Marie Salamagne and the Shell Cake That Calls to Memory

In France, the locals like to sipMadeleineevery day. At first glance, madeleine has a texture similar to a cake, small as a walnut, shaped like a shell, fragrant with the smell of eggs, milk, and butter. If you are a good chef, the madeleine cake you make must be fragrant, stimulating the sense of smell, the outside is smooth, flaky, and soft, provoking the sight, as soon as you put it on the tip of your tongue, blending the senses, the cake and the soul almost "melt" together.

The French can be faithful to breakfast, afternoon tea, and evening dessert with madeleine without ever getting tired. And, the muse of the fragrant world -Marie Salamagnecompared the scent he created to the madeleine cake in the workIn Search of Lost Timeby the great poet Marcel Proust. In the story, on a gloomy and sad winter day, the character Marcel is at a dead end. Unconsciously sipping lemon blossom tea with a piece of madeleine, Marcel is startled. Tasting it again, he finds it strange yet familiar. With the third piece of madeleine, he awakens. The smell and taste of the cake mixed with fragrant tea dispels the current disappointment, bringing Marcel back to the beautiful and peaceful childhood. "La madeleine de Proust", or "Proust's madeleine" has become a familiar French idiom, referring to an event - emotion - action that has the ability to evoke memories.

Marie Salamagne will become less unfamiliar and more defined if I tell you about the fragrant madeleines Marie used to make. First, the perfumeAlaiaby the fashion house Alaia Paris is a scent that evokes his innocent childhood memories in his homeland Tunisia. Alaia's leather theme is somewhat vintage, nostalgic, and discreet (I don't understand why when it landed in Vietnam, it "evolved" into the scent of a "secret bedroom woman"). Next,Armani Eau De Nuitis a men's fragrance with tobacco leaves, by Marie Salamagne in collaboration with Armani, very popular with men. Not stopping there, Jo Malone has two poetic scents:Tuberose & AngelicaandMimosa & Cardamomare also two proud creations of Marie Salamagne. Other notable marks of Marie Salamagne include By The Fireplace for Maison Martin Margiela, Mandarine Basilic for Guerlain, Histoire d'Orangers for L'Artisan Parfumeur, Aura for Mugler... Very young, in 2005, at the age of 28, Marie Salamagne had a scent completely created by herself. From then until now, the Parisian muse has been silently and passionately working on creating fragrances without stopping.

Born in 1977, in the same generation as the hero Pierre Guillaume (owner of the chocolate scent Musc Maori or the inviting cognac Liqueur Charnelle), after graduating from the university of pharmacy, Marie Salamagne "escaped", studying to become a perfumer, determined not to follow in the family business. Marie Salamagne's case more or less reminds us of her predecessor.Roja Dovealso gave up the path of pharmacist to become a master of scent. Marie Salamagne doesn't talk much, always has different notebooks in her hand, with very clear purposes, this one notes on fragrances, that one notes on natural fragrance ingredients, another one records sudden ideas/emotions... Marie is quiet but extremely hard-working, sensitive to the point of being thorny, has the opportunity to learn from master perfumers like Oliver Cresp (creator of Light Blue For Her fragrances for Dolce & Gabbana, Angel for Mugler, Midnight Poison for Dior), Alberto Morillas (CK One for Calvin Klein, 212 for Carolina Herrera, Gucci Bloom for Gucci), Jacques Cavallier (male-female duo L'Eau D'Issey for Issey Miyake, the entire fragrance project of 28 scents up to now for Louis Vuitton, M7 for YSL)... After completing the perfume course, she has worked with Firmenich, the oldest and most influential fragrance-fragrance company in the fragrance field, since 1995. 2001 until now. At Firmenich, working with perfume masters, Marie Salamagne's meticulousness in the fragrance preparation process is also satisfied by the company's rich and quality aromatic raw material warehouse.

