Visit Rome and experience a "low-key" Christmas.

04/12/2018

I have to tell you upfront as you begin reading this article, Christmas in Rome isn't anything too special. If you're looking for something glamorous, you can close this tab in your browser; I won't mind. But if you're looking for a less bustling corner of Rome, you've found it.

Perhaps for me, Rome is a city that's not entirely unfamiliar, even though I haven't set foot there. How many Hollywood films have been made here? From romantic dramas like "Eat, Pray, Love" and "When in Rome," to suspenseful thrillers like "Angels & Demons" and "Spectre," and even comedies like "EuroTrip." The annoying thing about Rome is that it's talked about too much. But I'm visiting Rome for a different reason. I won't talk about the magnificent Colosseum, Foro Romano, and Fontana di Trevi; I'll talk about the less bustling aspects, the less crowded scenes of Fontana di Trevi with tourists jostling for every photo opportunity, and the less fear of theft in front of the Colosseum.

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Today, let's stroll along the cobblestone streets. Oh, and before we head out, remember to wear something warm; a trench coat will add to our charm amidst these already dazzling streets.

My immersion in the Christmas atmosphere was as unexpected as my luggage getting lost upon arrival at Fiumicino airport. I abandoned my thoughts of visiting certain marked-up locations on the map or those TripAdvisor-rated restaurants, and instead chose to wander aimlessly through the neighborhoods. I was still wearing the same sweatpants I'd worn on the plane because I had no other clothes to change into, but that was okay; the trench coat my boyfriend gave me covered up my little fashion faux pas. By the time I reached Via della Scala, the atmosphere had warmed up considerably.

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The way I knew Christmas was approaching in Rome was like seeing winter arrive on carts loaded with daisies in Hanoi's Old Quarter. What told me Christmas had come was the houses, shops, and restaurants starting to hang yellow lights, and attaching round mistletoe branches or green pine trees around their doorways. A few steps along Via della Scala were enough for me to feel that atmosphere permeating the entire street.

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From the Castle of the Angels, I crossed a bridge over the small Tevere River, feeling as if I were walking on a Parisian bridge. It reminded me a little of last Christmas when I had a half-day layover in Paris and experienced the Christmas atmosphere there.

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Since we're on the subject, I'd like to discuss the many Italian names that have been transliterated differently into English without retaining their original forms. For example, the Tevere River becomes Tibre in English, or Rome instead of Roma, Venice instead of Venezia, Florence instead of Florence, and Milano instead of Milan. A Google search yields no specific answers, only that names of Latin origin are often translated differently into English due to pronunciation issues. However, I still prefer the original names of these Italian cities and rivers; they sound somewhat romantic.

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Christmas in European countries (based on my experience celebrating Christmas in Paris, Reykjavik, and a bit of Rome) has a generally less boisterous atmosphere. Some Christmas markets are particularly lively, but it's rumored that this is only true in certain cities and towns like Strasbourg (France) and Munich (Germany). In most European cities, Christmas is more about menus featuring delicious eggnog or cinnamon rolls for a warm Christmas season, and the decorations adorning the streets.

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Christmas in Rome is also quiet and unpretentious, just the cool air and warm yellow lights that make you want more than anything; just sit down at a roadside diner and order a special menu.

Ly Thanh Co
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