Marie Salamagne and the shell-shaped pastry evoke memories.

21/08/2021

"A good fragrance should be like Proust's madeleine. It has the ability to move and evoke such powerful emotions that they are impossible to suppress, impossible to control. The fragrance is an entity in itself."

In France, locals enjoy sipping.sadleineEvery day. At first glance, madeleines have a cake-like texture, small and about the size of a betel nut, with a shell-like shape, and a rich aroma of eggs, milk, and butter. A skilled chef should create a madeleine that is fragrant and stimulates the sense of smell, with a smooth, undulating, and soft exterior that entices the eye. The moment it touches the tongue, the senses intertwine, and the cake and soul almost "melt" into one.

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The French can remain faithful to madeleine for breakfast, afternoon tea, and evening dessert without ever getting tired of it. And, the muse of the perfume world -Marie SalamagneHe compared the scent he created to be like the madeleine cake in the artwork.Searching for lost timeThis is a story by the great poet Marcel Proust. In the story, on a gloomy, melancholic winter day, Marcel is at a loss. Unconsciously, he sips lemon tea with a piece of madeleine and is startled. He tastes it again, and finds it both strange and familiar. With the third piece of madeleine, he awakens. The aroma and flavor of the cake combined with the fragrant tea dispel his present disappointment, transporting Marcel back to his beautiful, peaceful childhood. "La madeleine de Proust," or "Proust's madeleine," has become a familiar French idiom, referring to an event, emotion, or action that evokes memories.

Chân dung Marie Salamagne

Portrait of Marie Salamagne

Marie Salamagne will become less unfamiliar and more clearly defined if I tell you about the fragrant madeleines Marie used to make. First, perfume.AlaiaAlaia Paris's fragrance evokes the innocent childhood memories of its creator in his native Tunisia. Alaia features a leather-based scent with a vintage, nostalgic, and discreet feel (though for some reason, upon arriving in Vietnam, it "evolved" into a "secretive, feminine" scent). Next,Armani Eau De NuitIt's a men's fragrance with a tobacco leaf center, a collaboration between Marie Salamagne and Armani, and is very popular among men. But that's not all; Jo Malone also has two other captivating fragrances.Tuberose & AngelicaandMimosa & CardamomThese are also two of Marie Salamagne's proudest creations. Other notable works by Marie Salamagne include By The Fireplace for Maison Martin Margiela, Mandarine Basilic for Guerlain, Histoire d'Orangers for L'Artisan Parfumeur, and Aura for Mugler... At a very young age, in 2005, at just 28 years old, Marie Salamagne created a fragrance entirely of her own. Since then, the Parisian muse has quietly and passionately dedicated herself to the continuous creation of perfumes.

Alaia trong trẻo

Alaia is pure and innocent.

Mimosa & Cardamom...

Mimosa & Cardamom...

...một sáng tạo thơm thi vị dành cho Jo Malone

...a fragrant and poetic creation for Jo Malone

By The Fireplace, ngọt ngào &

By The Fireplace, sweet and "scorching" for the winter days.

Born in 1977, the same generation as the renowned Pierre Guillaume (the creator of the chocolate fragrance Musc Maori or the alluring cognac Liqueur Charnelle), after graduating from pharmacy school, Marie Salamagne "broke away" and pursued a career as a perfumer, resolutely refusing to follow in her family's footsteps. Marie Salamagne's case reminds us somewhat of her predecessor.Roja DoveHe also abandoned his career as a pharmacist to become a master perfumer. Marie Salamagne is a woman of few words, always clutching various notebooks with clear purposes: one for notes on fragrances, another for notes on natural aromatic components, and yet another for recording spontaneous ideas/emotions... Marie is quiet but extremely diligent, sensitive to the point of being edgy, and has had the opportunity to learn from master perfumers such as Oliver Cresp (creator of Light Blue For Her for Dolce & Gabbana, Angel for Mugler, Midnight Poison for Dior), Alberto Morillas (CK One for Calvin Klein, 212 for Carolina Herrera, Gucci Bloom for Gucci), Jacques Cavallier (the men's and women's duo L'Eau D'Issey for Issey Miyake, the entire 28-fragrance project for Louis Vuitton to date, M7 for YSL)... After completing her perfumery course, she has been working with Firmenich, the oldest and most influential fragrance company in the perfume industry, since 1970. From 2001 to the present, at Firmenich, working alongside master perfumers, Marie Salamagne's meticulous attention to detail in fragrance formulation is also satisfied by the company's rich and high-quality stock of aromatic ingredients.

