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Setting off at dawn on a day in mid-December, we had to leave very early to make the most of the short daylight hours of winter. These days, sunrise is at 11 a.m. and sunset is at 4 p.m. So, in the darkness of 8 p.m., we started our journey westward. All I hoped for was a sunny day, because if it snowed, it would be so depressing.
Touch the Icelandic Horses
As we sped through the stunning Snaefellsnes region of western Iceland, we spotted herds of horses resting peacefully in the distance. Our curiosity piqued, we stopped to touch the Icelandic horses. Our guide explained, "Western Iceland has vast fields and is home to the largest horse population on the island."
Icelandic horses are among the purest breeds in the world because there is a law prohibiting the re-importation of horses that have been taken abroad for sale or competition. As an island nation, Iceland has very little interaction with the outside world, so Icelandic horses have not been crossbred with many different breeds.
Wild horses are very rare in Iceland. If you see horses running freely in the Icelandic mountains and fields, don't assume they are wild. They all have owners, and the best way to care for them is to let them roam freely in the wild for as long as possible. Even in cold weather, these horses prefer being outside rather than sheltering in stalls. They will huddle together in herds to keep each other warm.
Describing the personality of Icelandic horses can only be described as: friendly and intelligent. They are very tame, running towards people as quickly as they see them, like pet dogs. And they love being petted. I had the feeling of an entire herd running up to me, nibbling on my clothes in delight, and one horse even gave me a kiss on the cheek – it felt like one of those giant puppies.
Stop at the fishing village of Arnarstapi
By midday, we arrived in Arnarstapi – a fishing village in western Iceland. The village, with only about 15 houses, nestled at the foot of the snow-covered Stapafell mountain in winter. Luckily, there was no snowfall today, but instead five hours of bright sunshine. The sea breeze flowed through my throat and caressed my face. The waves lapped against the sheer cliffs like a symphony of life. Around me, there were only two other groups of people making their way along the winding path around the sea cliff near Arnarstapi.
Arnarstaspi is a vibrant fishing village in the summer. But in winter, it's incredibly quiet, everything seems so much gentler. My three friends and I went to the only cafe still open in the village and enjoyed a warm cup of hot chocolate and a slice of freshly baked apple pie. Inside the cafe, there were only three of us. Our initial purpose for coming here was to see Gatklettur – Arch Rock, a stunning rock formation perched in the sea. But I also fell in love with Stapafell Mountain with its white house. This scene is the easiest way to recognize that you've arrived in Arnarstaspi. But winter blankets the mountain in beautiful colors, making it more vibrant than anything I've seen in photos online taken in spring or summer.
I love the scenery of western Iceland right now. Some places are covered in snow, but others are covered in golden grass, as if the transition between autumn and winter hasn't quite ended. For me, Arnarstapi is like a peaceful haven all to myself, unspoiled by tourists, where I find a little tranquility on my journey.
The feeling of sitting silently watching the sunset by the cliff overlooking the rocky outcrops offshore, in the biting cold, will always be an unforgettable experience for me. If you ever have the chance, please come here, to find an extraordinary peace in your heart, to realize that these small villages and natural landscapes truly represent where you belong.
Kirkjufell, the mountain shaped like a hat.
Leaving Arnarstapi at dusk, we sped off in our car to catch a glimpse of the mountains before it got completely dark. By then, the snowstorms had begun. Iceland's winds are the third strongest in the world. Snowdrifts swept across the road like ocean waves. We drove right through them. As we entered the mountainous region, patches of ice formed by mountain streams appeared along the roadside, and we knew we were nearing the end of our journey.
Kirkjufell, or “Church Mountain,” is a distinctly shaped peak found on the northern shore of the Snaefellsnes peninsula, a short distance from the town of Grundarfjorður. Kirkjufell takes its name from its resemblance to a church bell tower, sharpened at the apex with long, curved edges. From other angles, the mountain has been compared to a witch's hat or even an ice cream cone. It is often known as the most photographed mountain in Iceland due to its impressive formation and perfect coastal location. It has also served as a filming location for several episodes of the popular Game of Thrones series.
With its peak at 463 m, Kirkjufell is an impressive landmark. For centuries, Kirkjufell's striking slopes have served as a significant landmark for sailors and travelers alike. More recently, the mountain has become a popular destination for amateur and professional photographers from around the world.
A short walk from Kirkjufell leads to the tranquil Kirkjufellsfoss (Church Waterfall), a fantastic backdrop for photographers to easily capture stunning shots. When we arrived, the three gently flowing streams of Kirkjufellsfoss were completely frozen, creating a scene like a winter wonderland.
We sat at the foot of the waterfall, where our Vietnamese guide had prepared hot tea and biscuits for the whole group to enjoy while feeling the chill of the Icelandic winter and admiring the beauty of West Iceland. This place was a stunning highlight to conclude my Icelandic journey.
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
Visa:If Iceland is just a stop on your European trip, a Schengen visa is sufficient. If you are only visiting Iceland, you can apply for a visa at the Icelandic Embassy or Consulate; the processing time is 3 weeks.
Trip:While there are no direct flights from Vietnam to Iceland, many connecting flights are available from Vietnamese and international airlines, with prices starting from around 25 million VND.
Weather:Winter is the harshest season of the year in Iceland, with freezing temperatures and snow everywhere, but that's also what gives Iceland its magical beauty.
Means of transportation:From Reykjavik, there is only one bus route to Arnarstapi. However, this bus route only operates during the spring and summer months. When it snows, the bus service stops completely.
In winter, tourists have only two main options: hiring a tour from Reykjavik, costing between 120 and 150 euros per person, or renting a car to explore the area on their own.
Accommodation:You can choose to stay in Reykjavik with a wider variety of rooms, but Arnarstapi also has one or two room options, though the prices will be quite expensive.
Cuisine:Western Iceland doesn't have many cities; there's only the small town of Arnarstapi where you can stop for hot chocolate and a few pastries. It's best to prepare your own food in Reykjavik before you start this journey.
