Italy's intangible heritage

"A luxury treat" of childhood

As a lifelong food lover, I still remember the excitement I felt when my parents took me to Italian restaurants in Hanoi when I was a 6 or 7-year-old girl. Back then, in the late 1990s, going to an Italian restaurant meant ordering only the traditional "pizza." Pizza was considered a luxury, so of course you'd order the beef pizza; nobody ate vegetarian pizza. It felt so good to eat pizza because it was a Western dish, yet we could share it with family like Vietnamese rice, each person getting a slice – it felt so intimate and simple. That's why I love pizza, not only because it's delicious and easy to eat, but also because it always maintains its humble charm, no matter how fancy the restaurant.

Later, when I had the chance to live in Italy, I truly understood the "down-to-earth" nature of pizza, and the more down-to-earth it is, the better it tastes, just like Vietnamese street food. Italians can eat pizza anywhere; buying one or two slices at a pizza stand and eating it right there is a familiar sight in this country. Pizza restaurants are everywhere, but they are mostly as simple as Hanoi's pho restaurants. But if you want to eat the best pizza in Italy, or even the best in the world, you must go to the port city of Naples. Everyone knows pizza is a traditional Italian dish, but few know that its birthplace is Naples. The pizza as we know it today originated in Naples in the 18th and 19th centuries and was a daily food for working people at that time.

The art of making authentic pizza.

Angela, my Italian best friend, also has her paternal grandparents in Naples. When she learned I was planning to take my parents there just for pizza, she immediately recommended our long-standing favorite, L'Antica Pizzeria Da Michele, which has been open since 1906. Knowing it's very popular and doesn't accept reservations, my parents and I decided to go right when it opened at 11 am. We arrived a little after 11 am, but the place was almost full. Luckily, we got a table right away and didn't have to wait at all. The lively atmosphere, the blazing fire in the traditional wood-fired oven, and the tireless dough kneading by the bakers brought back scenes from the movie "Eat, Pray, Love," starring Julia Roberts. What stimulated our taste buds the most was the enticing aroma of the freshly baked pizzas, making us incredibly excited about enjoying authentic pizza.

At L'Antica Pizzeria Da Michele, there are only two types of pizza: marinara and margherita. Marinara's ingredients include tomato sauce, oregano, and garlic, while margherita is made with San Marzano tomatoes, mozzarella cheese, and fresh basil. We tried both and were more impressed with the margherita pizza. Legend has it that the name Margherita comes from Queen Margherita of Savoy, who loved this pizza during her visit to Naples in 1889.

The unforgettable flavor of Margherita pizza comes from the smoky, slightly burnt crust, the melted cheese, and the aromatic taste of tomatoes grown in volcanic soil. The ingredients are simple, but each is carefully selected, from the flour to the tomatoes.

Another equally important secret is the skill and heart of the baker. In 2017, the art of pizza-making by Neapolitan "pizzaiuoli" (meaning pizza makers) was recognized by UNESCO as an intangible cultural heritage because it is an integral part of Italian culinary history and culture. Ancient pizza recipes are passed down from generation to generation, mostly to family members, by master bakers with perfected techniques. The image of a baker enthusiastically spinning the crust in their strong hands is a quintessential Italian performance. Just watching them, you can feel their love for pizza. Fresh ingredients, intricate baking techniques, and the passion of the "pizzaiuoli" are the elements that create the legendary Margherita pizza.

Neapolitan's Pizza Margherita taught me one thing: innovation is temporary, classic is eternal. After tasting many different pizzas, I still love the traditional flavor of Pizza Margherita the most and almost exclusively eat this kind. As for the minced beef pizza of my childhood, it's not Italian at all because I've never seen one in Italy. To date, the simple yet delicious Pizza Margherita has existed for over 100 years, and with its recognition as an intangible cultural heritage of humanity, I believe its flavor will endure for another 100 years. And what better representation of the Italian national spirit than a pizza in the colors of the Italian flag: green, white, and red?

Additional information

The most convenient way to travel from Rome to Naples is by direct train from Roma Termini station to Naples Centrale station. It's easily a day trip, taking only about 1 hour and 15 minutes to reach Naples. Book your tickets online at www.trenitalia.com/ or www.italotreno.it – the earlier you book, the cheaper it will be.

Popular attractions in Naples include the Royal Palace, the Archaeological Museum, Plebiscito Square, Nuovo Castle, Ovo Castle, and the Cappella Sansevero Museum.

Besides L'Antica Pizzeria Da Michele, Naples has many other great pizza places such as Starita, Gorizia 1916, and Gino e Toto Sorbillo.

- Naples is not a very safe city. When visiting Naples, people should carry securely fastened bags and avoid wearing watches or jewelry to prevent theft.

- If you have plenty of time in Naples, try taking a tour to climb Mount Vesuvius, Europe's only active volcano. It will be a one-of-a-kind experience for adventure seekers.

A catastrophic eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD buried the ancient cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Today, the ruins of Pompeii are a must-see attraction in Italy. Pompeii is only about 25 km from Naples, so it's possible to visit Pompeii in a day trip from Naples.

Tran Dan Vy