Another memorable milestone in Marie Salamagne's career: 2015 marked the birth of the perfume house Atelier Des Ors, and the French beauty was chosen to collaborate long-term with this new perfume house. This is truly a surprisingly effective collaboration. The owner of Atelier Des Ors, Mr. Jean-Phillippe Clemont, decided to choose Marie Salamagne as a long-term collaborator, after a long time of observing and contemplating her fragrant creations. The beautiful sparkling Atelier Des Ors bottles with floating gold leaves inside, in fact, symbolize our romantic memories and emotions, and the name of the perfume house, Atelier Des Ors, truly means "workshop of refinement". Atelier Des Ors discussed with Marie Salamagne the scent inspiration, and the perfume artist worked hard to create it. Marie Salamagne, together with Firmenich's rich and quintessential treasure trove of raw materials, has created for Atelier Des Ors a romantic and seductively evocative fragrance. For 6 years, Marie Salamagne has devoted herself to creating 16 scents for Atelier Des Ors.

The most notable is probably Rose Omeyyade. Belonging to the Floriental fragrance style - oriental floral fragrance, following the traditional Rose-Oud, rose-dark direction, however, Marie Malasagme used Centifolia rose, also known as May rose, to build the foundation for this fragrant creation. Regarding the Centifolia rose variety, it is called May rose because this is the most ideal time to harvest this thick-petaled rose, with a fresh, rich, deep and lively fragrance. Centifolia rose is grown in the most important "warehouse" of aromatic materials in the modern fragrance industry, the city of Grasse, France. Each rose bush produces about 80 May roses per season. 80 roses are equivalent to 3 ounces of roses, and we need... 1 ton of roses to extract about 1 kg of rose essential oil. During its heyday, in the 1930s, each harvest season, Grasse produced... 2,000 tons of rose petals for the world of fragrance. Currently, Grasse maintains about 100 tons of roses each year, enough to create 100 kg of May rose essential oil, which is then carefully considered for perfumers around the world. Firmenich has its own May rose farm, tended by a traditional family of flower farmers in Grasse. And the Atelier Des Ors Rose Omeyyade fragrance uses this quintessential natural note to create a lingering scent that blooms on the skin. Blended with agarwood, the thick-petaled rose seems to be transformed, exuding a bright fragrance, rising from the deepness of the sacred woody note that has the ability to calm and cleanse.

Besides Rose Oymeyyade, Marie Salamagne connects her childhood passion for painting with perfume when she continues to create for Atelier Des Ors a scent with a minimalistic nuance, but with an unexpectedly memorable ability - Nuda Veritas. Nuda Veritas, or "naked truth", a work by artist Gustav Klimt, when perfumed, is as bright as dawn, as clear as a small stream, gently caressing, removing all worries in the mind. Very skillfully, Marie Salamagne uses - carefully and precisely seasoned notes of white flowers, osmanthus, musk and ambrox, creating a pure, pristine, calm and clean fragrance effect, thus caressing the lover of fragrance.

These are two typical examples of Marie Salamagne's creative style. Whether the perfume bottle is mysterious and sophisticated or simple and clear, Marie Salamagne is always clear and calm. She builds her scents without being noisy or loud. Marie Salamagne's scents do not rush over the smeller, but harmoniously press on the skin, slowly blend into the skin, and from there gradually transform - revive, ignite and then gently release layers of scent in a lively, graceful, durable and long-lasting way. Together with Rose Omeyyade and Nuda Veritas, Marie Salamagne continues to build the reputation of Atelier Des Ors through other highly appreciated scents such as Vanille Lune Feline, Bois Sikar tobacco, Iris Fauve iris, Rouge Saray sandalwood...

"A good scent should be like Proust's madeleine. Then the scent has the ability to move and evoke emotions so strong that they cannot be contained, no longer want to be controlled. The scent is its own entity."

That is Marie Malasagne, the muse in the world of fragrance, always keeping in mind that her creative achievements have the soul of a small seashell cake.

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