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Text and photos:Duong Thuy
Enjoy a river and garden cruise with your "lover".
From Ho Chi Minh City, after a journey of about an hour by car, we stopped at Cai Be ferry terminal and boarded a small boat to reach the pristine white cruise ship lying peacefully in the breezy Tien River. The L'Amant cruise ship captivated me with its early 20th-century style, exuding a soft, nostalgic elegance that promised a romantic journey for travelers wishing to experience the atmosphere of the old Mekong.
To be precise, L'Amant isn't a grand cruise ship, as it can only accommodate a maximum of 24 guests per tour. However, our guide, Lam, surprised us by revealing that the ship's crew consists of 17 people. The L'Amant cruise ship is approximately 39 meters long. Besides the 12 cabins for guests, the ship also features a large restaurant, bar, sun deck, and souvenir shop with a distinct French Indochina style. After wishing us a pleasant lunch, Lam suggested a bicycle tour around An Binh islet in Vinh Long province at 3 PM.
Nestled in the cool cabin, drowsily gazing at the shimmering water reflecting the sunlight, a gentle afternoon nap drifted over us. When the gong sounded, we quickly awoke and followed Lam to a homestay on An Binh islet to pick up our bicycles. Excited, the group happily cycled along the picturesque paths surrounding the islet.
As the most beautiful islet in Vinh Long, An Binh is famous for its traditional Vietnamese houses, nestled amidst lush, verdant orchards. On this islet stands a beautiful temple called Tien Chau. According to Lam, the name Tien Chau originates from a legend that fairies used to come here to bathe and frolic in the river on moonlit nights. To commemorate this blessed land, the local residents collectively contributed to building the temple with the hope that the fairies would forever protect and bless the families of the residents, ensuring their peace and prosperity.
We pedaled smoothly along the gardens, crossing curved concrete bridges that resembled crescent moons. Upon seeing Tien Chau Pagoda, most of us were taken aback by its modern appearance; despite our efforts to find traces of the past, they had faded into oblivion, unlike the mystical image we had all imagined. Afterwards, the group followed another path leading to the famous longan drying area on the island.
Returning to the cruise ship, we had dinner as the vessel slowly sailed upstream towards Lap Vo - Sa Dec. Under the starry night sky, sitting on the sundesk and watching the entire film L'Amant by director Jean Jacques Arnault, emotions welled up as we all realized: the old Mekong landscape was recreated by the talented director in the film with great subtlety and romance.
Traces of "The Lover" in Sa Dec
During his trip with L'Amant, Lam mentioned that the main highlight of the tour was the sightseeing locations in Sa Dec. When the film "The Lover" was released in 1987, the former house of the Huynh Thuy Le landlord family immediately became a popular destination for curious French tourists. However, after going through quite a few complicated procedures, the house was finally transferred to the Dong Thap tourism company for management and operation to serve tourists as it is today.
Located near the market and facing the Sa Dec River, the three-room house features elaborately carved wooden doors. In reality, only a very small part of the house remains today, as the entire outbuildings, the back yard, and the garden were completely encroached upon previously. Inside, a few cupboards, a set of beds, and a rather exquisitely crafted mother-of-pearl inlaid altar remain.
The Huynh Thuy Le family, originally of Chinese descent, lived in a house built in a blend of Eastern and Western architectural styles. Reading the memoirs of writer Marguerite Duras, one learns that although she lived with her mother and two brothers in a nearby area, she never set foot in the most beautiful house in Dong Thap at the time because the Huynh Thuy Le family disapproved.
Leaving the "Lovers' House," we visited the nearby bridge where Marguerite Duras cycled, gazing intently at the wedding procession arriving by boat, to catch one last glimpse of the "lover" she so deeply loved, according to the famous film. Next was the girls' school where Duras's mother used to be the headmistress. Thanks to watching the film the night before, it was easy to see that almost all the old scenery was gone.
We decided to walk nearly 2km to visit the resting place of Mr. Huynh Thuy Le. Overall, although the tomb was well-built, it still had a lingering, cold atmosphere. Looking at the tomb of a man from the past, a touch of sadness arose for all the hopes, loves, and fleeting fame that eventually faded into oblivion. And then, each of us continued writing our own love stories as we left the shore and returned to the L'Amant cruise ship.
