What's unusual about northern Spain?

12/12/2012

Although I only spent a few hours in the city of Burgos and the town of Aranda de Duero in northern Spain, this brief visit left me with a lasting impression of a Spain rich in tradition and remarkable.

Text and photos:Le Thu Giang

BURGOS – A SANCTUARY OF ANCIENT CHURCHES

Located nearly 250km from Madrid, Burgos captivates countless visitors with the enchanting beauty of its temples, cathedrals, historical bridges, old town districts, unique shops, and distinctive lifestyle. With so many ancient heritage sites to see but limited time, we ultimately chose the most representative attraction: the Burgos Cathedral – the city's iconic landmark situated right in the center.

As one of the three largest cathedrals in Spain, Burgos Cathedral was built between 1221 and 1567. A quintessential example of Cistercian Gothic architecture, the cathedral, constructed of white limestone, rises majestically and proudly. It seems as though the entire history of classical Gothic architecture is encapsulated in this magnificent structure, along with its unique collection of artworks, including paintings, tombs, and distinctive stained-glass windows. For pilgrims, the site is even more sacred as it houses the tombs of King Fernán González and El Cid – two famous national heroes who fought against the Moors from the 8th to the 11th centuries.

It took me an hour to explore the entire Burgos Cathedral. Walking along the intricately carved entrance, I had to crane my neck to admire the towering walls and the church bell tower that seemed to almost touch the sky. No matter where you position your camera, you'll get a stunning shot with the ancient walls as a backdrop and the clear blue sky stretching to the horizon. The cathedral is situated by a river spanned by an old bridge, making the view from afar absolutely breathtaking.

Walking around to the back of the church, I strolled along the weathered stone slabs. From this vantage point, the colorful houses surrounding it added a touch of cheerfulness to this solemn and sacred place. Under the shade of the long rows of trees that encircled the church, visitors leisurely walked, gazing in wonder at the architectural details of the magnificent structure and listening to the ringing of the bells.

Numerous small streets lead to the cathedral. Each street is dotted with small bars or restaurants where visitors can stop to rest and relax after their tour. Souvenir shops are always uniquely decorated to attract tourists. Of course, the symbol of Burgos Cathedral always appears on souvenirs such as magnets, postcards, scarves, and small calendars.

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Burgos – one of six Spanish cities striving to become “European Capitals of Culture” in 2016 – is joined by a Finnish city.

ARANDA DE DUERO - THE UNDERGROUND WORLD OF DRUNKEN FOOD

Leaving the monument of the century, I continued my journey to the town of Aranda de Duero, a region famous for its ancient wine cellars, located near the city of Burgos. Why is this small town so bustling with tourists? Perhaps it's partly due to the exceptional hospitality of the people of this wine-producing region. Wherever you go, at any time, you'll hear a "Hola" greeting and see smiles, even from strangers. You'll quickly forget you're a "tourist" when you step into the roadside bars, where lively bands play and people are always ready to invite you to join in the dance.

But above all, what makes Aranda de Duero a "tourist brand" is its wine cellars. Winemaking is the main occupation and has a long-standing tradition passed down from father to son. Guided by our local friend Agel, we visited the wine cellar of Alberto's family. This cellar is over a hundred years old, and has since been renovated and is only open to relatives and family members for visits.

Descending to a depth of about 12 meters, the temperature was quite cold. The deeper I went, the more fascinated I became. Now I understand in detail how they store and preserve the wine, from harvesting the grapes, bringing them back to crush them, then aging them in large barrels for a considerable period before bottling... This wine cellar is also a frequent venue for parties among the townspeople. What could be more enjoyable than savoring wine made in its homeland, nibbling on traditional jamon cured meats, listening to stories about the history of the wineries, and immersing yourself in the dances… Only then will you understand why Aranda de Duero attracts so many tourists.

Alberto – the owner of the wine cellar – showed us how to enjoy wine. First, when pouring wine into a glass, you should swirl the glass to allow air to mix with the wine, then smell the aroma of the wine before slowly bringing the glass to your mouth to drink. In Spain, before raising a glass of wine, people say "Salud!" (Good health!) or a slightly longer "Arriba, Abajo ya Centro" (Above, below, and in the middle).

As night falls, more and more people pour into the streets. This is when the streets are at their liveliest. Couples walk hand in hand, families happily chat, groups of friends gather in groups of five or seven… Spaniards eat dinner quite late, usually after 9 pm. They always have a light meal around 6 pm. Often they will stop by a bar, sipping a beer or Sangria – a famous drink – accompanied by tapas, which might be a slice of thin bread with salmon, pickled olives, or a grilled sausage. It's a time to relax after work, a time for people to meet, chat, and socialize. The whole town lights up, and bars and restaurants are packed with people.

After dinner, there are often bands playing in the street and people dancing together. Spaniards are known for their friendliness; they'll take your hand and invite you to dance with them. The fun often lasts until late at night or even into the morning.

I was truly captivated by this world – the world of delicious wines, stories about the distillation process, dances, the warm hospitality of the local people… and it seemed as though a part of my soul belonged here.

Additional information:

+ Journey: From Vietnam, you can travel to Madrid, the capital of Spain, by flying with Singapore Airlines (with a layover in Singapore of about 2 hours and Milan of 1 hour). Round-trip fare is approximately $1,000.

There is a bus route from Madrid to Burgos, which takes about 2 hours. The final stop is near the Burgos Cathedral. From Burgos, you can take another bus to the town of Aranda de Duero, which takes about another hour.

+ Some famous wine cellars in Aranda de Duero that you should visit include: Bodega Historica Don Carlos; Bodega Tradicional las Animas… These places are always open to tourists with very enthusiastic guides. To visit the wine cellars, you should contact the local tourist information offices, which are almost everywhere. You will be provided with maps and addresses of each place to visit.

+ Special note: When inside churches in Spain, you should not take photos as a sign of respect.

Like other countries in the European Union, Spain uses the Euro (equivalent to 1.3361 USD or 29,000 VND). In Spain, the USD is hardly used anywhere, so you should exchange your money into Euros for convenience while traveling.

 

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