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Before my trip to the capital of Thailand, many people told me that Bangkok was just a city with bustling and flashy shopping malls, roads with 8 lanes of traffic, rush hour filled with dust and a few famous temples. But I didn’t believe what people said. So I went!
Bangkok seen from the canal
Coincidentally, on the way from the most famous Pad Thai restaurant in Bangkok back to the hotel in Thong Lor, Google Maps suggested the fastest route with two trains on the Khlong Saen Saeb canal. I exclaimed to my companion in surprise: "Let's go, hurry up, the train leaves in 15 minutes!". I was excited as if I had found gold, because many days of traveling by taxi and BTS made me a bit bored. Everything looked so simple, somewhat pleasant, making the explorer in me cool down when I arrived in Bangkok. Only when I heard that I could take a boat to move around, did I suddenly "rekindle" the fire in me.
The intricate network of canals means that boat travel is not a new experience, having been the main form of local transport since the 19th century. Some canal systems are still in full operation, but most have been filled in to make way for Bangkok’s ever-expanding urban landscape. The two main, historic canals that can still be found in the city today are Khlong Saen Saeb and Khlong Phadung Krung Kasem. Today, canal boating is an essential means of transportation for students, workers, and even expats working in the city. But for many visitors, cruising the canals is the most exotic, exhilarating experience during their stay in Bangkok.
Navigating the canals was not an easy experience. The boats seemed to go in all directions and the drivers followed no particular direction. On the stretch of canal I had to cross to get to my hotel, they were sometimes parked on the left side of the boat dock, sometimes on the right. Ticket agents walked briskly along the sides of the boats, collecting tickets with ease, letting the water splash and the boat sway. They looked like professional acrobats dancing in the dirty water.
The boat runs very fast on the canal, dirty water splashes up, as if the driver is racing with an invisible boat next to him. Be prepared and pull up the nylon cover to avoid being splashed. The safest position is to stand in the middle of the boat, where there are many people to shield you. That experience really made my heart stop, but inside I was happy because traveling is not only to feel the luxurious and classy beauty of foreign lands, but also to feel the most ordinary slices of life.
Along the canal, you will see both seriously degraded slums, wealthy areas, famous architectural works located close to the canal such as Jim Thompson House or famous pagodas. If you do not have an exact location to go, I suggest you try getting off at a random stop and walking to explore this very typical residential area.
A very important note is that the boat has a fairly short waiting time, you should follow the GPS map to see if the next stop is at the right or left pier to weave through the crowded crowd on the boat and wait at the side where you need to get off.
Bangkok of Contemporary Art
If you only come to Bangkok to enjoy the cuisine and visit the temples, you will miss another perspective of Bangkok because this city is the most attractive space for developing contemporary art, comparable to Taipei or Singapore.
Although not new, MOCA Bangkok with its huge space has always been on my bucket list before coming to Thailand with 6 floors and 5 floors filled with experimental and strong-pointed sculptures and paintings. I was really attracted by Thai religious works using modern color techniques to create a completely different perspective on this topic. The animations highlighting the philosophy of cause and effect are also the point that will make any viewer stunned. The time you need to spend to go through MOCA is up to 3 or 4 hours.
The River City area is famous for tour tourists as it is the place where the boat docks to go to ICON SIAM and also the space for impressive art. You will find two main exhibition areas: one area displays paintings, sculptures, and photography works by independent artists with mainly commercial purposes; the other is a digital art exhibition area that uses sound and images from projectors to introduce the works of countless famous artists in the world. In particular, this is an "on rotation" exhibition (changing over time) so the exhibition content will change continuously.
In addition, Bangkok Art & Culture Center (BACC) is a space that nurtures Bangkok's growing contemporary art scene, with works ranging from painting and design to music, theater and film. Located just a few minutes' walk from the BTS National Stadium station, it hosts a number of seasonal exhibitions by Thai and international artists. BACC is open free of charge from 10am - 9pm every day, except Mondays. Although my feeling is that this space is not up to the level of MOCA or River City, since it is free, why not visit to learn more about Bangkok? There are also quite a few craft shops, art shops selling unique items and there are art performances on weekends.
