Bhutan, where the world stands still at an altitude of 5,500m.

Our local guide, Ugyen, greeted us in his traditional attire.ghoThe traditional attire for Bhutanese men is a knee-length tunic with a belt tucked into the waistband, resembling the robes of Japanese samurai. This is the national costume of Bhutan and is also mandatory when visiting temples or workplaces.

On our way to the capital Thimphu, we passed by an ancient bridge made entirely of iron chains from the 14th century. This is believed to be one of 108 bridges built by the sage Thangtong Gyalpo throughout Tibet and Bhutan, intended to free people from relying on boats when crossing rivers. Along the iron bridge, locals hung many colorful flags – blue, white, red, green, and yellow – symbolizing space, wind, fire, water, and earth. These flags are called...lungta, that is, the wind horse. The Bhutanese believe that whenever the wind blows, the mantras will be carried by the wind, spreading throughout the world and bringing benefit to all living beings.

The Colors of Thimphu

Upon arriving in Thimphu, we went to our hotel for lunch. The hotel was located right next to the Memorial Chorten, a memorial to the third king of Bhutan. From the window, I could see people circumambulating the stupa clockwise, some carrying small prayer wheels and spinning them as they walked. Bhutanese people are very devout, Ugyen said, adding that some elderly people spend the whole day circumambulating the stupa to accumulate good karma for the afterlife. If you visit the Memorial Chorten, remember to try pushing the large prayer wheels in the building to the left of the stupa. Ugyen said that a spin of a large prayer wheel brings 1,000 times more blessings than a small one.

The houses in Thimphu are quite modern, with many bustling shops and restaurants catering to both locals and tourists. However, the goods in the general stores, often bearing the sign "General store," are rather limited, offering only a few local and Indian brands, with not many choices. Bhutanese people eat chili peppers like vegetables. Chili peppers are sold in large baskets in the market, in a variety of colors from green to bright red. Furthermore, Bhutanese people do not slaughter their own animals for meat, so there are only three butcher shops in all of Thimphu, importing meat from India or run by non-Buddhist butchers.

In the afternoon, we visited the weekend market in Thimphu. In other cities, markets are only held on Saturdays and Sundays, but Thimphu also has a market on Fridays. The market sells a wide variety of Bhutanese fruits and vegetables, as well as those imported from India. Next to the market is a large, covered bridge; crossing the bridge leads to another market selling clothes, paintings, religious artifacts, etc., mostly imported from India, China, or Nepal. Bhutanese souvenirs include textiles, scarves, and bags, but generally they are quite similar to those in Vietnam.

Monastery of Ten Thousand Buddhas

Almost everywhere in Thimphu, you can see the Great Buddha (Buddha Dordenma) seated on a diamond pedestal on a hill south of the city. This 51.5-meter-tall statue, made of gilded bronze, depicts the seated Buddha Shakyamuni in the lotus position, eyes slightly closed, hands in the earth-touching mudra. Inside this colossal statue is a 17-story monastery containing over 100,000 smaller gilded bronze Buddha statues. Buddha Dordenma was inaugurated in 2015, coinciding with the 60th birthday of the fourth King of Bhutan. However, it is believed that Guru Padmasambhava, who brought Tantric Buddhism to Tibet and then to Bhutan, predicted its construction as early as the 8th century. Many visitors from India, China, and other countries come to worship here, some even bringing meditation cushions to sit inside the Great Buddha.

Upon entering the inner sanctuary, Ugyen faced a throne opposite the main Buddha statue, above which rested an image of a monk. He clasped his hands together, placing them successively on his forehead, lips, and chest, then bowed three times. Next, he turned to the Buddha statue and repeated the ritual. A lama, holding a tall-spouted vessel adorned with peacock feathers, poured a pale yellow liquid into Ugyen's palm. He took a small sip and then dabbed the rest on his head. The monk in the image was Je Khenpo, the spiritual leader of Bhutan, overseeing religious affairs alongside the king's secular duties. He served as a spiritual bridge between the people and the Buddha. All Buddhists, except for high-ranking monks, bowed to his image before bowing to the Buddha statue.

Beyond the Great Buddha statue lies Thimphu Dzong, a unique architectural style of Bhutan, combining elements of a fortress and a monastery. Each Dzong houses government offices, a monastery, and living quarters for the clergy. Traditionally, each Dzong is built without a specific design plan, under the guidance of a senior lama. Therefore, each Dzong is a unique architectural masterpiece. Remarkably, no nails were used in construction to secure the components. While Bhutanese people are required to wear traditional clothing when entering a Dzong, foreign visitors only need to wear long trousers and a shirt with sleeves. Don't miss the stunning murals and mandalas inside; they represent a treasure trove of Bhutanese art.

