A unique egg coffee in Hanoi.

Once, when I was in Hanoi and asked what the most delicious and unique drink was, a foreign friend led me straight to a tiny little shop and immediately ordered two cups of rich, creamy egg coffee. My friend, Austin, laughed and said he found it really enjoyable to give a tour of Hanoi to a Vietnamese person.

Text:Bamboo

Photos: Alex, Khánh Lâm

Travel back in time in a "time machine".

I was extremely surprised when my friend walked straight into the backpack shop, with no sign or label indicating it was a café. It was a small space, even a little cramped with bags and other items piled high. Walking past the dark walls, up the rickety staircase that looked like it'd been there for hundreds of years, to the second floor, I felt like I'd stepped into a time machine, back in time. A time when people weren't rushing to meet office hours, but leisurely and elegantly waiting for each drop of coffee to fall through the filter.

To be honest, although I knew about Café Đinh through food magazines, without directions, it would have taken me quite a while to find this hidden café. The café's interior is painted in a distinctive French-era yellow, subtly veiled by the smoke from incense sticks. From the tables and chairs, the black and white photo frames, to the coffee brewing equipment and condensed milk cans… everything exudes a beautiful, nostalgic charm.

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As a Saigonese, I'm used to the hustle and bustle of cafes, groups of friends chatting, laughing, and taking pictures... So I was surprised to find that Dinh's house remained so quiet despite dozens of guests sitting close together. Some were puffing on cigarettes thoughtfully, others were diligently writing, some were relaxing and sipping coffee, and even those who spoke to each other lowered their voices, whispering in quiet contemplation.

Coffee + Eggs = A recipe for peaceful days during the changing seasons

Egg coffee must be drunk hot, right from the moment it's served. If it cools down, it loses its deliciousness, and you won't be able to appreciate the rich, creamy flavor of the whipped egg layer. Making egg coffee isn't actually difficult; basically, you just need to whisk the egg yolks until fluffy and fragrant like a cake, then pour them into a cup of hot black coffee, and top with a layer of whipped egg whites mixed with sugar. Each family has their own little secret to making their signature egg coffee. Some add cocoa powder to the egg mixture, others choose honey… Instead of stirring, I prefer to scoop it up spoonful by spoonful to easily enjoy all three layers at once. The fragrant, sweet egg layer, like a layer of flan, is light and fluffy like cappuccino foam, combined with the traditional bitter black coffee from Robusta beans, making me feel like I'm enjoying a melody. It's easy to understand why no one would dare disturb this peaceful space filled with the aroma of coffee.

Hanoians love drinking egg coffee most in the cold season, when the autumn winds blow, or during winter. Partly because hot egg coffee is more suitable in cold weather. Partly because the eggs taste better when whisked, giving them a richer, creamier flavor in cold weather. Just like cow's milk from highland cows is often richer and has a thicker cream layer, animals tend to store more fat and nutrients in cold weather.

Now I understand why many people brought the "egg coffee concept" to Saigon. But it can't retain the distinctive, delicious flavor and unique atmosphere of enjoying it like in Hanoi. This autumn, have you found your favorite place to enjoy egg coffee yet?

Here are some places to enjoy classic egg coffee in Hanoi: