Flying dragons at Thai Hoa Palace

FLYING DRAGONS AT THAI HOA PALACE

Text and photos:Hanoi

Historical relics of the Nguyen Dynasty

Located behind Ngo Mon Gate – the main entrance to the Imperial Citadel – on the sacred axis, Thai Hoa Palace is a prominent landmark, dominating a vast space within the Imperial Citadel. The central position of Thai Hoa Palace within the Imperial Citadel was calculated and determined by the Nguyen Dynasty planners and designers from the very beginning of the construction of Phu Xuan Citadel in the early 19th century. It is one of the oldest architectural works in Hue Imperial Citadel, and the most important in many respects: location, function, architectural and artistic value, and historical and cultural value.

In 1802, Nguyen Anh defeated the Tay Son dynasty, unified the country, ascended the throne with the reign name Gia Long, and established the Nguyen dynasty, the last feudal dynasty in Vietnamese history. Like the Nguyen and Tay Son periods, King Gia Long established his capital in Phu Xuan (Hue) and began planning and constructing the imperial city. After a period of surveying, research, and planning, construction of the imperial city began in 1805 and was essentially completed in 1832 during the reign of King Minh Mang. However, architectural works throughout the imperial city and within the Citadel were built by many subsequent kings. The Thai Hoa Palace, in particular, played a crucial role and held significant meaning, so it was built very early, coinciding with the construction of the imperial city. With King Gia Long officially being crowned here, the Thai Hoa Palace became an extremely meaningful place marking the beginning of the Nguyen dynasty. And of course, all the kings who came after him were crowned in the Thái Hòa Palace.

From then until the last reigns of the Nguyen dynasty, Thai Hoa Palace was the place where the emperor and his officials held court. Thai Hoa Palace was also where solemn court ceremonies were held, both regular and extraordinary, such as the coronation ceremony, the emperor's birthday celebration, the 40th or 50th birthday celebration, and the National Day commemoration. Thai Hoa Palace was also the official reception place for foreign envoys and the site of diplomatic ceremonies. Almost all the most important events of the royal family, the dynasty, and the country originated from this palace. It can be said that, for over two hundred years, amidst the ups and downs of the capital, Thai Hoa Palace has been a witness to countless events, both glorious and bitter, of Vietnam throughout the 13 reigns of the Nguyen dynasty, from Gia Long – the founder of the dynasty – to Bao Dai – the last emperor.

The pinnacle of Hue imperial palace architecture.

From Ngo Mon Gate – the main gate of the Imperial Citadel in the south, across Trung Dao Bridge spanning Thai Dich Lake, and through the three levels of the Dai Trieu courtyard, you reach Thai Hoa Palace. It is the first structure in the system of buildings within the Imperial Citadel in terms of location. Since its construction and throughout its more than two hundred years of existence, Thai Hoa Palace has undergone many changes and numerous renovations and upgrades. Among these, the following are some of the most important:

- During the reign of Gia Long (1802-1819): The Thai Hoa Palace was built (1805) and became the central and important architectural structure of the Imperial Citadel. The original location of the Thai Hoa Palace was determined to be at the location of the present-day Dai Cung Mon (main gate to the Forbidden City), which is about 50m north (behind) the current Thai Hoa Palace; and it was located on the sacred axis of the Imperial City.

- During the reign of Minh Mạng (1820-1840): In 1833, while upgrading a series of architectural works in the Imperial Citadel and Forbidden City area, the king ordered..."The Thai Hoa Palace was moved slightly to the south, making it massive and spacious."(BookDai Nam Thuc Luc- National History Institute of the Nguyen Dynasty). Thus, in addition to relocating, the Thai Hoa Palace was renovated and upgraded in scale.

- During the reign of Emperor Thành Thái (1889 - 1907): In 1891, the emperor ordered the renovation of the palace, and in 1899, the palace floor was paved with decorative tiles, replacing the previous glazed Bat Trang tiles.

- During the reign of Khai Dinh (1916 - 1925): In 1923, the king ordered major renovations to the Thai Hoa Palace in preparation for the "Fortieth Birthday Celebration" (the king's 40th birthday) the following year (1924). This renovation involved significant changes. Many architectural elements and components were replaced or modernized. These included the installation of two rows of glass doors (a new material imported from Europe) on the front and back of the palace; the creation of large circular windows with the character "longevity" (壽) on the brick walls of the two side wings; the replacement of the old embroidered felt canopy with a new one made of enamel and gilded carved wooden trim; and the repainting and gilding of all wooden interior elements.

- During the reign of Bảo Đại (1926 - 1945), Thái Hòa Palace was also restored, and after the end of the feudal regime (1945), this building and the surrounding gardens were renovated many times in the years 1960, 1970, 1973, 1981, 1985, 1992…

Despite numerous changes, the basic architecture, structure, form, and essence of the Thai Hoa Palace have been preserved, especially its structure and decorative art. In terms of overall layout, large-scale structures in northern Vietnam were often built in layouts resembling the Chinese characters "one," "two," "three," "work," or "inner work, outer country." This was due to the limitations of the materials used – wood. The Thai Hoa Palace, however, was built in the "double-tiered roof, double-beam" style, a typical architectural style of Phu Xuan. This involved merging two buildings, front and back, on a single floor to create a large, interconnected space. Both the front and back buildings have seven bays and two wings; from front to back, there are seven columns (not including the porch columns), with one shared column between the two buildings. The front building (front hall) has three columns; the back building (main hall) has a higher roof and a deeper interior than the front building, with five columns (including the shared column). The two side wings of the house are built of brick on the outside, separated from the seven central bays by a system of wooden walls and doors.