Bangkok from street food perspective
I’m not saying that the food in shopping malls is bad, sometimes it’s delicious and very unique because of the art of fusion between traditional and contemporary flavors. But I’m a nostalgic person, I love the old things with stories that go with the years in small roadside eateries, independent cafes far from the city center. Such places give me the feeling that I’m experiencing things that many hurried travelers often miss.
My companion took me to Saew - a small, old and shabby restaurant on Klang Alley - with a simple invitation: "My friend who has lived in Bangkok for 5 years told me about this place. And every time I come to Bangkok, I come to Saew to eat a few times." There are more restaurants on Klang Alley than I imagined, most of them are modern, following the usual fusion style, but Saew noodle shop stands out with its rustic appearance.
I ordered Thai fishball noodles to eat, and my friend ordered rice noodles. The first impression was the moderate spiciness, the freshness of the ingredients and the richness of the broth that made each spoonful of noodles awaken the taste buds. I also ordered a cup of chrysanthemum tea and the taste of this chrysanthemum tea was better than expected, so I had to order two cups to satisfy my craving. The surprising thing is that Saew is very cheap, only from 50 to 70 THB, the same price as the common bowls of noodles that we often see, but the taste is better than expected.
After Saew noodles, I went to Pad Thai - the national dish of the Thai people, helping to bring Thai cuisine closer to foreign diners. Perhaps because of the name that is easy to pronounce and easy to remember, but the important thing is the impressive mix of ingredients in each plate of Pad Thai. A standard plate of Pad Thai will include a piece of cake (like vermicelli), bean sprouts, raw chives, roasted peanuts, meat or seafood, chili powder, and lime to create a strong combination and stimulate the taste buds. However, to eat the famous Pad Thai dish, you will have to wait a long time, especially Pad Thai from the legendary Thipsamai restaurant. Mentioned in every newspaper and culinary magazine in the world from CNN to the New York Times, Thipsamai always prides itself on bringing diners the most unforgettable Pad Thai dishes.
Located on Maha Chai Road, Thipsamai opens at 5pm, but by 4:30pm there were already long lines of diners waiting. I arrived early so I was lucky to be one of the first to enter the restaurant, and was given a side menu introducing the special tiger prawn Pad Thai, as tiger prawns are limited in quantity so Thipsamai doesn’t make too much every day. It’s quite expensive at 500 THB but you won’t regret it with two tiger prawns arranged in a heart shape on the restaurant’s signature orange Pad Thai. And after just a few chopsticks, I was satisfied with this excellent dish of Thipsamai.
I found out about Jay Fai while watching Netflix, there was a new show called Street Food: Asia advertised on the homepage. The owner - Ms. Jay Fai - looks tough but she finds joy in cooking. All the dishes at the restaurant are made by her own hands over the past few decades. At Jay Fai, the most famous dish is the crab omelet which costs up to 700 THB but just try it once and you will not regret it. You can also order Tom Yum because although they also have Pad Thai, it is not really rated as highly as Thipsamai. In particular, you need to make a reservation in advance via email or come before opening time (2 pm) to queue for a seat.
More information
- Canal boat system
Opening hours: 5:30 - 22:00 every day
Ticket price: from 15 - 30 THB/trip, depending on the destination you need to go to
- MOCA Museum of Contemporary Art
499 Kamphaengphet 6 Road, Ladyao, Chatuchak, Bangkok
Opening hours: 10:00 - 18:00 (closed Monday)
Entrance fee: 250 THB/adult, bring student ID for discount
- Art Exhibition at River City
Address: 23 Soi Charoen Krung 24, Khwaeng Talat Noi, Khet Samphanthawong, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon
Opening hours: 10:00 - 22:00
Entrance fee: free for private area; 350 THB/person for digital art gallery
- Bangkok Art & Culture Centre
Address: 939 Rama I Rd, Khwaeng Wang Mai, Khet Pathum Wan, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon
Opening hours: 10:00 - 21:00 (except Monday)
Entrance fee: free
- Thipsamai Restaurant
Address: 313 315 Maha Chai Rd, Khwaeng Samran Rat, Khet Phra Nakhon, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon
- Jay Fai Restaurant
Address: 327 Maha Chai Rd, Khwaeng Samran Rat, Khet Phra Nakhon, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon
