a construction laborer, so he taught himself how to build ovens for his pizza shop and his small family. The wood-fired oven currently used for baking is the first one he built.

Besides being a tool, the wood-fired oven is also a constant companion, enduring rain and sun alongside the owner. Open only one day a week, the opening hours of this "street pizza shop" depend on... the weather. In the dry season, they can light the fire in the evening, while in the rainy season, they sometimes have to light it in the morning.

“During those days in Saigon when the sun and rain are so unpredictable, I have to weave my own clothes, equipping myself with a kind of armor to wear while cooking. The jacket is woven from water coconut leaves; it looks rough like a hedgehog, but it’s so cool. Currently, the leaves are still fresh, and after this dry season, the leaves will dry and can be used through the rainy season as well.”

The Italians have done an excellent job creating dishes with a strong identity; they know how to skillfully use and showcase their country's ingredients, such as tomatoes, olives, and various cheeses, in their signature dishes. Naples' famous Pizza Margherita, with its simple ingredients – tomatoes, mozzarella cheese, fresh basil, salt, and olive oil – has gained worldwide fame precisely because of its simple yet sophisticated combination.

“That’s a clever idea worth learning from, and I want to do the same with Vietnamese ingredients on my pizza.” Nha hopes to create pizzas that are relatable and change the way his customers think about pizza. It’s hard to find such unique ingredients anywhere else as at this street pizza shop – from farm-grown ingredients like dried snakehead fish and dried pomfret… to more unusual ingredients like durian, which Ông Kẹ incorporates into his pizzas.

Pizza Ông Kẹ always offers vegetarian options. In particular, their "4 Cheese" pizza features four types of vegan cheese made from cashews and tofu feta cheese.

Each pizza, each rustic ingredient at Ông Kẹ, tells a story, reminding the owner of his dream of bringing the flavors of his homeland further afield. At this point, Nhã spontaneously recounted the story of the "jackfruit seeds": "When I was little, back in my hometown, my mother used to feed the whole family young jackfruit that was simmered and slow-cooked for many hours, and we kids would roast or boil the jackfruit seeds in ashes as a dessert whenever we felt like snacking." And so, Ông Kẹ's Jackfruit Pizza was born, made with young jackfruit pulp, fresh sausage, and jackfruit seeds cooked and made into a sauce.

"I was born and raised in Dong Nai, a place with rice paddies, mountains, and familiar ingredients that I've been exposed to since childhood. In the process of making pizza, memories of my childhood in the countryside have given me a lot of creative inspiration."

When asked about the meaning of the name "Happy Bogeyman," Nha explained that nearly 10 years ago, he worked as a construction laborer under the scorching sun, making him "pitch black" and resembling a bogeyman, so he gave himself the nickname "Bogeyman," and later named his pizza shop "Bogeyman Italian Pizza."

"In folklore, the Bogeyman is a fictional character often used by adults to scare children. Many of my customers are families with young children. I have a 'mission,' which is to be a Cheerful Bogeyman, to soothe the fears that adults have instilled in children - by making delicious pizza to bring them joy."

"I personally would love to further develop my own shop, but it depends on many factors, especially finances. I really want to continue pursuing my passion for food, particularly the skillful use of local ingredients. If I can build a more authentic 'shop,' it will probably remain small, intimate, and familiar, just like what I'm doing now."

"So, if you could only use three words to describe your pizza brand, what words would you use?"

"I think I only need one word."natureThat's enough."

"Peace amidst the hustle and bustle – that's how I felt when I visited Ông Kẹ Italian Pizza," shared Thùy Dương, a customer who has been to Ông Kẹ. "Italian food in a setting and with ingredients that couldn't be more Saigon-esque. Instead of relaxing in a restaurant or watching Netflix at home, try once nestled under a tree by the narrow roadside, enjoying a hot pizza in the cool afternoon air. The fun isn't just the crispy crust and unique flavor, but also watching the chef prepare the meal right next to you, occasionally wiping sweat from his brow by the crackling wood-fired oven. While you're eating, motorbikes whiz past in the alley! Tables borrow ketchup and chili sauce from each other to chat, even if they're not close friends. The chefs also join in the lively conversation while they work."

After hearing my description, you might wonder:Where can peace be found?Let me tell you: It's the human connection, the generosity and charm of each diner; the ceramic bird's nests scattered across the opposite wall, and all kinds of orchids and roses nestled along the roadside, just like the people sitting and eating. Come and try it out!