I arrived in Mang Den on a winter's day, the more than 12-hour bus ride almost completely exhausting for someone who loves to travel. Despite preparing beforehand, I didn't expect the Central Highlands cold to be so biting. But it was precisely because of this that the place became so beautifully warm.
Sunset over Kon Bring village
My first few rides took me to Kon Bring, a village of the Mơ Nâm people. Unexpectedly, the locals were so lovely and friendly. After strolling around and admiring the houses and rice fields, a man led us into his house, happily telling us stories, teaching us the local language, and sharing tales of life, Tet (Vietnamese New Year), and the experiences we've had, are having, and will have in this land.
The glasses of wine, the unusual snacks, and the engaging conversation all drew me in. The kitchen smoke, the bowls of noodles, the cozy atmosphere filled with smiles—all of this made the otherwise cold wooden stilt house feel much warmer that day. And I was captivated by the children, those born in this remote mountain region who, for some reason, possessed such beautiful eyes and sunny smiles; they left a simpleton like me utterly mesmerized…
Leaving Kon Pring village, we sped along the long road back home as dusk was falling. While we were still thinking about filling our hungry stomachs, the sunset in Mang Den suddenly captivated us. We decided to stop by a field to admire the magnificent sunset amidst the biting cold. The sky over Mang Den quietly turned red before slowly darkening. We watched until the sky completely turned into night before leaving.
With temperatures nearing 5°C and our stomachs rumbling with hunger, we headed to Xuyen Tieu hotpot restaurant, as suggested by our homestay manager. Stepping inside, we immediately felt the cozy atmosphere, a stark contrast to the biting cold outside. Even now, I still find the restaurant's lovely rules amusing: "No alcohol allowed," "No swearing or using foul language in front of children,"... And I must admit, the food here was incredibly delicious! Although there were only about 4-5 dishes, every single one was top-notch.
Peaceful in Kon Tu Rang
Starting the day with a few warm cups of coffee, we continued our journey to the village of Kon Tu Rang. Seen from above, the tiny, charming houses on the other side of the suspension bridge looked like a miniature village nestled in the vast forest. Later, after talking to the forest rangers, we learned that these were originally just storage sheds where the villagers kept their rice. It was a bit unlucky that we arrived in Mang Den after the rice harvest season, and the fields were somewhat barren; if we had come during the rice ripening, this valley would surely have been a "masterpiece" of the Central Highlands.
Standing on the bridge, we felt the biting cold wind, looking down at the crystal-clear Dak Bla River flowing peacefully through the fields. Children strolled along the riverbank, smiling and waving at me. The atmosphere was filled with peace, permeating every breath of the mountains, rivers, and people of this place. We played by the stream, chatted a little, and before we knew it, it was evening. The roads of the 37-household area captivated the young people – a few small wooden houses on the hilltop, vast fields of burnt grass glowing red in the setting sun over the highlands…
A bonfire flickered in the tranquil space, a few faint lights shining through the smoke, making the place even more magical. In the damp, late-winter air, our campfire burned brightly, yet with the strength of youth and stubbornness, it blazed. The warmth emanating from the fire in the Central Highlands, from the cups of coffee, and from the hands and smiles of our friends, suddenly, somewhere in our chests, a whispered voice echoed, "I love this country, this homeland, a little more now…"
Additional information
Move:From Ho Chi Minh City, there are three main ways to get to Mang Den: sleeper bus (230,000-270,000 VND); luxury sleeper bus (500,000 VND); or flying to Pleiku, then taking a bus to Kon Tum, and finally a bus to Mang Den.
Accommodation:There are many homestays, guesthouses, and hotels in Mang Den, but it's still advisable to book in advance to ensure room availability.
Cuisine:
- TCAs Cafe: Cute and spacious decor, friendly staff, delicious drinks; especially noteworthy is the fireplace and the presence of many dogs.
- Co Sinh's Grilled Chicken and Sticky Rice Restaurant: Located right along the main road; the sticky rice is soft and fragrant, the chicken is delicious, and the grilled meat is also excellent!
- Xuyen Tieu Hot Pot Restaurant: Reasonable prices, enthusiastic staff; the restaurant does not sell alcohol or allow drinking, so the atmosphere is very lovely and cozy.
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