Changlimithang Archery Range

Archery is not only a favorite sport of the people of Bhutan, but also a community activity that unites many different social classes. From 1984 to 2008, Bhutan participated in the Olympic Games with only this one sport. The target is a thin wooden board, 91 cm high and 28 cm wide, located about 145 feet from the archer. Players can use traditional bows and arrows, or modern American-style bows with higher accuracy. Whenever an archer hits the bullseye, according to tradition, teammates will perform a short dance and sing a celebratory song. Conversely, if they miss, the opposing team will make sarcastic remarks.

At first glance, the Bhutanese archers seem to draw their bows effortlessly, even holding the bowstring for about 10 seconds to aim carefully before releasing it. However, when we borrowed a bow to try, almost no one could pull it! This sport requires not only sharp eyesight but also strong hands. Besides archery, the Bhutanese also enjoy darts. We'll get to try this sport the following day at a farm in Paro.

Mist in the ancient capital of Punakha

Waking up each morning in Bhutan is a truly pristine and beautiful experience. Outside the hotel window, swirling clouds blanket the verdant mountain peaks in white. Soft rays of sunlight stretch across the lush, vibrant rice terraces.

We packed our bags and left Thimphu for the former capital, Punakha. Along the way, the car stopped at Tango Monastery, which in the local language means "horse head," near Mount Cheri. Legend says that the deity Hayagriva, a horse-headed incarnation of Avalokiteshvara, once appeared at this monastery. It's a place of study for monks in Bhutan, with a six-year "university" program and a nine-year "postgraduate" program. After completion, the monks move to the nearby Cheri Monastery for a retreat of three years, three months, and three days, coinciding with the period of Guru Padmasambhava's retreat at Tiger's Nest, according to historical accounts. This is also the place of study for someone considered to be the reincarnation of Tenzin Rabgye, the official who presided over the construction of Tiger's Nest in the 17th century. Currently, the reincarnation of Tenzin Rabgye is undergoing a three-year retreat, and according to Ugyen, after emerging from retreat, he may become the next spiritual leader of Bhutan, or choose a different path.

From the foot of the mountain, it takes about an hour to climb to Tango Monastery. The path is paved with clean stones, built by the monks themselves during their free time on weekends. Every so often, we come across wooden plaques inscribed with the Buddha's teachings on nature, life, and humanity. Whenever we get tired, climbers can stop to rest and reflect on these teachings.

After visiting Tango Monastery, the group set off south through the Thimphu Valley, stopping at Dochula Pass before reaching the ancient capital of Punakha. Along the way, we crossed a rice paddy to reach Chimi Lhakhang Temple, believed to be the place where the eccentric monk Drukpa Kunley sealed away a female demon, and also a famous temple for praying for children. This eccentric monk lived in the 16th century and had a profound influence on the culture of the Punakha region. According to legend, the takin, the national symbol of Bhutan, was also created by Drukpa Kunley, by combining the bones of a cow and a goat to create an animal with the head of a goat and the body of a cow.

If you ask me, "Is Bhutan a paradise on earth?", the answer is probably no. The people of Bhutan still struggle with daily necessities like food and clothing. Young Bhutanese people are still captivated by the world of Bollywood stars and the liberal, free-spirited ideals of the West. But if you're looking for simple happiness, try visiting Bhutan, a country straight out of a fairy tale, where history blends with legend, where reincarnated lamas wield power equal to that of high-ranking officials, and where people diligently hang lungta prayer flags, hoping the wisdom of the five Buddhas' teachings will spread throughout the world.

Additional information:

- TimeThe best time to visit Bhutan is from March to May (summer) and from September to November (autumn). In September and October, the temperature in Thimphu is usually around 10-20 degrees Celsius, not too cold.

- Tourism policy:The Bhutanese government mandates that all visitors to Bhutan must book a tour through a government-licensed travel agency. The agency will handle everything for you, from visas and flights to hotel reservations. See the list of licensed agencies on the website:www.tourism.gov.bt/plan/tour-operators

ButTrip:Currently, there are no direct flights from Vietnam to Bhutan. Tour groups usually have to fly via Bangkok, then transit in Kolkata before arriving in Paro (Bhutan).

ButExperience:If you visit the ancient capital of Punakha, don't forget to sign up for a rafting trip on the Mo Chhu River. The river is quite shallow and calm, making it an unforgettable experience and a highlight amidst the temple visits, adding a touch of excitement to your trip.

ButSkin:Try wearing traditional Bhutanese clothing at least once.ghofor men,kira(For women). You can ask to borrow or rent one from your travel agent to look better in photos!

ButNote:Remember to bring cold, cough, and motion sickness medicine, as it's difficult to find Western medicine in Bhutan. And bring plenty of instant noodles, in case you're not used to the local cuisine. Unlike other tours, Bhutan tours completely exclude meals with Vietnamese or Chinese flavors.

Text and photos: Dang Trinh

The Thanh