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This bun rieu (crab noodle soup) stall has been around since Ms. Yen used to sell in the Hang Bun area of Hanoi. From the very beginning, she has personally cooked each pot of bun rieu using the freshest ingredients, preserving the traditional flavor of this dish. Many regular customers know the stall because of its reputation for delicious, hearty bowls of bun rieu with a rich broth made from fresh freshwater crabs and Hanoi fermented rice vinegar.
Over time, Ms. Yen decided to hand over the shop on Hang Bun Street to her son to continue passing on her passion and the family business. She then moved to Hang Khoai Street and is currently in Luong Su Alley – where Ms. Yen, along with Mr. Viet and his wife, their daughter, and son-in-law, are continuing to run this special bun rieu (rice noodle soup) shop. Mr. Hoang Minh Viet, the current owner, said that Ms. Yen sold bun rieu from a mobile stall from 1991 to 1994. “Now that my mother is older, she can’t sit on the sidewalk selling forever, so I advised her to move here,” he said.
The cafe is nestled in a small corner of the street.
The restaurant's ambiance transports diners to another reality.
Nestled deep within a small alley at the beginning of Quoc Tu Giam Street, this restaurant stands out with a space unlike any other in Hanoi. At first glance, it seems modest and simple, like many other eateries in the Old Quarter, but upon entering, diners will immediately feel the difference. The interior is meticulously decorated, creating a sense of "classical aristocracy," as if transported to an old Hanoi, yet full of elegance. Antique items, from ceramic vases and tea sets to wall paintings, were all personally selected and arranged by Ms. Yen's daughter. Every bowl, pair of chopsticks, and even the spice jars were carefully chosen to create a refined and artistic dining experience.
This sophisticated decor not only creates a highlight for the restaurant but also honors the traditional cultural values of Hanoi. Customers who come here not only enjoy a bowl of bun rieu (crab noodle soup) but also immerse themselves in a cultural and artistic atmosphere, as if they are transported back in time to bygone eras. The lighting in the restaurant is designed to be soft, neither too bright nor too dark, creating a warm and gentle atmosphere.
But the ambiance alone isn't enough; what truly makes this restaurant famous is the unique flavor of its crab noodle soup (bún riêu) that Ms. Yến brings. A bowl of bún riêu here is a delicate blend of many traditional ingredients, each meticulously and carefully prepared. The broth is the biggest highlight, with its naturally sweet flavor from fresh freshwater crab, combined with the light sourness of fermented rice vinegar, creating a harmonious taste. Crispy fried tofu, chewy pork ear sausage, fish cake, beef, and fragrant crab paste topping are skillfully arranged on top of the bowl. Each bowl is also sprinkled with fragrant, crispy fried onions, enhancing the rich flavor. Once you've tried it, it's hard to forget this special taste.
A complete bowl of bun rieu at this restaurant includes rice noodles, broth, fresh onions, dried onions, crab paste, fried tofu, snails, pork ear and shiitake mushrooms, Hai Phong fish cake, fresh beef, and beef meatballs. Besides the two main ingredients, crab paste and fried tofu, which remain constant, customers can order additional toppings as desired.
A noodle soup restaurant with a full range of toppings.
The customers at the restaurant are of all ages, from young people wanting to explore traditional cuisine to older people seeking the familiar taste of Hanoi's bun rieu (crab noodle soup). Many customers are from far away, having heard about the restaurant and not hesitating to come and experience it. Each person has their own impression of the restaurant, but the common point is that everyone feels the specialness in every detail, from the interior design to the flavor of the food. Some regular customers, whenever they come to Hanoi, must visit Ms. Yen's bun rieu restaurant to enjoy a rich and flavorful bowl of bun rieu, as if it were an unmissable habit.
Those who listen to rock music will recognize him as Viet James - a member of the band "Red Tide".
Viet confided that he didn't expect his restaurant to attract so much attention on social media. For him, expanding the business or changing to follow trends isn't the goal right now. What he truly wants is to keep things as they are, so the restaurant can maintain stability and preserve the traditional flavor of the noodle soup. He shared that sometimes, you don't need to change too much; just doing what you already have well, keeping the noodle soup fragrant and authentic, is enough to satisfy customers and make them want to return.
More than just a noodle soup stall, Bun Ziu Ganh - owned by Ms. Yen in Luong Su alley - has become a cultural destination, where diners can immerse themselves in a distinctly Hanoi atmosphere, not only enjoying the food but also appreciating the preserved cultural values. For Ms. Yen and her family, this noodle soup stall is not just a business but also a source of pride, a love for traditional cuisine, and a place where they can share their passion and the cultural essence of Hanoi with everyone.
In a small corner of the street is the business of Mr. Viet's family.
A cozy, warm, and "aristocratic" space.