The front and rear sections of the Thai Hoa Palace are connected on a single foundation, with a third secondary truss system at the common column spacing supporting a curved wooden ceiling, known as the "crab shell ceiling." Above this ceiling is no roof, but a large copper trough to collect rainwater from the rear roof of the front section and the front roof of the rear section. This trough receives and directs the water towards the two gable ends and out through two embossed dragon-mouth-shaped drainage outlets.

The front house's truss system is constructed in a "stacked beam - false support" style, featuring intricate structure and carvings. Besides its structural role in supporting the entire tiled roof, this truss system also plays a significant role in creating the aesthetic value of the interior space. The rear house's truss system is simpler, in a "winged truss" style. Almost the entire rear truss system is covered by a yellow-painted wooden ceiling (except for the last column near the back door). This ceiling treatment at the rear emphasizes the spacious front area with its refined and aesthetically pleasing truss system, while also creating a balanced proportion and height for the throne area, facilitating decoration in that space.

The roof of the Thai Hoa Palace is divided into three levels. This was a technique used by Nguyen Dynasty architects to reduce the size and grandeur of the roof, creating a light and graceful element for the structure. The top level (in both the front and back buildings) is the upper roof, with two roof sections at the front and back; next is the lower roof with four roof sections on all four sides; and finally, the veranda roof has a single roof section, running only in the seven central bays and not extending to the two side wings. Previously, the entire roof of the Thai Hoa Palace was covered with yellow glazed tiles (yellow tubular tiles), but now many parts of the roof have been replaced with other types of tiles. The ridge at the top of the roof and the space separating the upper and lower roofs – called the cornice – are divided into many compartments decorated with drawings and poetry. Each compartment with a drawing is followed by a compartment with a poem; this unique "one poem, one painting" decorative style of the Thai Hoa Palace. This style of decoration is also found in the palace interior, but the difference is that instead of different drawings between the panels containing the poems, there are repeating floral patterns.

The spacious interior of the Thái Hòa Palace is resplendent with red lacquer and gold leaf. The throne is placed on a three-tiered wooden platform in the center of the main hall. Behind the throne is a system of partitions separating it from the rear, with doorways in the middle and on both sides.

The Thai Hoa Palace, like many other imperial architectural works in Hue, possesses a majestic and solemn appearance due to its architectural form, yet avoids a somber and melancholic atmosphere thanks to its vibrant colors. The structure harmoniously combines various elements in its design: proportion, rhythm, solid and void spaces, contrast… along with color and decoration; and in its relationship with the surrounding landscape, greenery, and nature.

Thai Hoa Palace is a prime example of Hue's imperial architecture, as well as the palace architecture of the Imperial Citadel in general. It embodies almost all the finest aspects of architectural and decorative art, and construction techniques of the Nguyen dynasty, creating a very distinctive Hue style. It can be said that Thai Hoa Palace represents the pinnacle of Hue's imperial architectural art.

Flying Dragon Space

Thai Hoa Palace is the main palace of the Imperial Citadel, where the emperor's throne was located, and where the emperor's authority was displayed. Therefore, in addition to its vast scale, magnificent architecture, and exquisite decorations, the image of the dragon - the symbol of the monarch - is the main theme in the decorations of this palace.

Dragon imagery is depicted in various locations, using different materials, poses, shapes, and angles. From the courtyard of the Grand Court to the palace steps, dragons are carved on the stone railings. On the veranda, dragons are carved around the veranda columns and stylized on the wooden corbels of the roof support structure. On the roof, dragons are sculpted at the apex, ridge, and gable of the roof levels with the distinctive ceramic mosaic art characteristic of Hue's imperial architecture. The two gable roof drains are sculpted with open-mouthed dragon faces. The dragon decorations on the roof are highly artistic, showcasing the talent of the designers and artisans who built the structure. The dragons on the roof are beautiful and graceful, enhancing the value of the roof and the entire building with their proud appearance reaching towards the blue sky.

The interior of the palace is also decorated with dragons in many places. Eighty ebony wood columns in the palace are painted in red and gold with dragons soaring through clouds on waves. The decorative border around the "Thai Hoa Palace" plaque in front features dragons. Dragons are also carved on the panels in the back wall of the throne. And the throne – the most important and sacred position in the palace – is decorated with a dense concentration of dragon imagery. Dragons are carved on all four sides of the three-tiered platform supporting the throne. Dragons are carved on the wooden border around the canopy, painted on the canopy's roof, and painted on the door behind the throne. Even the details of the chair – the throne – feature stylized dragon figures…

It can be said that the Thai Hoa Palace is the realm of dragons, a space where dragons soar. It is part of the Hue Imperial City and, along with other relics belonging to the Hue Imperial Citadel complex, was recognized by UNESCO as a World Cultural Heritage site in 1993.

The Thanh