Hanoi cuisine in its alleyways

Hanoi boasts many fascinating cultural aspects that not everyone has had the chance to discover. In contrast to the bustling streets, there are still beautiful places hidden deep within the city's alleys and narrow streets. Particularly noteworthy is Hanoi's culinary scene, nestled within these small lanes and alleyways – a unique characteristic rarely found elsewhere.

These eateries, serving simple, affordable food, are often tucked away deep within narrow alleys, yet they still attract a steady stream of customers. That's why food connoisseurs in Hanoi often advise each other that if you want to eat well, you have to go into the alleys.

Pho served in a bowl at Hang Trong

Previously, pho served in bowls was sold right at the intersection of Hang Trong Street. Every rush hour, the pho stall would be packed with customers. People would line up to order, carrying their own bowls of hot pho, quickly finding an empty seat to enjoy. Because there were no tables, they ate with their hands, scooping and savoring the dish. That's why it became known as "Hang Trong pho served in bowls."

Phở bưng Hàng Trống do không có bàn nên khi ăn, họ cứ tay bưng, tay gắp. — Because there are no tables at Hang Trong pho restaurant, customers eat by holding the bowls of pho in their hands and using chopsticks to scoop the broth.

Since the city implemented a sidewalk clearing campaign, the pho restaurant has moved indoors. To find this once-famous pho restaurant, diners have to walk down a narrow alley, barely wide enough for two people to pass each other, about 6-7 meters deep. Then, following the signs, they go up to the second floor via an old spiral staircase. The restaurant's space is only about 10 square meters.²Located on the second floor of an old townhouse, the cafe occupies a corner of the owner's living room, furnished with 4-5 plastic tables. The third-floor balcony is 3-4 meters wide.²With insufficient seating, diners still maintain the habit of sitting on the sidewalk when eating pho.

The most distinctive feature of this bowl of pho is its clear, fragrant broth, completely free of any strong meat or bone odor. The restaurant only sells one type of pho: cooked beef, with tender, thinly sliced pieces of beef that are perfectly cooked, with a mix of fat and lean meat. The pho here is light and not overly flavorful, but just right. On cool autumn or early winter days in Hanoi, the pho restaurant attracts a large number of customers during rush hour.

Address: Alley 8, Hang Trong Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi

Opening hours: 3 PM to 8 PM

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Chicken pho with dipping sauce at Nha Chung restaurant.

Nestled deep within a small alley on Nha Chung Street, this restaurant has been open for over 35 years, and its signature dish is the chicken pho with dipping sauce. Unlike regular pho, the noodles are cut into rectangular pieces, about 3-4 cm thick. The chicken is boiled until cooked and beautifully presented on a plate. The broth, or rather the dipping sauce and dried bamboo shoot soup, is seasoned perfectly, with a delightful sweet and sour flavor. The pho with dipping sauce is served with the noodles separated and rolled together with the chicken and vegetables, then dipped into the unique sauce.

“Phở mà lại chấm” khiến cho nhiều người tò mò và không ngần ngại quyết định vào quán thử một lần. — "Pho with dipping sauce" piqued the curiosity of many, prompting them to readily decide to try the restaurant at least once.

"Pho with dipping sauce" has piqued the curiosity of many, prompting them to readily decide to try the restaurant at least once. As a result, Nha Chung's chicken pho with dipping sauce restaurant is always packed with customers.

Address: Alley 40, Nha Chung Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi

Opening hours: 7am to 2pm (except Sundays)

Nhan's duck noodle soup in Trung Yen alley

Trung Yen is one of the must-mention "culinary alleys" on the culinary map of Hanoi's Old Quarter. In this narrow alley, where two motorbikes have to carefully maneuver to avoid each other, famous eateries serve fish noodle soup, mixed vermicelli with squid, and Nhan's duck noodle soup. Located at the end of the alley, and also the busiest of all the stalls here, is Nhan's duck noodle soup.

Nhàn's duck noodle stall is located under a wide awning, approximately 7 meters in size.²This is a beverage shop. As one of the best duck noodle soup restaurants in Hanoi, it's no surprise that you'll have to patiently queue to enjoy a bowl at Nhàn. The owner pays meticulous attention to every detail of the dish. From the fragrant broth simmered with duck bones and dried mushrooms, to the succulent, tender, and sweet duck meat. The accompanying bamboo shoots are also carefully simmered dried bamboo shoots, and the fresh meatballs are both chewy and crispy.

Nằm ở phía cuối ngõ Trung Yên và cũng là quán đông khách nhất trong tất cả các hàng quán ở đây chính là bún ngan Nhàn. — Located at the end of Trung Yen alley and also the busiest of all the eateries here, is Nhan's duck noodle soup restaurant.

Address: Trung Yen Alley, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi

Opening hours: 9 AM to 3 PM

Bun Cha Hang Quat

In the heart of the Old Quarter, a bun cha (grilled pork with vermicelli) stall is nestled in a small alleyway, only 1 meter wide and 30 meters deep, on Hang Quat Street. At the entrance to the alley, there's only a simple sign; few people would notice it unless they paid close attention.

The Bun Cha Hang Quat restaurant has been around for 25 years, serving only lunch from 10 am to 2 pm. At opening hours, the restaurant is bustling with customers, forming long queues from one end of the alley to the other. At the entrance is the cooking area with tables displaying ingredients, a meat grill, a spring roll frying area, and a tea stall. Customers can find tables inside the restaurant and in the courtyard at the end of the alley. What makes this Bun Cha restaurant so popular for so long is its authentic Hanoi flavor.