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The name "coffee brewed with a cloth filter" (also known as "sock coffee" or "sock coffee") actually originates from the distinctive way coffee was brewed in old Saigon. Instead of using a filter, coffee powder was placed in a small cloth bag shaped like a small sieve, then dipped into boiling water and continuously brewed over a charcoal stove. Once the coffee had steeped, it was poured into a cup for the customer.
Vietnamese filter coffee therefore has a distinctive and unmistakable flavor. It's fragrant with the aroma of pure coffee, with a sweet, smooth aftertaste and a hint of creaminess from the milk. Although only a few old filter coffee shops remain, this coffee culture endures, nestled in the heart of bustling Saigon.
A COFFEE SHOP THAT TRAVELS THROUGH TIME
If you visit Phan Dinh Phung Street in Phu Nhuan District, it's not difficult to spot long lines of people waiting in alley 330. "Coffee Filter" is a frequent hangout for many people: from the elderly to young adults and university students; from smartly dressed office workers to ordinary laborers...
Vietnamese filter coffee is a frequent hangout spot for many people.
While many trendy, upscale cafes have sprung up all over vibrant Saigon, Phan Dinh Phung Filter Coffee stands proudly in the heart of the city, witnessing countless changes over time. Initially, the cafe was just a pushcart owned by Ms. Pham Ngoc Tuyet's parents. Later, this coffee "brand" was continued by Ms. Tuyet and her husband, Mr. Dang Tran Con (also known as Uncle Ba).
For over 70 years, apart from the Covid-19 lockdown, Cà Phê Vợt (a traditional Vietnamese coffee shop) has never taken a day off. The coffee shop only closes for 10 minutes on the evening of the 30th of the lunar month to celebrate New Year's Eve. "While we're performing the New Year's Eve ritual, customers are still sitting outside waiting by the slightly ajar door. After the ritual is over and someone is the first visitor of the new year, the door opens again for business," Mr. Côn confided.
Ms. Pham Ngoc Tuyet still regularly makes coffee every afternoon.
"In the 1990s, filter coffee seemed to replace drip coffee, becoming the preferred style of coffee for many customers. Coffee Shops also updated to keep up with the trend, selling filter coffee to cater to customers, but most Coffee Shop customers still preferred coffee brewed with a filter," shared Mr. Quy (son of Mr. Con).
The interior of the cafe.
The appeal lies not only in its long history but also in the family's secret traditional method of brewing filter coffee. Therefore, the uniquely delicious flavor has never changed, retaining many old customers and attracting many new ones. "Many regular customers, after many years away, return and order a cup of coffee, exclaiming: 'Wow, after all these years, the coffee is still the same!'" Mr. Côn shared.
MORE THAN JUST A COFFEE SHOP!
Older generations frequent Coffee Shops as a kind of "hard-to-break" habit, enjoying this popular beverage with its familiar, distinctive flavor. Younger people, however, are more interested in the feeling of sitting at a Coffee Shop, watching the passersby and finding peace amidst the hustle and bustle of Saigon.
Located right at the entrance of alley 330 on Phan Dinh Phung Street, the cafe has a rather small space and a simple layout, preserving the old-fashioned charm mixed with a touch of modern Saigon.
The area in front of the Vietnamese filter coffee shop.
Good, affordable coffee is one thing, but the atmosphere is another reason why young people frequent the place. As someone who loves vintage styles, Huy (21 years old, Gia Lai) chooses Vợt as his favorite spot to relax. The third-year university student says: "On average, I visit Vợt Coffee 3-4 times a week. I've been a regular at this place for three years, so I just go in, pay, and the owners know exactly what drink I want to order."
Huy often comes here alone to read.
"Want to go to Vợt?" is a question Ri Hứa (1993, Da Nang) is frequently asked by his friends. "For me, Vợt isn't just an ordinary coffee shop, but a 'place' where I feel relaxed. I've been a loyal customer of Vợt for the past 9 years, not because of the coffee brewed with a filter, but because of the person who makes it, and because of the comfortable feeling of sitting on the familiar, simple red plastic chair," he confided.
Perhaps it's not just Huy or Ri Hứa, but many others also seek refuge at Cà Phê Vợt (Phan Đình Phùng) during their hectic days. Because the cafe doesn't have a fixed opening or closing time, the door is always open, making it a familiar spot for conversations that last all night long.
The area surrounding the Vietnamese filter coffee shop.
