VI
The history of a name
Los Angeles during the World Cup has a unique vibrancy compared to other summers, not only because of the matches at SoFi Stadium in Inglewood, where the US team played their opening match against Paraguay on June 12th and the city hosted the quarter-final on July 10th, but also because of the feeling that this vast metropolis is generously opening its doors to welcome visitors to explore American culture.
During that journey, amidst familiar choices like Hollywood, Santa Monica, Beverly Hills, or museums and theme parks, the hotel security guard suggested a "delicious, nutritious, and affordable" destination very close to our accommodation. He said that if you're in downtown Los Angeles, you should definitely visit it because it doesn't take much time, doesn't require extensive preparation, but is one of the most charming experiences the city has to offer: Angels Flight Railway.
Walking from the hotel to the small train station in the heart of the city, about a kilometer away, I felt like I was leaving the noisy hustle and bustle of a city during the World Cup season and stepping into a somewhat cinematic setting, where the past and present stand side by side naturally, not competing for attention but quietly complementing each other.
Angels Flight is considered one of the shortest rail lines in the world, measuring just over 298 feet (approximately 90 meters) in length, connecting Hill Street with California Plaza on Bunker Hill. However, what makes it special isn't its modest length, but rather the more than 120-year story of a mode of transport that once served the daily lives of Los Angeles residents before becoming a tourist icon and a symbol of urban memory in the heart of the modern city.
This railway line, which began operating in 1901, was initially known as a cable-driven uphill railway that helped people travel up and down Bunker Hill. It has undergone numerous closures, relocations, restorations, and reopenings to the public, and today, the two carriages named Sinai and Olivet still diligently ascend and descend that short, steep stretch of track, a remnant of the old rhythm amidst a city of cars, skyscrapers, and sleepless avenues.
A bronze plaque inscribed with information about the history of the Angels Flight.
The train station then and now (Photo: LA history)
A one-minute train ride that will leave a lasting impression.
The first fascinating aspect of Angels Flight isn't just the train itself, but the moment of looking down from above, when the two dark orange carriages, like classic toys, slowly move back and forth on the sloping tracks, one going up, the other down, rhythmically like a date that has lasted for over a century.
From the top of Bunker Hill, looking down at downtown Los Angeles, I saw glass buildings, streets full of cars, groups of tourists taking photos, commuters rushing by, and amidst all that modernity, Angels Flight maintained its own pace, slow enough to make one realize that not every memorable experience needs to be grand or expensive.
The way the train boarded also made me laugh because of its simplicity, almost contrary to modern travel habits. Instead of buying tickets in advance, scanning codes, booking times, or queuing, passengers simply step onto the carriage at the lower gate, sit in a small wooden seat, enjoy the journey which lasts less than a minute, and then pay the fare at the counter at the station on the hill. This simple ticket checking method makes the train feel even more friendly, as if it's not a carefully packaged, commercially-oriented tourist product, but rather a part of local life that still retains its rustic charm after so many changes.
Inside the train carriage, the space was so small that just a few people entering made it feel warm with laughter, camera clicks, the sound of shoes on the wooden floor, and the excitement of first-time travelers. I had to squeeze aside to make room for a few young women trying to take selfies, but I only managed to snap a few photos before the carriage was almost at its destination, causing everyone to laugh because the journey was so short that people hadn't even finished posing before they had to get off.
Among the passengers that day was Claudia, a girl from Ireland, who shared with me that she was very impressed with the route because it felt like both a working antique and a mini version of a roller coaster, only everything happened so fast, so fast that "you didn't even have time to recover before you were there." That humorous remark stuck with me because it accurately described the feeling of Angels Flight: too short to be called a ride in the conventional sense, but strange enough to become a lasting memory.
Fernando showed me the train ticket.
The train ticket is a souvenir for many travelers.
At the ticket window, I chatted with Fernando, the ticket seller with a gentle smile and a conversational style that made the journey seem longer with just a minute before. He told me that Angels Flight welcomes thousands of visitors each day, depending on the season. Some come out of curiosity, some because they've seen the place in movies or on YouTube, and some simply want to keep a paper ticket as a souvenir. In an age where everything is moved to phones and QR codes, a small ticket with the train route printed on it can sometimes become a very real memento from the trip.
When Fernando learned I was from Vietnam, he seemed amused and joked that it would probably take a whole month to travel here by train from Vietnam. This joke warmed our brief encounter at the ticket counter, reflecting how strangers in big cities sometimes only need a smile, a few conversations, and a couple of beers during the World Cup to create lasting memories.
During the World Cup season, when travelers often have packed schedules with matches, fan festivals, museums, restaurants, shopping malls, and famous check-in spots, Angels Flight is a great option for families, especially for those who want a relaxed, budget-friendly, easy-to-travel experience suitable for both children and adults. Just a few minutes' journey, a $1.50 ticket, a little curiosity, and a camera ready, and you can step into an iconic Los Angeles landmark, where the shortest train ride has the potential to create a uniquely memorable experience.
Leaving this place, I didn't carry the feeling of having just completed a major sightseeing tour, but rather a small joy, like accidentally picking up an old newspaper in the middle of a modern city.
And perhaps that's why, during my exploration of Los Angeles during the World Cup, amidst the fiery matches and crowds of people from all over the world, that one-minute train ride became one of the most endearing moments, reminding me that sometimes the beauty of America lies not only in grand, magnificent things but also in tiny experiences like my Angels Flight!
