One morning at the end of the year, holding a cup of hot tea fragrant with cinnamon, I looked out into the yard and thought to myself, "I wish it would snow." Suddenly, a small, round, fluffy snowflake floated in front of me before gently landing on the doorstep.
Since my first farewell to my family at Noi Bai Airport, I've experienced countless snowfalls. I remember hugging strangers on New Year's Eve under the snow in front of the Brandenburg Gate, then unexpectedly encountering snowfall in May at the Grand Canyon, or getting lost in the snow on some mountaintop in North Africa. So many memories, in an instant, flash before a tiny snowflake before that fluffy object lands on the windowsill and melts away. Indeed, every time I see snow falling anywhere, I'm reminded of the snowstorms in Strasbourg long ago, when I was eighteen or twenty.
Strasbourg is a peaceful city in northeastern France, formerly the capital of the Alsace region. Following administrative reforms a few years ago, it is now part of the Grand Est region. Historically, Alsace comprised two provinces, Bas-Rhin, centered in Strasbourg, and Haut-Rhin, with Colmar as its capital. Alsace is charming, situated on the banks of the Rhine River, and bordered by the Schwarzwald (Black Forest) mountain range in Germany and the Vosges mountain range in France. Here, lush green vineyards stretch across the hillsides, embracing lovely small villages in the valleys and providing a backdrop for castles and monasteries perched high above.
Petite France is quiet and peaceful when there is no Christmas market.
Europe's Christmas capital
Those familiar with politics are likely to know Strasbourg as the location of the European Parliament, which convenes occasionally. For tourists, Strasbourg is known as a beautiful city with a cathedral that is the second most visited in France, after Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris; the origin of the Alsace "Route des Vins" (Wine Route); and, even more famously, the "Christmas Capital," home to one of the most beautiful Christmas markets in Europe every year.
Without the Christmas market, Strasbourg is a tranquil city, its people living to the slow, rhythmic clanging of the trams intersecting at the Homme de Fer station. And my memories of Strasbourg are as peaceful as the flow of the two branches of the I River embracing the city center.
Christmas and its brightly colored traditional toys remind us of our childhood.
Christmas, the season of loving and being loved.
However, if I were to take a friend to Strasbourg, instead of going straight to the center, I would start the tour at the main train station. Strasbourg train station is a wonderful blend of classical and modern architecture. Built relatively late, in 1870, during the reign of Wilhelm I, when the city was still under Prussian rule, it is the city's second train station, replacing the first one which was destroyed during the Franco-Prussian War.
Over the past decade, expanded to serve the Paris-Strasbourg high-speed train (TGV Est), Strasbourg station has taken on a new look with a glass dome extending over the old building. The sturdy but heavy walls, characteristic of 19th-century German architecture, have become more graceful thanks to the soft, curved arches. Seen from the outside, the dome reflects the sky, looking like a giant drop of water, yet is transparent enough to allow one to admire the old station inside. Rarely is such an expansion carried out in such a harmonious and artistic way.
Christmas markets are places where you can find countless beautiful decorations.
Notre Dame Cathedral Square without the Christmas market and the Kammerzell House, a symbol of Strasbourg's old-style trussed architecture.
About a five-minute walk from the main station is the Vauban Dam, designed by the most famous French military architect of the 17th century, Sébastien Le Prestre de Vauban. From the Vauban Dam's terrace, you can admire the entire Petite France (Little France) old town, with the Ponts Couverts and four watchtowers that were part of the medieval city's defenses in the foreground. A little further away, Notre Dame Cathedral stands out against the skyline.
Warm hats and woolen scarves are also selling very well. Indeed, in this cold weather, all I want is to cuddle with something warm and cozy.
Strasbourg and Petite France
Ponts Couverts is one of dozens of bridges leading to the Grande Île – the Great Island. The Grande Île embraces the historic center of Strasbourg and has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1988. From the Vauban Dam, crossing Ponts Couverts leads to Petite France, where you can admire the charming German-style half-timbered houses reflected in the canals, lining the lovely little streets.
