VI
EN
When the hillside turns into a carpet of flowers
When Ta Chi Nhu is mentioned, many people immediately think of its title as the "roof of Yen Bai" with an altitude of over 2,900 meters. But what makes this mountain different from the many other peaks of Northwest Vietnam is not its steep slopes or the swirling clouds. It's the moment each autumn when the entire mountainside is covered with chi pau flowers – tiny purple flowers that bloom for only about a short month.
In Northwest Vietnam, the pau flower is not an unfamiliar flower. In Mu Cang Chai, Sa Pa, or Hoang Lien Son, you can find clusters of delicate purple flowers. However, only in Ta Chi Nhu do the pau flowers bloom in a sea of blossoms, stretching from the mid-slopes almost to the summit, creating a rare spectacle. The clusters of flowers are densely packed together, leaning against each other, making travelers feel as if they are lost in a velvet carpet of deep purple.
The unique beauty of the pau flowers on Ta Chi Nhu lies in how they blend seamlessly with the landscape. In the morning, when clouds still swirl in the valley below, the dew-drenched flowers glisten like precious pearls. By midday, the gentle golden autumn sun bathes the entire mountainside in a layer of color that is both pure and ethereal. And as evening falls, the purple clouds and flowers merge, blurring the boundary between sky and earth.
The color purple adds to the allure of Ta Chi Nhu.
Ta Chi Nhu has long been a destination for adventure enthusiasts due to its rugged terrain and rocky paths. But since the chi pau flower became a unique "trademark," the number of people seeking to visit this place has increased even more.
The scenery is particularly appealing to photography enthusiasts. Amidst the fluffy white clouds, a small makeshift tent pitched on the ground is all that's needed, surrounded by blooming flowers. Perhaps that's why, every autumn, social media is flooded with stunning photos from Ta Chi Nhu, transforming this previously little-known mountain into one of the most sought-after autumn destinations in Northwest Vietnam.
The flowers of the Chi Pau tree bloom in clusters on the ground, reaching about ankle height.
More than just a sight to behold, the pau flower has become a connecting thread between humans and nature. At an altitude of nearly 3,000 meters, when breaths are ragged by the cold wind, seeing the tiny flowers still blooming resiliently feels like a boost of strength to continue the journey, culminating in an overwhelming feeling of joy upon reaching the summit.
The preciousness of the pau flower lies in the fact that it only appears for a very short period. In September and October, when the weather turns cool, the pau flowers bloom simultaneously, then quickly close. Therefore, those who have witnessed this sea of purple flowers feel fortunate. Many are willing to return year after year just to see Ta Chi Nhu in its pure purple blossoms. One of them is photographer Nguyen Trong Cung, who is familiar with trekking routes on most of the mountain peaks in Northern Vietnam.
Trekking route amidst the slopes of the Chi Pau flower.
Photographer Nguyen Trong Cung has just returned from a trekking trip during the season of the Chinese hibiscus flower. The 24 km round trip wasn't too difficult for him; however, he advises trekkers, no matter how familiar the terrain, to prepare thoroughly to ensure safety.
Starting from Xa Ho commune, Tram Tau district, the journey usually lasts two days and one night. The trail initially passes through corn and rice fields, then gradually turns into steep slopes with bamboo forests, cardamom forests, and patches of white reeds. As you ascend higher, the trees thin out, revealing the wide-open sky and layers of clouds hovering just below. In September and October, the purple blossoms of the chi pau flower begin to appear along the way, scattered in small clusters before blooming into a carpet of flowers at the summit.
On the trekking route to the summit of Ta Chi Nhu, visitors will pass through patches of chi pau flowers, gradually becoming sparser to denser and more abundant on the mountain slopes.
For a smooth trip, visitors should hire a local porter to help carry belongings and guide them. Essential items include warm clothing, raincoats, basic medicine, a power bank, and a headlamp. During the rainy season, the paths are prone to slipperiness, so monitoring the weather forecast is crucial. And above all, climbers need to be environmentally conscious and avoid littering to keep the Chi Pau flower slopes intact.
Sea of flowers under the starry sky
While Ta Chi Nhu is captivating with its purple hues during the day, it transforms into a different world as night falls. At an altitude of nearly 3,000 meters, the sky is less obscured by urban lights, creating ideal conditions for viewing the Milky Way and countless constellations.
Mr. Nguyen Trong Cung shared: "At this altitude, if the sky is clear, the Milky Way is clearly visible right before your eyes. Above is the starry sky, below is the carpet of chi pau flowers; such a sight is hard to find anywhere else."
Many photographers come to Ta Chi Nhu not only to photograph the flowers but also to capture the starry sky blending with the purple hues. When the weather is dry and cold, the flowers become even more vibrant and the stars even clearer. This rare combination of mountain nature and the vast universe makes Ta Chi Nhu a special destination for both trekking enthusiasts and astrophotography lovers.
Under the cold, dry weather of September and October, the colors of the Chi Pau flowers become even more beautiful and striking.
Compared to other familiar mountain flowers like the buckwheat of Ha Giang or the wild sunflowers of Moc Chau, the pau flower of Ta Chi Nhu possesses a beauty that is less eloquent but easily touches the heart. Not vibrant, not spreading across villages, it quietly blooms only in the highest, harshest places. It is this very scarcity that makes each flowering season a highly anticipated event for travel enthusiasts.