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Marie Salamagne cùng các nhà hương tài ba khác của Firmenich

Marie Salamagne and other talented perfumers of Firmenich

Another memorable milestone in Marie Salamagne's career: 2015 marked the birth of the perfume house Atelier Des Ors, and the French fragrance was chosen for a long-term collaboration with this innovative house. This collaboration proved surprisingly effective. The owner of Atelier Des Ors, Jean-Phillippe Clemont, decided to choose Marie Salamagne as his long-term perfumer after observing and contemplating her fragrance creations for a long time. The sparkling Atelier Des Ors bottles, with their delicate gold leaf floating inside, symbolize our romantic memories and emotions, and the name of the perfume house itself, Atelier Des Ors, truly means "workshop of refinements." Atelier Des Ors exchanged olfactory inspirations with Marie Salamagne, and the perfumer diligently brought them to life. Marie Salamagne, along with Firmenich's abundant and exquisite raw materials, created a romantic and evocative fragrance for Atelier Des Ors. Over the past six years, Marie Salamagne has dedicated herself to creating 16 fragrances for Atelier Des Ors.

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Perhaps the most notable example is Rose Omeyyade. Belonging to the Florentine fragrance style – an oriental floral scent, following the traditional Rose-Oud (rose-oud) approach – Marie Malasagme uses Centifolia roses, also known as May roses, to build the essence of this fragrance creation. The Centifolia rose is called May rose because May is the ideal time to harvest this type of rose with thick petals, a fresh, rich, deep, and vibrant aroma. Centifolia roses are grown in Grasse, France, the most important source of aromatic raw materials in the modern perfume industry. Each rose bush yields approximately 80 May roses per season. 80 roses are equivalent to 300 grams of rose petals, and we need... 1 ton of roses to extract about 1 kg of rose essential oil. In its heyday, the 1930s, Grasse exported... 2,000 tons of rose petals to the perfume world each harvest season. Currently, Grasse produces around 100 tons of roses annually, enough to create 100 kg of May rose essential oil, which is then carefully selected and distributed to perfumers worldwide. Firmenich has its own May rose farm, cared for by a family of traditional flower-growing farmers in Grasse. The Rose Omeyyade fragrance by Atelier Des Ors uses this exquisite natural note to create a captivating, blossoming aroma on the skin. Blended with frankincense, the rich, thick-petaled rose seems to shed its skin, exuding a bright, uplifting fragrance that emerges from the deep, calming, and purifying base of the sacred wood note.

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Alongside Rose Oymeyyade, Marie Salamagne connected her childhood passion for painting with perfumery when she created Nuda Veritas for Atelier Des Ors – a fragrance with a minimalist yet unexpectedly memorable character. Nuda Veritas, or "naked truth," a work by painter Gustav Klimt, when perfumed, is as bright as the dawn, as clear as a gentle stream, softly caressing and dispelling all worries from the mind. Skillfully, Marie Salamagne meticulously and precisely uses and balances white floral notes, osmanthus, musk, and ambrox, creating a fresh, pure, tranquil, and clean fragrance that gently caresses the wearer.

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These are two prime examples of Marie Salamagne's creative style. Whether the perfume bottle is intricately mysterious or pure and simple, Marie Salamagne always remains evident and serene. She doesn't create fragrances in a loud, forceful way. Marie Salamagne's scents don't overwhelm the wearer, but rather harmoniously blend into the skin, slowly merging with it, then gradually transforming – reviving, igniting, and gently unfolding layers of fragrance in a vibrant, graceful, enduring, and long-lasting manner. Along with Rose Omeyyade and Nuda Veritas, Marie Salamagne continues to build the reputation of Atelier Des Ors through other highly acclaimed fragrances such as Vanilla Lune Feline, Tobacco Bois Sikar, Iris Fauve, and Sandalwood Rouge Saray...

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"A good fragrance should be like Proust's madeleine. It has the ability to move and evoke such powerful emotions that they are impossible to suppress, impossible to control. The fragrance is an entity in itself."

That was Marie Malasagne, the muse of the world of fragrances, who always believed that the fruits of her creativity had the soul of a small seashell-shaped pastry.

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