Eat like a Saigonese

What do people in Saigon eat for breakfast?

Saigon residents eat breakfast late, but they don't linger; they wake up, eat quickly, and leave quickly. Therefore, eateries are usually crowded with customers between 8 and 9 a.m., but by 10 a.m. most have already cleaned up and closed. Saigon breakfasts offer countless choices, both dry and soup-based, but the most popular are broken rice with grilled pork, banh mi (Vietnamese sandwiches), and hu tieu (noodle soup).

"Is there anyone who comes to Saigon and hasn't tried banh mi?"

Saigon-style banh mi comes with a variety of fillings: pate, cold cuts, shredded pork, fried egg, char siu, etc. Personally, I prefer the pan-fried banh mi on Cao Thang and Dang Tran Con streets. A serving includes a crispy baguette, a plate of vinaigrette salad, and fried eggs, pate, sausage, and cold cuts. Everything is served in a small pan of butter, still sizzling and steaming when brought to your table.

Pan-fried bread in Saigon is very diverse. If you like, you can add cheese; if you don't like fried eggs, you can eat it with beefsteak. The characteristic of this dish is that your bread will be crispy until the last bite, and the food in the pan is heated with butter, making it fragrant and rich but not greasy.

Besides bread, you can also visit a noodle soup stall. You can find Saigon-style noodle soup on almost every street, even if it's past breakfast time, there are still vendors selling it for lunch. However, I prefer the dry noodle soup with a rich, flavorful sauce, shrimp, heart and kidney, minced meat, and a steaming hot bowl of broth on Ton That Thiep Street, District 1. Even though the stall is over 70 years old and has been run by two or three generations of owners, the taste remains unchanged. It's a small stall located in an alley next to the Indian temple, with a worn-out sign that's instantly recognizable.

Saigon residents often prefer a quick breakfast to savor a glass of iced milk coffee. If they have time, they might sit at a roadside coffee shop chatting with friends; if busy, they'll still grab a takeaway coffee. Personally, breakfast can be quick, but coffee is never rushed. I enjoy a leisurely morning at Cheo Leo coffee shop, sipping coffee with true Saigonese. Listening to their stories, their lives, and the old, familiar songs sung by the owner, who's over 50. And if you're curious about the taste of traditional Vietnamese filter coffee, Cheo Leo offers a unique and delightful experience.

Occasionally, instead of coffee, I stop by Phung Khac Khoan for a glass of iced fresh milk. The fresh milk here is fragrant and creamy; just add a few ice cubes and it's delicious enough for breakfast. Especially, the shop is located on a less busy street and is shaded by tamarind trees, so you can sit there until noon without being bothered by the sun.

The exhilarating flavors of Southern Vietnam

One of the favorite lunch options for tourists visiting Saigon is Southern-style banh xeo (Vietnamese savory pancake). If I have foreign friends or friends from other provinces visiting, I usually take them to familiar banh xeo restaurants like Muoi Xiem, An La Ghien, or Banh Xeo Dinh Cong Trang.

Originally from Central Vietnam, Southern Vietnamese people adapted the recipe, making it a signature dish there. I fell in love with banh xeo because of its crispy crust and fragrant coconut milk, served with a variety of fresh vegetables and a delicious dipping sauce. A typical Saigon-style banh xeo is large, with a crispy edge, and filled with bean sprouts, shrimp, and meat. Wrapping the banh xeo with plenty of vegetables and dipping it in sweet and sour fish sauce makes it incredibly addictive.

Another keyword that everyone remembers when talking about Saigon cuisine is "com tam" (broken rice). Saigonese people love com tam as much as Hanoians love pho. If you can't try all the dishes I'm introducing, you absolutely must try com tam because it's a signature dish that has been associated with the people of Saigon for decades. A plate of com tam includes fried shallots, crispy pork cracklings, grilled pork ribs, and sweet and sour pickled mustard greens. Many discerning diners often add pork skin and sausage or a fried egg.

The truth is, even after living in Saigon for many years, you can't possibly try all the delicious dishes here. However, you absolutely must try the authentic Southern Vietnamese cuisine. You can choose crab noodle soup from Cau Bong for dinner, Chau Doc fish noodle soup with sour and unique water spinach for lunch, or find the beloved braised duck noodle soup of the Chinese community. Braised duck noodle soup isn't as common as banh mi or com tam. To enjoy it properly, you need to go to the right restaurants like Luong Ky Mi Gia, Hai Ky, or, even better, Quang Hue Vien, which has been around for over 70 years in Saigon. The noodles are usually chewy and smooth, the broth is rich and fragrant with shiitake mushrooms, and most importantly, the duck pieces are always fried until crispy. If you're a visitor from afar, try bun mam (fermented fish noodle soup), a specialty of the Mekong Delta but quite popular in Saigon because of its unique and rustic flavor.

"Saigon Street Food"

Saigon has many markets and alleyways selling street food. These stalls usually open around 2-3 PM and stay open until evening. Just park your motorbike, walk along the street, stop at a small shop, and you'll be home with a full stomach.

When people visit Saigon, the first thing they mention is snails, because the snail dishes here are so diverse and prepared in countless ways. If you happen to stumble upon a snail restaurant, you'll be surprised by the extensive menu featuring a variety of flavors – sour, spicy, salty, sweet, grilled, stir-fried, steamed… Snail dishes are always a great choice to enjoy with friends.

In addition, there are several Chinese dessert shops that you shouldn't miss when visiting Saigon. Although I don't have a sweet tooth, these desserts always captivate me with their refreshing taste. The most distinctive Chinese desserts include egg white dessert, tea-flavored egg dessert, black sesame dessert, almond tofu dessert, and herbal jelly... just hearing the names makes you want to try them. These desserts often have herbal or traditional Chinese medicine flavors, creating a surprising experience for those trying them for the first time.

If you don't believe that eggs can be used to make sweet soup, you absolutely must try it. The long-standing Chinese community in Saigon has always managed to preserve the unique character of their cuisine. If you visit places like the Chinese sweet soup shop at 85 Co Giang Street, Thanh Tam sweet soup shop on Bui Huu Nghia Street in District 1, Lam Vinh Mau sweet soup shop, or Tuong Phong sweet soup shop (83 An Diem, District 5), you'll have a very unique experience with this signature dish.

Staying awake with the people of Saigon

Saigon residents tend to stay up late, sleep late, and especially enjoy eating at night. So, no matter how late you stay up, you don't have to worry about going hungry in Saigon.

At night in Saigon, if you don't head to the corner of Ly Chinh Thang Street (District 3) for sticky rice, you can also go to the "Hong Kong Quarter" on Ha Ton Quyen Street (District 11) to eat dumplings. This area is usually open all day, but it's only really lively at night; the stalls are still open until 1-2 AM.

Dumplings are one of the famous dishes of the Chinese people. For those who love unique flavors, dumplings are a must-try because they are completely different from steamed dumplings; inside each dumpling, besides minced meat, there is also a shrimp. A bowl of dumplings usually has 6-7 pieces, but it's just the right amount to satisfy your craving, not too filling and not too heavy. Authentic Chinese dumplings have a very light and flavorful broth. To enjoy delicious dumplings, you should dip them in soy sauce, chili sauce, and a little satay sauce. If you're full but don't want to go to sleep yet, you can follow me to find a 24-hour cafe and sit there until morning. And you'll surely be surprised at how crowded the cafe is even at midnight!

People say Saigon doesn't have its own specialties, but everything is a specialty. Because delicious dishes from every province can be found here. And as you can see, it's from these simple, everyday dishes that Saigon has become unique and unforgettable.