VI
EN
The perfect combination of a three-bay house serving as the front hall of the ancestral temple with the veranda columns and European-style decorative details in the foundation.
This is the shrine dedicated to Princess Ngoc Son, whose maiden name was Nguyen Phuoc Hy Hy, daughter of King Dong Khanh (1885-1889). She married General Nguyen Huu Tien, son of Grand Scholar Nguyen Huu Thang, a high-ranking official of the Nguyen dynasty. After giving birth to a daughter, Princess Ngoc Son fell seriously ill and died at the young age of 20. In accordance with her wishes, her husband, Nguyen Huu Tien, remarried a member of the Nguyen royal family, Princess Cong Ton Nu Thi Tran, daughter of Duke Kien Nguyen Phuoc Ung Quyen, King Dong Khanh's younger brother.
The worship space is arranged according to the principle of "Buddha in front, spirits behind".
In 1921, Mr. Nguyen Huu Tien had a house built on a garden plot of nearly 2,400 square meters.2 A mansion built in the typical Hue garden house style, serving as a place of worship for the spirit of Princess Ngoc Son, his first wife. It also served as the residence for his family, along with his seven children from his second wife, Princess Cong Ton Nu Thi Tran. For over 90 years, the Ngoc Son Princess's shrine has been preserved and maintained almost intact by the descendants of Prince Consort Nguyen Huu Tien, despite the many vicissitudes experienced by the ancient capital of Hue and the Gia Hoi area in particular.
Most of the mansions of the Nguyen dynasty princes and princesses (which have now become ancestral temples) have either been fragmented due to overpopulation or altered by urbanization. Meanwhile, the Ngoc Son Princess Ancestral Temple seems to have preserved its original form, from the landscaped grounds to the interior layout, worship practices, and the traditional family lifestyle of generations of descendants.
This is also one of the well-known private libraries in the ancient capital of Hue.
The first interesting thing is that the Ngoc Son Princess Shrine does not have a three-arched gate at the front like other shrines in Hue. The entrance to the shrine is from the back of the house, via a winding path between two rows of tea plants and two rows of betel nut trees at the left gable end. At the end of this path is a spacious courtyard, in front of which is an architectural complex consisting of a shallow pond planted with water lilies and a miniature rock garden crafted from blocks of stone and miniature models of pavilions, temples, bridges, and towers, creating a unique and fascinating sight. Unlike traditional houses in Hue, the Ngoc Son Princess Shrine does not have a screen wall in front. The charming rock garden itself serves as the front screen for the house. The homeowner has made full use of feng shui principles, combined with a refined aesthetic sense, to create a very harmonious architectural and decorative arrangement: the rock garden is not too low, enough to shield the ancestral shrine from external misfortunes, but not too high to obstruct the view and prevent the owner from enjoying the fragrance of the herbs and the cool breeze from the large lotus pond in front of the shrine.
Shallow pond and rock garden viewed from the interior of the ancestral temple.
At either end of the main hall are two small gardens, each with a unique rock formation representing the "left dragon, right tiger" facing the temple, along with flower pots, bonsai trees, miniature landscapes, etc., creating spaces imbued with philosophical meaning and significance within the temple grounds.
The main architectural structure of the Ngoc Son Princess's shrine is a double building: a three-bay front hall with a row of brick and mortar columns, painted yellow, and decorated in the style of European houses, which were very popular in Hue in the early 20th century; and a three-bay main hall with two side wings, in the style of Hue's traditional houses, with a tiled roof, decorated with lime mortar details depicting "clouds transforming into dragons," a wooden frame with four rows of columns on each side, and intricately carved trusses, along with horizontal and vertical plaques inscribed with Chinese characters decorating all three bays.
Interior of the Ngọc Sơn Princess Shrine
Right in the center of the main hall is the central altar, arranged according to the principle of "Buddha in front, spirits behind." The front is dedicated to Buddha, while the back is dedicated to the spirits of the following figures: Grand Scholar Nguyen Huu Thang, Prince Consort Nguyen Huu Tien, the two princesses, the county princess, and the deceased descendants of the family. The relics of the Prince Consort, from the medals bestowed by Emperor Khai Dinh (1916-1925) to his leisure items such as a bone divining set, a wooden gourd set, porcelain pieces with Chinese designs, silver or ivory betel nut sets, and exquisitely carved tea trays… are all carefully preserved by generations of descendants and displayed in antique wooden cabinets, making the ancestral shrine resemble a small private museum. Along with family heirlooms, there are thousands of precious books in various languages, making this one of the largest and rarest family libraries in the ancient capital region.
Connected to the main building is a corridor leading to the annex on the right, which used to be the "world of the servants," but is now the family's common living space.
Overall, the main architectural complex of the Ngoc Son Princess's shrine is a harmonious blend of traditional Hue architecture – the "double-tiered roof" style – with European-style decorative details and materials, clearly evident in the columns of the front hall, the decorations on the foundation, the mirrored lamps attached to the columns, and the cement corbels supporting the roof at both gable ends. This architectural complex is cleverly placed within a courtyard arranged according to feng shui principles and East Asian philosophy, with a front altar (miniature landscape), a main hall (lotus pond and shallow pool), and two auspicious rocks (left dragon and right tiger) placed on either side of the front hall. Within this courtyard, besides the house which serves both as a place of worship for the deceased and as the residence for generations of descendants of Prince Consort Nguyen Huu Tien, there is also the tomb of the princess. Hue is a place where the living are not afraid to share their living space with the deceased. This spirit is concretely evident in the grounds of Princess Ngoc Son's ancestral temple for decades. Between life and death lies a space of plants and flowers, of tranquility and elegance, reflecting the character and spirit of the people of Hue and the standards of Hue culture.
The tomb of Princess Công Tôn Nữ Thị Trân is located within the grounds of the Ngọc Sơn Princess's shrine.
The current heir to the ancestral shrine is Mrs. Nguyen Thi Suong, granddaughter of Prince Consort Nguyen Huu Tien. Her husband is the renowned historian of Hue, Mr. Phan Thuan An. Mr. Phan Thuan An and Mrs. Nguyen Thi Suong's deep understanding of Hue's history and culture, and their profound respect for their ancestors, are crucial factors in ensuring the proper preservation and integrity of the Ngoc Son Princess shrine. This devotion and spirit have been passed on to their three children, who are now involved in preserving and promoting the values of Hue's cultural heritage, including the Ngoc Son Princess shrine, to the community and the world.
Visiting the Ngoc Son Princess's shrine, one not only has the opportunity to admire a prime example of Hue's garden house architecture, but also to learn about the "traditional Hue house style," exploring the hidden depths of Hue's soul, which is also an integral part of Hue's cultural heritage.
Additional information:
- From the Hue Imperial Citadel, exit through the Thuong Tu Gate, turn left onto Tran Hung Dao Street, pass Dong Ba Market, cross Gia Hoi Bridge, turn left onto Bach Dang Street to the foot of Dong Ba Bridge, then turn right onto Nguyen Chi Thanh Street; or from inside the Hue Imperial Citadel, exit through the Chinh Dong Gate (Dong Ba Gate) on the left, then cross Dong Ba Bridge onto Nguyen Chi Thanh Street, go another 200m to address number 31, which is the shrine of Princess Ngoc Son.
- You can get to Princess Ngoc Son's shrine by taxi, cyclo, or motorbike. The shrine is open every day and ready to welcome visitors. Those who want to hear historian Phan Thuan An talk about the value of the shrine, about the history, culture and architecture of Hue should register in advance via phone number (054) 3 525 411.
Text and photos: Tran Duc Anh Son
