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The ancient Thang Long, having undergone countless transformations over nearly a thousand years, has evolved into the prosperous and bustling Hanoi of today. Generations and talents from all corners of the land have gathered to form communities and neighborhoods. From these communities, the names of the streets and neighborhoods have become inextricably linked to the history of this capital city.
Having endured countless wars and conflicts, the people of Hanoi have often abandoned their courtyards and gardens due to foreign invasions. The old village gate has opened and closed during turbulent times; it may no longer be intact, but the banyan tree, the well in the village square, and the image of that village gate remain deeply rooted in the consciousness of every person.
The image of that village gate remains deeply ingrained in the subconscious of every person.
Urbanization has gradually transformed the city into concrete and steel structures, causing historical landmarks to fade away. While the visual aspects have changed, the image of the ancient villages of Thang Long still endures in the hearts of generations. Thang Long, once surrounded by villages and communes, has now become districts and wards, with only the village gates leading to the old paths and lanes remaining.
According to the book "Village Gates of Hanoi Past and Present" by Vu Kiem Ninh, 109 village gates and stories of village culture were collected from 8 districts and 5 counties of Hanoi through folk tales, village festivals, and inscriptions at these gates. In 12 inner-city districts of Hanoi, there are still village gates: Hoan Kiem District has 2 village gates, Ba Dinh District (4 village gates), Cau Giay District (9 village gates), Dong Anh County (22 village gates), Dong Da District (1 village gate), Gia Lam County (9 village gates), Hoang Mai District (7 village gates), Long Bien District (6 village gates), Soc Son County (2 village gates), Tay Ho District (10 village gates), Thanh Tri County (17 village gates), Thanh Xuan District (2 village gates), and Tu Liem County (18 village gates).
An Tho communal gate
Village within the city
Within the city center, Thuy Khue Street is often mentioned, famously known as the "Village Gate Street," because it was formerly Ke Buoi, and still retains many traces of the old village amidst the modern city. Located in Tay Ho District, it is a long street running parallel to the southern bank of West Lake. Despite its many historical ups and downs and events, Thuy Khue, nestled amidst modern life, still retains a touch of the old-world charm.
Ho Khau Village Gate
The villages in Thuy Khue differ from one another, from the appearance of the people to the village gates. Each gate has its own size and appearance, making them difficult to confuse with others. The first gate along Thuy Khue road, descending from Buoi slope and intersecting with Buoi market, is the gate of Yen Thai (or An Thai) village. An Thai village used to have many gates leading into the village. According to local people, the gates were given simple, easy-to-remember names: An Thai Gate, Hau Gate, Gieng Gate, Xanh (Canh) Gate... It was called Gieng Gate because the well in Yen Thai village was always clear and green, a name famously known in folk songs.
"The Yen Thai well is both clear and cool."
Yen Thai Street is paved with bricks, making it easy to walk on.
Dong Xa Village Gate
The villages in Ke Buoi were once paved with blue stone slabs, which, according to the elders, meant that even in heavy rain, the paths remained clean, dignified, and tidy, reflecting the refined lifestyle of the people of Ke Buoi.
"The wind sways the bamboo branches gently."
The bell of Tran Vu, the rooster's crow at Tho Xuong
Thick fog and mist spread everywhere.
"The rhythm of the pestle in Yen Thai, the mirror-like surface of Tay Ho Lake."
Ho Khau Village Gate
The rhythmic pounding of pestles has echoed for a thousand years, yet the traditional craft of making dó paper has vanished, the ancient wells have been filled in, and Yên Thái has entered folk songs, evoking a time of vastness like the waves of West Lake. Amidst a bustling urban area, Yên Thái stands quietly, its red brick gate leaning against the wind and mist, whispering stories of ancient times. It is rare in the heart of the capital to still have an ancient village, with the characteristic alleyways and lanes of a Northern Vietnamese countryside.
Local customs and traditions are deeply ingrained in every village, near or far, preserving traditions since their inception. A large plaque hanging above the village gate bears the four characters "Mỹ tục khả phong" (Beautiful customs worthy of praise), bestowed by the Emperor in the 19th year of the reign of Emperor Tự Đức. Passing through the village gate, outsiders seem to conform to these old customs and traditions, escaping the hustle and bustle, leaving behind the breath of the city behind the steps of the village gate.
The village of Thuy Khue, located on an even-numbered street, was once surrounded by a series of guilds and craft villages along the edge of West Lake, creating a vibrant and refined area with traditional crafts that have been passed down through generations. Following Yen Thai village, also on the Thuy Khue street axis, is An Tho village. The village has three gates: the An Tho communal house gate, the Hau gate, and the Xanh gate. The people of An Tho, past and present, are still proud of their imposing communal house gate, which retains its mossy patina to this day.
