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Upon arriving at Lençóis Maranhenses National Park, located in northeastern Brazil, visitors will immediately be overwhelmed by a landscape that is almost surreal and unlike anything else in the world.
Stretching along the eastern coast of the canton of Maranhão is a vast area of 156,562 hectares, of which 90,000 hectares are vast stretches of fine white sand dunes interspersed with thousands of vibrant blue freshwater lakes. Viewed from above, the entire landscape resembles giant bedsheets, an image that inspired the park's name: "Lençóis," which in Portuguese means "bedsheets."
Lençóis Maranhenses (northeast Brazil) is a place where white sand and freshwater lakes coexist, creating an unusual desert where the concept of aridity must be redefined.
Redefining the concept of "arid desert"
Lençóis Maranhenses is a unique exception that defies traditional definitions of deserts. While the world envisions deserts as barren, water-scarce, and scorching lands, this region boasts a semi-humid climate with an average annual rainfall of up to 1,600 mm—a figure unimaginable for a desert.
This region lies in a unique ecological transition zone between three major Brazilian communities: Cerrado, Caatinga, and Amazon, adding to its natural uniqueness. The lake formation mechanism is key to Lençóis' wonder. It consists of an impermeable layer of rock beneath a layer of fine white sand, and another layer of impermeable rock or clay. In addition, the abundant rainy season, lasting from January to June, brings a massive amount of water. The rainwater cannot penetrate the underlying clay, causing it to collect in the sand valleys and form crystal-clear freshwater lakes.
These lakes are usually at their most spectacular from July to August. What makes Lençóis unique is that the lakes regenerate each year in a new location, with a variety of colors, shapes, and depths. Thanks to this phenomenon, Lençóis Maranhenses is known as the "desert of a thousand lakes." On sunny days, visitors can swim in the lakes in the middle of the desert, where the water reflects the clouds, creating the feeling of swimming in the sky.
Despite its desert-like appearance, the area actually has a semi-humid climate, with a rainy season lasting from January to June that brings abundant water.
What adds to the wonder of this place is the ecosystem that exists in the heart of the flooded desert. Although the lakes gradually dry up during the dry season (July to December), restoring the pristine beauty of the sand, life still tenaciously persists. Fish, shrimp, turtles, and waterbirds appear seasonally in the lakes. Particularly noteworthy is the South American lungfish, which has the unique ability to "hibernate" in the mud throughout the dry season, waiting for the rainy season to revive and reproduce. This closed life cycle occurs annually, keeping the ecosystem of Lençóis Maranhenses vibrant and alive.
With an average rainfall of 1,600 mm per year – an unimaginable figure for a desert – Lençóis Maranhenses becomes a unique geological phenomenon, according to The Week.
In addition, strong, unidirectional sea winds contribute to the formation of crescent-shaped sand dunes (barchan), which move between 4 and 25 meters annually. This phenomenon causes the desert to constantly change, creating a continuously evolving landscape that no photograph can replicate.
Lençóis Maranhenses is located in an isolated area on the far edge of Brazil, making its exploration challenging. The most convenient way is to fly to Marechal Cunha Machado International Airport in São Luís – the capital of Maranhão state and a renowned UNESCO World Heritage site. From São Luís, visitors can take a bus (approximately 5 hours) to Barreirinhas – the main and most popular gateway to the park. Another option is to travel from Santo Amaro, which, while less common, offers access to more unspoiled areas.
When the rains come, the water filters through the sand, creating crystal-clear lakes. The best time to admire this unique scenery is from June to August.
Despite its large size, Lençóis Maranhenses is not an overly crowded tourist destination. Visitors can choose from many ways to explore. The most refreshing feeling is immersing yourself in a crystal-clear freshwater lake, completely private, after crossing many white sand dunes under the bright sun.
However, Lençóis Maranhenses faces many challenges. Climate change threatens to reduce rainfall and cause groundwater scarcity, affecting the lives of various species. Furthermore, uncontrolled tourism development and expanding agriculture are also putting pressure on this fragile ecosystem. Nevertheless, every time the rainy season arrives, Lençóis Maranhenses continues to amaze visitors, proving that deserts can thrive and are a rare natural wonder on the planet.