In the warm season, residents of Petite France tend to their vibrant red geraniums in pots by their windows, making each already beautiful house even more charming. In winter, magnificent Christmas lights, replacing flowers, are hung along every street, blending with cheerful music to warm both the space and the hearts of the people.
Traditional decorations are made from flour, salt, and water.
The oldest and most traditional Christmas market in France is called Christkindelsmärik and is located in Broglie Square.
Contrary to popular belief, this most beautiful old town in Strasbourg wasn't given a name that evokes affection, nor does it reflect patriotism. The name Petite France dates back to the 15th century. At that time, Strasbourg and Alsace were not yet part of France. The area served as a quarantine hospital for plague patients, primarily mercenaries for the French army during the Italian Wars. The people of Strasbourg called the plague "the French disease," leading to the ironic nickname – Little France.
From Petite France, past Saint Thomas Church, continuing east leads to the very characteristic Alsace Place du Marché aux Cochons de Lait (Place du Marché aux Cochons de Lait). This tiny, quiet square is nestled in an unnoticed corner, hidden among half-timbered houses, in the shadow of the nearby Notre Dame Cathedral and the Rohan Palace. Every afternoon, as I walk through it, I feel as if I've stepped into one of Hansi's paintings depicting scenes of ancient Alsace.
Handcrafted ceramic products are on display at the Christmas market.
Strasbourg and the legend of Notre Dame Cathedral
A few more steps and I would stand before the breezy courtyard of the Strasbourg Cathedral. This is the oldest Gothic cathedral, construction of which began in 1015 and took over three hundred years to complete. For several centuries afterward, until almost the end of the 19th century, it remained the tallest building in the world. From the top of the cathedral, one can admire a panoramic view of the city, extending all the way to the Alsace plain and the Black Forest.
The elders of Alsace often tell children the legend of the winds swirling around the Notre Dame Cathedral. The story goes that, over six hundred years ago, on a dark night, Satan, who lived in the Harz forest on the other side of the Rhine, rode his horse of wind to see the newly built Notre Dame Cathedral. So engrossed in admiring it, he didn't notice the sun rising and took refuge inside the Les Angels (Angels) column within the cathedral. The angels then imprisoned him inside the column. The horse of wind has continued to swirl around the cathedral ever since.
Christmas in Strasbourg sparkles under the evening streetlights.
Petit pain de Noel - Little Christmas bread, a type of bread unique to Alsace during the holiday season. The outside resembles beignet, while the inside is filled with a mixture of dried fruit jam and cinnamon powder.
A sparkling Christmas in Strasbourg
From Notre Dame Cathedral, instead of taking the main Rue des Grandes Arcades to Kléber Square, I choose a parallel street – Rue des Orfèvres. At the end of the year, Rue des Orfèvres sparkles, magical like a fairy tale. A warm Christmas atmosphere permeates and spreads along the small street. Around the end of November each year, a century-old fir tree from the Vosges Mountains is erected at the eastern corner of the square and becomes the city's Christmas symbol.
France's oldest Christmas market.
Walking two more streets, I'll reach Broglie Square and stand in front of Strasbourg City Hall. Broglie Square is especially significant to the French because it's where Rouget de Lisle composed "La Marseillaise," which later became the French national anthem. I enjoy strolling here in all four seasons, buying local produce on Wednesdays and Fridays, occasionally visiting the flea market in the summer, joining the crowds at the Christmas market in the winter, or simply wandering under the shady trees.
The oldest and most traditional Christmas market in France is called Christkindelsmärik, located in Broglie Square. For a long time, it was the only Christmas market in France. At the Christmas market, you can't miss a glass of mulled wine. But if you don't drink alcohol, try a cup of warm orange juice with cinnamon instead.
