Half a century of traveling the world in the world of motorcycle stunts.

Circus profession amidst the changing times

“I am Huynh Nam Quoc, the lead performer of the Hieu Nghia flying motorcycle circus troupe. Beside me are my younger brother Huynh Viet Lao and my fellow performer Nguyen Van Minh,” Quoc briefly introduced himself at the beginning of the story, while his hands nimbly cleaned his old motorcycle before the performance.

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Quoc's family has been involved in motorcycle stunt performances for over half a century. Since his father was one of the first motorcycle stunt performers in Vietnam, this profession has become ingrained in everyone's blood. "I started learning the trade when I was 16, and every technique, from basic to advanced, was passed down from my grandfather," he said with a smile.

Nowadays, motorcycle stunt shows are no longer the "specialty" of entertainment they once were, and audiences are dwindling. These mobile circuses – once bustling venues in many rural areas – are gradually disappearing, and many in the profession have even abandoned them altogether, dismantling their structures for scrap metal to pursue other careers. "This is probably our last trip of the year," Quốc shared. "We only perform during the New Year's festivals; nobody watches on regular days."

Each time they go on tour, the entire extended family of 11, including 7 adults and 4 children, sets off. The circus is the performance venue during the day and becomes the children's sleeping quarters at night. “Everyone in the family has their own responsibilities: my mother and wife sell fried fish balls and mixed rice paper snacks right next to the circus to earn extra income. And when I have free time, I help my wife sell things.” Like many circus performers, Quoc's family doesn't expect to get rich. “Some days we earn 5-10 million VND, but the costs of renting the space, truck, setting up the circus, and food and accommodation already exceed 10 million VND. We go on tour because we love the profession and our parents, but the profit isn't much.”

In the city, he and his wife opened a small restaurant in Soc Trang City, which is their main source of income to support their children and maintain their home. “We only perform circus acts during major festivals. It’s a way to both do our job and have a family reunion.” Even so, when he thinks about passing the trade on to his children, Mr. Quoc hesitates. “I once wanted to teach the two kids, but then I saw my colleagues quit, many theaters were demolished, and I couldn’t bring myself to do it. They deserve a different opportunity to make a living.”

Quoc's father, Huynh Van Niem, now 75 years old, is considered one of the first people to learn and perform motorcycle stunts in Vietnam. He used to perform with many colleagues in the profession, but later branched out to form his own circus troupe and guide his children in the trade. "My family first performed motorcycle stunts in 1962," he recalled.

Memories of the heyday of outdoor circus art remain vivid in his mind. Back in 1983, he performed in Hanoi to packed crowds. Some days he performed nearly a hundred shows and still couldn't meet the demand. His troupe was even invited to train troupes in Japan, Laos, and Cambodia.

Having spent his entire life traveling and performing from the lowlands to the mountains, Mr. Niem has witnessed many of his colleagues having to disband their troupes and sell their theaters for scrap metal to make a living. Only he and his children continue to strive to preserve this unique art form, despite the precarious income and uncertain future.

A performance, a mix of passion and the worry of making ends meet.

In mid-June, the Hieu Nghia flying motorcycle circus troupe set up camp in Phu Tan district, An Giang province – one of the rare stops during the year. They chose the right time, coinciding with a local festival, to capitalize on the influx of visitors. Their tent, constructed from iron and wood, stood out in the open field, surrounded by stalls selling fish balls and soft drinks. The aromas, combined with the circus music, created a unique and unmistakable atmosphere.

"The ticket costs 30,000 VND per person, and the show lasts about 10-15 minutes," Mr. Quoc said. "It includes acts like riding a motorcycle while flying with both hands off the handlebars, riding a motorcycle up a wooden hoop, or cycling around the edge."

The stage is a vertical circle, 5 meters in diameter, made from hundreds of wooden planks joined together. Below is a 1-meter-high basin to provide momentum for the performers. Each time the motorcycle revs its engine, the audience, standing 4 meters above, shakes with each fleeting rotation. The motorcycle used in the performance is also unusual: "The throttle has a lock so that when you release it, the bike still runs steadily. The speed must be at least 40-50 km/h to 'fly' around the wooden circle," Quốc explained.

Before each performance, the entire troupe had to thoroughly check the vehicles, the wooden stage, and the protective gear – because even a small mistake could cause a serious accident. “Viet Lao and I performed on motorcycles, while Van Minh performed on bicycles. In the early days, everyone had to practice with bicycles to get used to the feeling.”

The audience consisted mostly of locals, children, the elderly, and those simply curious or reminiscing about "watching this when I was a child." Some even tipped by holding out money, which the actors would then catch in mid-air in a circle – a scene that usually drew thunderous applause from the audience. After the performance, the entire troupe would bid farewell to the audience, who lingered out of curiosity, emotion, or nostalgia for a bygone era…

Text and photos: Duy Hieu