Riga - Berlin, Latvia

Text and photos:Nguyen Chi Linh

As evening approached, the golden autumn sun filtered through the narrow streets, the ancient capital of Riga in Latvia awakened after a rainy morning. The distinctive red bricks, characteristic of German Art Nouveau architecture, seemed to dance vibrantly in the sunlight. I wandered through the narrow, moss-covered cobblestone alleys, admiring the surviving structures amidst the warm, resonant sound of St. Peter's Church bells.

Riga today is divided into two areas: the New Town and the Old Town, each with its own unique architectural charm. Like many visitors, as evening falls and the golden sunlight bathes the streets, I enjoy strolling through the narrow, seemingly impossibly narrow alleys of the Old Town, admiring the Renaissance, Gothic, and Baroque architectural structures piled upon each other by the ebb and flow of history.

Cultural layers within an architecture

The Hanseatic League, or Hanseatic League, was founded in 1159 in Lübeck, Germany, with the common goal of representing economic interests in maritime affairs, especially with regard to foreign countries. By the 14th century, the Hanseatic League had expanded, linking approximately 200 cities and seaports in Northern Europe and the Baltic Sea region. Beyond the economic sphere, the Hanseatic League extended into politics and culture. Andris, a resident of Riga, shared the city's history with me as we chatted in the central square.

Riga was founded in 1201 by Father Albert and served as the leading city of the western Baltic region within the Hanseatic League, as well as a central hub for the Crusaders in the North. Because Albert was originally from northern Germany, Riga retained a distinct "Brick Gothic" architectural style from its inception. The characteristic feature of the city is the rectangular, deep red bricks used in the buildings in the city center.

Brick Gothic is a general term for the architectural style that flourished from the 12th to the 16th centuries in cities of Northern Europe and other cities around the Baltic Sea, replacing the Romanesque style which had become less popular. By the 16th century, Brick Gothic was replaced by Renaissance architecture. Still favored, later architectural works incorporated elements of Brick Gothic into other styles.

Following Andris's lead, I gazed at the Blackheads house, situated right in the central square of the old town. The red bricks seemed to dance and sing in the golden rays of the setting sun. The house not only boasts characteristic "Brick Gothic" architecture but also contains the exquisite carvings of Renaissance architecture. Once a major commercial center of Riga, it was built in the 14th century by a wealthy German lady. Despite suffering significant damage from subsequent wars, the Riga authorities have endeavored to restore Blackheads to preserve the historical site.

“I gazed at the Blackheads House, situated right in the center square of the old town. The red bricks seemed to dance and sing in the golden rays of the setting sun.”

Following Andris, I weaved through several narrow alleys to reach St. Peter's Church, a place where different cultural layers intertwine. The walls still feature the deep red bricks of Brick Gothic architecture, but the stone sculptures on those walls are characteristic of Gothic, Romanesque, and Baroque styles that were popular in the past. Andris explained that the church was built to honor Saint Peter, one of the twelve believers who protected the city. The original architecture was predominantly Gothic and Brick Gothic. However, subsequent wars with the Germans, Poles, and Russians caused considerable damage. Each restoration involved building a new structure on top of the old one. In front of the church, there is still a statue of Father Albert, the founder of the city. I also took the opportunity to touch the bronze piglet with its piglets, positioned diagonally to the right of the church. For people in Northern Europe or the cities along the Baltic coast, pigs are a symbol of prosperity and happiness.

An open-air museum dedicated to Art Nouveau architecture.

Like other cities in the Northern Hemisphere, the morning sky was filled with low, overlapping clouds. Riga was the greenest of the former Eastern European cities along the Baltic Sea. The lakes in the parks were like giant mirrors reflecting the sky and the land. The birch and maple trees had changed color from yellow to deep red in late autumn.

I wandered down Maza Pils to visit the "Three Brothers" house, one of the terraced houses built in Riga in the 15th century with a rather unique architecture that has been preserved to this day. The first house, located at number 17, was built around 1470 and is the oldest, featuring Gothic architecture. House number 19, built in 1646, features Dutch Manerism, which was popular in 1520. House number 21, built at the end of the 16th century, is distinctly Baroque. They perfectly illustrate the prevailing European architectural styles from the 15th to the 17th centuries.

According to Andris, Riga's history is a history of wars, and after each war, the city's architecture changed. The new emerged, superimposed on the old, and they connected to form layers of diverse cultures. I wandered through the streets of Audeju, Vaļņu, Smilsu (in the old town) and Terbatas, Brivibas, Elizabetes, and Strelnieku (in the new town) to admire the houses designed in Art Nouveau style, what is known as an open-air "museum" of Art Nouveau architecture in Riga. UNESCO recognizes Riga as a World Heritage Site, including aspects of Art Nouveau art. All the beautiful houses on these streets were for the wealthiest people in Riga or merchants from other countries who came to live here (Strelnieku Street is also known as the Embassy Street).

UNESCO recognizes Riga as a World Heritage site, including aspects of Art Nouveau art.

In German, "Art Nouveau" means "young style," and this architectural style originated in Munich, Germany, in the late 1890s, then spread throughout Europe and Japan. Sometimes "Art Nouveau" is also called "Art Nouveau" because the British used the French word "Nouveau," meaning "new art."

The history of Art Nouveau is divided into two periods: the early 1900s, when Art Nouveau leaned towards naturalistic art with motifs of flowers and landscapes. The period after the 1950s saw Art Nouveau no longer limited to specific artistic themes; it was widely applied to house construction and interior architecture. The pinnacle of Art Nouveau during this period was the "metal curves" architecture in the style of Henry van de Velde or Victor Horta, applied to many streets in Brussels, Belgium. Depending on the different schools and interpretations of Art Nouveau, each country has different names for it, although fundamentally based on the Art Nouveau style originating from Germany, such as: Japanese Art, Ukiyo e prints, Art and Crafts, Sezessionstil, Stile Floreale, Modernismo…

Originally founded by the Germans, Riga quickly absorbed German Art Nouveau. I wandered through the streets, captivated by the creative "new art" buildings, with sculptures on the walls or wooden beams. I remember someone saying that if you want to see an open-air museum of architecture, go to Rome, Paris, or Berlin. And as I walked along Strelnieku, I thought to myself, Riga is in no way inferior to any ancient European city in terms of architectural artistry.

Additional information:

Latvia became a full member of the European Union in 2007, so if you have a European visa or a Schengen visa, you can visit Riga.

+ Turkish Airlines operates direct flights from Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi to Riga. However, airlines have signed transport agreements, so tourists can also travel to Riga from Frankfurt (transported by Lufthansa) or Paris (transported by Air France).

Prior to 2014, Latvia used its own currency, the Latu. Since 2014, Latvia has used the European common currency, the Euro.

Transportation options for sightseeing in Riga: buses and the metro (commonly known as Satiksme).

+ Other attractions in Riga include: the City Hall, the Latvian History Museum, St. John's Church, the Ceramics Museum, Riga Castle, the Natural History Museum, the Foreign Art Museum, the Freedom Monument…

Riga is well-known for its fashion items made from leather and wool, as well as kitchenware. Shopping centers offering good prices include Taste Latvia, Konventa Seta, Central Market, Galerija Istaba, and Stock Mann. Opening hours are from 10:00 AM to 9:00 PM.

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