Searching for the traditional Tet atmosphere

Tet in paintings

One winter afternoon in Hanoi, I returned to visit the Vietnam Fine Arts Museum. Immersed in the elegant atmosphere of the Indochina Fine Arts exhibition hall, I lingered for a long time before the painting "Going to the Tet Market" by artist Nguyen Tien Chung. The image of young, graceful Hanoi women in their ao dai dresses going to the Tet market, with vendors selling Nhat Tan peach blossoms in the distance, was depicted with exquisite detail by artist Nguyen Tien Chung on silk. While Hanoi women have captivated many artists from the Indochina Fine Arts School, Nguyen Tien Chung is the most outstanding artist in this genre.

The scene of celebrating Tet (Lunar New Year) reminded me of the artist Nguyen Tu Nghiem's ​​words: "Every year, towards the end of the twelfth lunar month, artist Bui Xuan Phai and I would split up to paint Hanoi's flower markets, the warm, fragrant countryside markets with the pungent smell of straw, and the lush green rice paddies just planted." Then they would meet at Lam Cafe, 60 Nguyen Huu Huan Street, to discuss celebrating Tet. Their conversation was simple, not about food, but about enjoying the flavors of Tet of the past. In the gentle chill of Hanoi's gloomy late winter days, everyone felt nostalgic and emotional, recalling the beauty of Tet of yesteryear. I sensed the warm, rustic atmosphere emanating from those artistic memories.

In every Vietnamese village, during the last days of the year, the village square becomes a vibrant marketplace. The most beautiful scene is still that of the old Confucian scholars lying sprawled on old mats, inscribing large characters with glossy black ink on crimson paper. Photographer Le Vuong has created many works depicting such scholars. And the interplay of red and black has inspired the poetry of Vu Dinh Lien:

"Every year the peach blossoms bloom."

I see the old scholar again.

Arrange the ink on red paper.

On a busy street."

From the meager provisions of the Tet (Lunar New Year) market, the rows of votive offerings depicting horses and elephants in vibrant colors, the paintings of chickens and pigs by artisans from Dong Ho village, the spotted dragonfly-winged hats of the Kitchen God and the Stove God… the zodiac paintings of artist Nguyen Tu Nghiem were born. He painted all 12 zodiac animals on paper. The pigments in Nguyen Tu Nghiem's ​​hands transformed in a strange way, changing with each passing year: sometimes gentle and carefree, sometimes lively and vibrant. What is evident in his paintings is a life of visual expression contemplated within the cultural framework of the Vietnamese nation, in a feeling of abundant joy that ignites memories and dreams, forgetting all the hardships and regrets of the past year.

Tet (Vietnamese Lunar New Year) in my memories.

The traditional Tet (Lunar New Year) atmosphere is not only preserved in works of art, but also deeply ingrained in the mind of cultural researcher Phan Cam Thuong. For him, Hanoians celebrate Tet with a unique style characteristic of the capital city. After the 23rd day of the 12th lunar month, bidding farewell to the Kitchen God, the festive atmosphere begins to be kindled in each family. “Dong Xuan Market and Bac Qua Market are the most bustling places where mothers and grandmothers come to buy dried goods for the feast: bamboo shoots, dried squid, dried shrimp strung together; grilled mackerel pressed in bamboo strips; and then dried mushrooms, wood ear mushrooms, and shiitake mushrooms. More luxurious options include bird's nest, abalone, Chinese sausage, black eggs, and salted eggs…”, researcher Phan Cam Thuong recalls.

As offices begin their Tet holiday break, the men of the household take on the role of decorating the house and cleaning the ancestral altar. The home decorations of old Hanoi were truly elegant, without the luxuriant peach or kumquat trees flashing with green and red lights; just a branch of pink peach blossoms or a pot of large chrysanthemums placed on an antique porcelain pedestal.

Everyone agrees that the 30th day of the Lunar New Year is the longest day. The New Year's Eve dinner is a sacred time for family reunion, reminiscing about the past, and wishing for new beginnings and success in the coming year. When parting ways, everyone says, "Next year, we will come to wish you a Happy New Year, grandparents and parents." But "next year" is just the next day, the first day of the Lunar New Year!

Hanoi's New Year's Eve is a unique scene that artist Nguyen Tu Nghiem has successfully captured in his magnificent lacquer painting, "New Year's Eve by Hoan Kiem Lake." Proudly displayed in the Vietnam Fine Arts Museum, the work depicts the joyful scene of Hanoians welcoming the new year by Hoan Kiem Lake after years of war. Hoan Kiem Lake, the Turtle Tower, and Ngoc Son Temple have long been a meeting place for Hanoians every New Year. In this peaceful setting, crowds flock here to celebrate New Year's Eve, listen to President Ho Chi Minh's poetry, and await a happy new year.

According to researcher Phan Cam Thuong, only native Hanoians can fully appreciate the quintessential Hanoi atmosphere of spring on the first day of the new year. “The atmosphere is quiet, fragrant, and peaceful. The weather is cool, the streets are spotlessly clean, and a few young couples stroll by, dressed elegantly and tastefully. There is absolutely no sign of vulgar or noisy laughter. A few young women walk across The Huc Bridge to Ngoc Son Temple to offer incense and pray for blessings, holding their robes to prevent them from being blown away by the lake breeze – truly graceful and refined!” Mr. Phan Cam Thuong also shared that on the first day of Tet in Hanoi, very few visitors come to visit, except for the guest chosen by the host to be the first to enter the house – a person believed to bring good luck for the family throughout the year. Therefore, the first visitor must be a complete family with a successful and fulfilling marriage and children.

The Lunar New Year, past and present, is approaching every corner of the country. The age-old dream of the Vietnamese people is a peaceful, prosperous, and fulfilling New Year. Although material wealth may not be abundant, the sense of community, neighborly love, and ancient traditions remain deeply ingrained in the hearts of the Vietnamese.

Tuan Anh