My favorite coffee shop is the 'perfect Elise' spot.

All of Paris in Elise's notebook

If there's one place that reminds me of my first days in Paris, it's undoubtedly the apartment I entered through a tightly closed gate, leading to a secluded courtyard where, on a regular schedule, the bells of the nearby Saint-Laurent church would ring out. It was in that small, cramped apartment, always imbued with a chilly atmosphere, that I first encountered Paris through a notebook filled with postcards, newspaper articles, hastily cut-out flyers, and quick notes about a fascinating new place.

Elise has all of Paris in her notebook. It could be an old factory by the Saint-Martin canal repurposed as a Sunday morning flea market. Sometimes it's a grocery store specializing in African spices, or perhaps the opening of a metal jewelry exhibition by an old school friend. In short, this girl possesses a treasure trove of unique shopping and entertainment spots in a Paris already overflowing with interesting places. Le Pavillon des Canaux is one such place. A favorite café that's "typical Elise."

Sidewalk by the canal

I like to translate the name of the cafe as "canalside side street," the exact address is 39 quai de la Loire, Paris 19ème. From the nearest metro station, remember to walk past a few barbershops, public laundromats, some construction sites blocking the sidewalks for pedestrians, and fruit stalls displaying their wares in a straight line. Not to mention you have to cross a bridge into a residential area and then turn right to see the hidden graffiti wall.

This cafe-and-more-than-a-coffee shop has a stunning view of the vast river from its facade. Luckily, it was a drizzly afternoon, so we had to go inside. Sitting outside would have been completely inappropriate!

The cafe is designed to resemble a house, or more precisely, a house that still appears to be inhabited. The kitchen gleams with pans and stacks of baking equipment. A few crumbs remain on the edge of the dining table, in the living space, as if someone had returned last night and placed a hastily bought loaf of bread from the bakery at the end of the street there. And that coat and hat rack behind the window sill—tonight, you will no longer be so peaceful and alone!

In that café-house, every nook and cranny is utilized as seating for guests. For example, you can slip into the bathtub and sip a hot chocolate, or climb onto the floral-sheeted bed, filled with dolls of all sizes, to read a book and enjoy tea. In the next room, a group of students are excitedly discussing their upcoming presentation, and if you peek inside, you'll see one sprawled on the bed, another leaning languidly in a chair, and another fiddling with a book title—as if they were in a familiar space belonging to one of their friends in the group. No one knows each other, but from the moment they enter, everyone seems to feel a sense of belonging to an object, a perspective, a seat in that corner.

No one knew each other, but from the moment they stepped inside, it seemed everyone belonged to an object, a perspective, a seat in that annex.

Indeed, what makes Le Pavillon des Canaux so fascinating is its constant transformation, regardless of its space and function. The bathroom with the bathtub where you used to sit and drink chocolate years ago has now become a barbershop. The courtyard separating the house from the river is where outdoor yoga classes are held…

That's right, Le Pavillon des Canaux always offers more than one reason for people to come and go. Love the Love & Dress brand? Come into the dining room, the Christmas tree corner, to admire the new designs. Want to take a less-talked-about course? Culinary Stylist promises to be a lot of fun. Craving a sleepless night like during your final thesis writing? Just head over there, you're sure to find companions…

And sometimes, there's no need for a profound reason. For me, visiting this canal-side cottage is about reminiscing about a time when Elise chased after her world, a time when Paris was her whole world.

Additional information:

Official website of Le Pavillon des Canaux: www.pavillondescanaux.com

+ To get an updated list of the most inspiring cafes in Paris, remember to visit: www.goodcoffeeinparis.com

Text: Trang Ami Photos: Pavillon des Canaux

The Thanh