New neighborhood
Reaching the end of Broglie Square, past the Opera House, and across the bridge over the Ill River, I left Grande Île and arrived in Neustadt (New Town). Strasbourg's Neustadt, a UNESCO World Heritage site since mid-2017, was built primarily in the 19th century in the Neo-Renaissance style, a blend of refined French architecture and grand German influences. The Piazza Republique is the most striking feature, with its expansive lines, including the Palais du Rhin, the National Theatre, the University Library, and the straight, wide avenues.
The large pine tree in Kléber Square.
Walking along the tram line, past the city post office, I arrived at Galia Wharf on the Royal Bridge. During my student years, I loved walking from the university complex to this spot to admire St. Paul's Church and the Quai des Pêcheurs waterfront. At dusk, it was incredibly relaxing to descend the steps at either end of the bridge, get close to the water's edge, play with the seagulls and swans, and watch the soft sunlight paint the two bell towers of St. Paul's Church a rosy hue before nightfall.
It's been a long time since I've been back to Strasbourg during Christmas, and I'm feeling so excited. The city lights are just coming on, and snow is beginning to blanket the rooftops in the old town. I chose a cozy seat by the window in a bar on Rue des Frères, watching the snow and the couples walking hand in hand. Christmas is magical—cold, warm, and full of love. The season of love has arrived!
Saint-Paul Church on a snowy day.
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
Visa:You need a Schengen visa to travel to France. The journey: There are many flights from Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City to Paris, then you can take a high-speed train from Paris to Strasbourg.
Means of transportation:Strasbourg is a small city, and you can walk to most of the main attractions. Additionally, the city has an excellent tram and bus system. However, during the Christmas market, the tram stations on the Grande Île are completely closed, or only closed during market hours. Best time to visit: If you want to explore and see the city, the best time is from the end of March to October when Strasbourg is not too crowded with tourists.
If you want to enjoy the festive atmosphere, visit during Christmas to see the Christmas market and participate in other Christmas activities. However, during this time, the city is crowded with tourists, and hotel prices skyrocket as a result.
Cuisine :
- When in Alsace, people will mention choucroute, much like cassoulet in Midi Pyrrénée or crêpes in Brittany. Besides that, don't miss other equally famous dishes such as the traditional tarte flambée topped with fresh cream, onions, and chopped smoked bacon; the Kugelhopf with raisins, shaped like a hat and perforated in the middle; and Pain d'épice, spiced with star anise and cinnamon.
- If you're unsure what to eat, take a stroll along Rue des Frères, a small street behind Notre Dame Cathedral. You'll find all kinds of eateries here, from traditional restaurants to Italian cafes, crepe shops, and even Asian restaurants.
- Alsace is famous for its white wines, especially Muscat, Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Gewürztraminer, in addition to mulled white wine and mulled red wine commonly found at Christmas markets.
Bretzel, a savory pastry, is also a specialty of Alsace.
When visiting Alsace, you absolutely must try choucroute, the most famous local specialty.
Other notes:
- Christmas markets in Strasbourg: Actually, it's a complex of different markets scattered across several squares in the city. There are three main markets: Place des Meuniers and Place Benjamin Zix (in the Petite France district), Notre Dame Square, and Broglie Square. Petite France and Notre Dame are the two busiest Christmas markets, but Broglie Square is the local favorite.
- Taking a boat trip on the Ill River is also a great way to see the city and the Petite France area from the riverbank. The tourist boats in Strasbourg are called Batorama. They depart approximately every hour, with fares ranging from 9.3 EUR to 12.3 EUR depending on the route.
- Photo spots and scenic viewpoints in Strasbourg: The terrace on the Vauban Dam, the entrance at the western end of the Ponts Couverts bridge; the western corner of Benjamin Zix Square in the Petite France district; the bell tower of Notre Dame Cathedral; Rue Mercière in front of Notre Dame Cathedral; the Galila tram station, the Royal Bridge; Kléber Square and Rue des Orfèvres (during Christmas).
VI
EN
_result.jpg.jpg)
_result.jpg.jpg)
