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For generations, the Tet (Lunar New Year) feast has been considered the "soul" of the new year, a gathering place for the essence of heaven and earth and a heartfelt offering to ancestors. When thinking of traditional Tet cuisine, Vietnamese people often picture green banh chung (sticky rice cake), pork sausage, bamboo shoot soup, or a rich and flavorful braised pork with eggs. However, the passage of time and the hustle and bustle of life have inadvertently caused many exquisite royal delicacies and the most elaborate dishes to gradually fall into oblivion.
Cloudy patterns: A "work of art" representing the five elements on a Northern Vietnamese feast table.
In the traditional Hanoi mindset, a truly "luxurious" Tet feast could not be without dishes requiring meticulous preparation, the most representative of which was "moc van am" (cloudy moc). This was not simply a dish, but a work of art, a philosophical arrangement reflecting the Vietnamese worldview. "Van am" – the name evokes the image of clouds obscuring human figures, symbolizing the mystical nature of the earth and sky at the transition between the old and new year.
The swirling patterns, with five colors subtly visible beneath the translucent stone, symbolize the harmony of the five elements and the wish for prosperity in the new year.
To achieve this beautiful appearance, the cook must prepare five meatballs symbolizing the five elements: Metal, Wood, Water, Fire, and Earth. The pure white comes from minced pork, the yellow from gardenia seeds or egg yolks, the green from pandan leaves or vegetables, the vibrant red from gac fruit, and the mysterious black from wood ear mushrooms or shiitake mushrooms. Each meatball must be finely ground, shaped into a perfect, round ball like a precious gem before being steamed to preserve its original color.
The artistry of the "cloudy" meatball dish lies in the process of pouring the jelly-like layer of pork skin. The broth must be simmered from pork bones and skin for many hours, carefully controlled over the heat, and filtered through multiple layers of cloth to achieve crystal-clear transparency. While the broth is still warm, five colorful meatballs are arranged in a bowl, and the broth is poured over them. Once solidified, the bowl is inverted onto a flat plate. The finished product reveals five colors shimmering beneath the translucent jelly, creating a harmonious whole, conveying wishes for a prosperous and successful new year. The absence of "cloudy" meatballs on modern feast tables is not due to expensive ingredients, but rather because modern society lacks the patience to meticulously prepare a bowl of soup with such a delicate, cloud-like appearance.
Sticky rice cake with jam: The charm of the royal court and the sentiment of the people of Hue.
While people in the North value elegance, the people of the ancient capital infused sophistication into even the smallest details, transforming simple local delicacies into dishes fit for royalty. The "Bánh bó mứt" (a type of traditional Huế cake) is a testament to the refined lifestyle and appreciation for nature's bounty of the past.
These slices of cake wrapped in colorful jam, resembling exquisite mother-of-pearl, embody the elegance and refined style of the ancient capital of Hue.
Legend has it that every family in Hue had a small garden filled with various fruits. When in season, these fruits were carefully preserved in jam, dried, and stored in earthenware jars. During Tet (Vietnamese New Year), people would mix ginger jam, kumquat jam, winter melon jam, carrot jam, etc., with fragrant roasted glutinous rice flour, black sesame seeds, and roasted peanuts. What makes banh bo (a type of wrapped cake) unique is the "bundling" technique. The artisans use pristine white palm leaves to tightly wrap the mixture, pressing firmly to create square, sturdy cakes.
The most magical part of the jam-filled rice cake is when you use a sharp knife to cut it into thin slices. Each slice reveals vibrant interwoven colors: the red of carrot jam, the yellow of kumquat, the white of pumpkin jam, and sprinkled with deep black sesame seeds. Overall, the slice looks like an exquisite mother-of-pearl inlay or a three-metal mosaic often seen in palaces. The delicate sweetness of the fruit jam, combined with the strong aroma of ginger and the chewy texture of the glutinous rice, makes the diner feel as if the very breath of spring in Hue is slowly dissolving on their tongue.
The harmonious combination of fragrant roasted glutinous rice flour and home-grown fruit preserves creates a Tet treat that once graced the lavish banquet tables of the royal court.
Fish ball soup: The subtlety hidden in every bite.
Besides "mọc vân ám" (a type of noodle soup), "canh bóng thả" (pork skin soup) is also a specialty dish requiring the skillful techniques of a Northern Vietnamese chef. The soul of the dish is the pork skin. To achieve the highest level of excellence, the pork skin must be selected from thick, clean, white loin skin, then cleaned with white wine and ginger to completely remove any odor. After cooking, the pork skin must expand evenly, soaking up the delicate chicken broth while still retaining its characteristic crunchy texture.
A steaming bowl of fish ball soup, with its pristine white pieces of fish ball, garnished with carrot flowers and peas – a symbol of abundance and sophistication in Northern Vietnamese cuisine.
The sophistication of the meatball soup lies in its accompanying "toppings." These include skillfully carved carrot flowers, vibrant green peas, premium dried shrimp, and small, delicate meatballs. A truly authentic bowl of meatball soup must encompass a full spectrum of colors and flavors, creating a dazzling spring scene on the table. Today, although meatball soup still exists, the refined way of "dropping" the meatballs and the clear, oil-free broth of the old-fashioned family cuisine is gradually becoming a luxury.
The clear, delicate broth is characteristic of the fish ball soup served at the New Year's Eve dinner.
The gradual disappearance of these dishes from modern Vietnamese feasts leaves a significant void in Vietnamese culinary culture. As industrial life takes center stage, convenience is prioritized, and processed foods gradually replace dishes requiring meticulous preparation. However, cuisine is not just about eating; it's also about aesthetics, the philosophy of yin and yang, and the aspirations our ancestors instilled in each product.
Nevertheless, in recent years, a strong wave of cultural revival has been rising. Passionate culinary artisans and the younger generation who love heritage are striving to bring dishes like "mọc vân ám" (a type of Vietnamese sausage) or "bánh bó mứt" (a type of Vietnamese jam-filled rice cake) back to the spring festival table.
Vietnamese Tet cuisine is an invisible thread connecting the past with the present. Amidst the vibrant atmosphere of the days leading up to Tet Binh Ngo, when the scent of incense wafts in the spring breeze, honoring "lost" dishes is a way to enrich our souls. A Tet feast doesn't need to be extravagant in terms of material possessions, but if it includes dishes that hold historical significance, the atmosphere of family reunion will undoubtedly become more solemn and warm than ever before.
