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Located to the west of Ha Giang province, at an altitude of only 2,428m, it is the highest peak in the Northeast. People come to this land famous for the Dong Van Stone Plateau, the golden rice terraces of Hoang Su Phi during the harvest season, the emerald green of the Nho Que River that mesmerizes viewers, or one of the four most beautiful mountain passes in Vietnam – Ma Pi Leng Pass… While those seeking to chase clouds remember Chieu Lau Thi peak, they often overlook another mountain peak that hides a mystical forest that captivates those who venture there.
The enchanting forest captivates those who venture into it.
The forgotten mountain
I had heard about the Tay Con Linh mountain range a long time ago. A long-time friend told me about a time when few people enjoyed hiking in the mountains, a time when she had the chance to visit. She spoke with special emotion about an unforgettable trip. From that story, the name Tay Con Linh has always been etched in my mind, and recently, a photographer friend also mentioned his upcoming trip there. Luckily, my invitation for coffee with him in Hanoi was reciprocated with an invitation to visit Tay Con Linh.
This is a new route from Vi Xuyen district to Cao Bo commune, not from Tung San - Hoang Su Phi, making it quite convenient for those who want to cycle around Ha Giang - Lung Cu - Dong Van - Meo Vac and simultaneously climb a high peak in the Northeast. The journey begins at a peaceful Dao village at the foot of Tay Con Linh mountain, amidst the rapidly developing tourism of Ha Giang. This land, steeped in the pride of its people, has been forgotten amidst the hustle and bustle; the ancient Shan Tuyet tea trees, beloved by tea enthusiasts, and the Tay Con Linh forest are overshadowed by other peaks of the Northwest.
The Tay Con Linh forest is overshadowed by other peaks of Northwest Vietnam.
A hurried trip from Saigon to Ha Giang brought together friends from Hanoi, a younger sibling from Binh Dinh, and a friend from Vi Xuyen – a team representing diverse cultures from all three regions of Vietnam – to explore the peaks of the Northeast via a newly opened road. This route was only opened by locals two years prior, but it wasn't until early 2023 that mountain and forest enthusiasts began to be introduced to it.
Searching for the enchanting mossy forest.
From Ha Giang to Cao Bo, a distance of nearly 50 km, it takes over 2 hours to reach this remote Dao ethnic minority village. You can take a motorbike taxi or drive your own motorbike along the winding, undulating dirt road for another hour before reaching the starting point for the hike to the summit. The total distance to conquer the summit is about 14 km, taking approximately 7-8 hours on foot, traversing vast cardamom plantations on a rather muddy road after a few days' rain to find the enchanting mossy forest. Here, unlike the low, moss-covered trees of Ta Xua, the moss grows tall and majestic, in various shapes like long, hairy fingers reaching towards the sky. When entering the forest, look up at the canopy to feel like you've wandered into a verdant kingdom, not from the leaves, but from the thick layer of moss clinging to the trunks and even the smallest branches.
A thick layer of moss clings from the trunk down to the small leaves and branches.
The uphill and downhill journey was only 14 km, and the group, being in good health and having traveled to many places, chose to do it as a day trip. What seemed like a simple route turned out to be quite challenging; we left Cao Bo at 7 am and didn't return until 6 pm. Many groups chose to stay in huts near the summit, while others, unaware of the route, arrived back at the village quite late, around 10-11 pm. Fortunately, a younger sibling in our group had inquired about the situation beforehand, allowing us to arrange our itinerary smoothly.
The locals here are passionate about tourism, from Mr. Tung, the homestay owner, to Ms. Thu, the tour guide. In the evening, even the district and commune chairmen came to toast them. They hope that their enthusiasm and attentive care will ensure that anyone who comes here remembers the hospitable people and recommends the beautiful scenery, and that they will return to introduce this forgotten land to others.
Next time, I'll return, traveling from Hoang Su Phi and down to Vi Xuyen to explore the Tay Con Linh region. I'll enjoy dishes from the La Chi and Dao ethnic groups, sip on a cup of natural Shan Tuyet tea nurtured by the mountain, and experience unforgettable, warm hospitality.
Next time, we'll come back, starting from Hoang Su Phi and going down to Vi Xuyen to explore the Tay Con Linh region.