"The Su Shui cycle of literary schools is far-reaching."
"Li Cheng's brushstrokes depict a high-pitched, poetic style."
Amidst the bustling capital city and its whirlwind of urbanization, suddenly the sound of bells, drums, and the rhythmic melodies of folk songs call us home.
The people of An Tho village, steeped in the spirit of Thang Long land, produced many generations of officials and intellectuals for the country. After retiring and returning home, they established a temple here, hence the name "Hau Gate," "Hau" being one of the four glorious titles: Duke, Marquis, Minister, and General.
The Green Gate at the beginning of alley 514 Thuy Khue, also known as the Guard Gate. In the past, the gate served to block the path of bandits entering the village, so there was a guard post. The villagers named it the Guard Gate based on its function as a rampart, which was later mispronounced as the Green Gate.
The gate of Dong Xa village now leads to alley 444 Thuy Khue. According to the elders, it used to have five steps leading up and down, but over time, for convenience with modern planning, these steps were removed. Now, only the gate remains, still intact with its original form, a couplet, and the large inscription "An Dong main road," guiding the footsteps of those entering and leaving.
Green Gate (Canh)
People now walk less, opting instead for vehicles, and the traditional Vietnamese village gates, once composed of steps, have largely lost their original structure designed for pedestrians. Ho Khau village boasts the most gates in Ke Buoi, with three large, imposing, and sturdy ones. Sadly, however, all have been renovated and restored, losing their former appearance. Only the steps at the main gate remain, preserving some of the distinctive cultural features.
As long as the villagers remain, the village traditions remain, and the soul of the village remains intact.
Praise be to the saying "Beautiful customs worthy of emulation," which has ingrained in the hearts of every villager the ways of life and old traditions that have been recorded as standards. Northern Vietnamese villages have long been associated with the village gate. For generations, people have entrusted their joys and sorrows, their hopes and dreams, to this gate, as the song "The Village Gate by the Sea" says, "Send it here, send it here, the joys and sorrows of the Vietnamese people…"
The villages of the culturally rich capital, like many other villages in Northern Vietnam, have witnessed countless changes over the past hundred years, their bamboo hedges rustling through the landscape. Village gates have been demolished and rebuilt, but the soul of the village and its people seems to remain hidden everywhere. The enduring existence of these villages through countless upheavals seems inexplicable by the knowledge gained in school, but through the perspectives and empathy of people, they realize that this fundamental essence endures because of the village's established traditions.
Green Gate (Canh)
The Vietnamese have a belief in "animism," making the village gate an inseparable part of the Vietnamese village's identity. It embodies the aspirations and dreams, or the very essence, of the villagers. Beyond being a barrier separating the inside from the outside, the village gate is also a historical witness, observing the ups and downs of history. The village gate has accompanied the Vietnamese people from the time they first established their villages, and today, it serves as a landmark, guiding those who have left their homeland back home. Such is the way of the times. Only when peace prevails, when people no longer worry about their next meal, do they suddenly realize that even with abundant resources, they still lack a certain soul and spirit.
City dwellers, caught up in the whirlwind of the market year-round, suddenly find themselves overwhelmed by a vague longing. It's then that the voice of the countryside, deep within their hearts, calls them to return. Whether near or far, everyone originates from their hometown. Whether impoverished or wealthy, everyone desires a homeland to return to.
The gate of Yen Thai (or An Thai) village
The connection between people and the countryside, much like the connection between the countryside and the soul of the village, is sometimes forgotten throughout life but suddenly resurfaces. Restoration, as a task of preserving the essence of the village, is not about extravagant renovations, but rather about preserving intangible values. As long as the villagers remain, the village customs remain, and the village spirit remains intact.
Amidst the bustling capital city and its whirlwind of urbanization, suddenly the ringing of bells, the rhythmic beating of drums, and the gentle, melodious strains of folk songs call us home. Then, after days of gathering with family around the dinner table, everyone returns to their own affairs, back to the hustle and bustle of the city, yet the melody of our homeland still resonates in our hearts.
The village gate, after enduring countless storms and tribulations, ultimately remains the most forgiving place, a fortress against the flames of the past, and now continues to support the weariness amidst the hustle and bustle of the city. Standing tall for years, as if still holding onto a glimmer of hope for tranquility beyond its steps, it empowers us to navigate through life's turbulent waves.
Lord's Gate
