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An ancient temple by the Day River
Ba Danh Pagoda, also known as Bao Son Tu, is nestled on the banks of the Day River, on high ground in Danh Xa village, Ngoc Son commune, Kim Bang district, formerly Ha Nam province, now Ninh Binh province. Its location, with its back against the mountain and its front facing the river, has long separated the pagoda from the hustle and bustle of the village, offering a quiet and peaceful atmosphere, quite different from the typical pagodas situated amidst crowded villages in the Northern Delta.
The structures within the grounds of Ba Danh Pagoda, viewed from above.
According to local documents and oral traditions, Ba Danh Pagoda is believed to have originated during the Ly Dynasty (11th-12th centuries, approximately 1009-1225). In folk memory, the pagoda appeared early as a place of worship dedicated to the Goddess – a female deity associated with riverine beliefs, entrusted by riverside inhabitants with the hope of protecting their crops and lives. Later, with the development of Buddhism, the pagoda gradually became Buddhistized but without erasing the indigenous beliefs, creating the familiar fusion of ancient Vietnamese pagodas.
The folk saying "as deserted as Ba Danh Pagoda" is associated with this temple. For centuries, access to the temple was mainly by ferry, along alluvial plains and riverside paths; there were no markets or crowded festivals. Therefore, traffic was sparse, and the temple grounds always remained quiet and peaceful, quite different from temples located in the villages of the Northern Delta. This image gradually entered everyday speech and was generalized into the idiom "as deserted as Ba Danh Pagoda," used to describe desolate places with few visitors.
Having undergone numerous historical upheavals, Ba Danh Pagoda has been restored and renovated throughout various dynasties, particularly during the Le and Nguyen periods. Although not a major Buddhist center, the pagoda still plays an important role as a religious center for the local community and preserves the long-standing cultural heritage of this region.
The temple, formerly dedicated to the Virgin Mary, later integrated with Buddhism but retained its original character.
The restrained architecture and distinctive features of Northern Vietnamese village temples.
Viewed from above, Ba Danh Pagoda appears with a closed, symmetrical layout along a vertical axis, with rows of traditional red clay tile-roofed buildings surrounding a large brick courtyard in the center. The architecture of Ba Danh Pagoda is typical of village pagodas in the Northern Delta region, in which the roof system plays a dominant role in shaping the space.
The temple has a symmetrical layout along its vertical axis, comprising approximately 40 structures of varying sizes.
The temple roof has a steep slope and a wide expanse, covered with traditional terracotta tiles. The tiles are stacked thickly and evenly, creating a heavy, somber surface. Over time, the tiles darken in color, with light patches of moss, making the entire structure seem to settle peacefully amidst the landscape along the Day River.
The temple roof is covered with terracotta seashell-shaped tiles, a deep red color that has become covered in moss over time.
The eaves are moderately curved, softly rounded, and enclosed, neither soaring nor ostentatious. On the roof ridge and gables are decorative reliefs made of lime plaster with familiar motifs such as dragons, mythical creatures, swirling patterns, and jewels – common elements in village temple architecture during the Le and Nguyen dynasties. These details are restrained in density and size, concentrated at the roof peak, not extending down to the veranda or facade, creating just enough emphasis without disrupting the overall sense of tranquility.
The bas-reliefs and sculptures are mainly concentrated on the roof, leaving a quiet, empty space below.
Inside Ba Danh Pagoda, the space opens up into a wide, flat brick courtyard. Surrounding the courtyard is a long, low veranda, with wooden pillars retaining their natural, unpainted color. The doors are paneled and closed, the facades simple, with minimal decoration, creating deep, dark spaces within the inner sanctuary – a familiar architectural technique of ancient pagodas, ensuring the worship area remains tranquil and secluded.
The tiled courtyard, dotted with cats basking in the sun, creates a tranquil atmosphere.
The simplicity of its decoration, combined with its heavy and enclosed structure, has created the ancient and enduring beauty of Ba Danh Pagoda – an architectural space that prioritizes sustainability, privacy, and adaptation to the riverside landscape, while reflecting the aesthetic and religious beliefs of the inhabitants of the Day River region over many centuries.
Surrounding the courtyard is a long, low veranda, with wooden pillars retaining their natural, aged color.
A system of integrated worship and historical-belief depth.
The religious space at Ba Danh Pagoda clearly reflects the characteristic syncretism of Vietnamese spiritual life. The system of shrines within the pagoda is quite rich, including statues of Buddha, Bodhisattvas, and Guardian Deities according to Buddhist tradition, while also incorporating elements of Taoism such as the Supreme Venerable Lao Jun, Nam Tao, and Bac Dau. In addition, the Ancestral Hall houses the statues of the founder of the Zen Buddhist sect, and the Mother Goddess Shrine houses statues of the Three Palaces and Four Realms, reflecting the intermingling of Buddhism, Taoism, and the worship of the Mother Goddess within a single sacred space.
On the left is the Board of Holy Sages
In the center is the Council
On the right is the Altar of the Lord.
In particular, Ba Danh Pagoda still retains strong traces of folk beliefs through the worship of Phap Vu, one of the four deities belonging to the Four Deities (Phap Van, Phap Vu, Phap Dien, Phap Phong) system popular in the Northern Delta region. According to local documents, initially, the people only established a simple temple to Phap Vu in the forest at the edge of the village along the Day River. During the Vinh Tri period, under King Le Hy Tong (1676-1680), the pagoda was built more elaborately, marking the transition from a folk worship space to a complete pagoda complex.
In recent years, along with the development of transportation infrastructure and the completion of connecting roads along the Day River, Ba Danh Pagoda has gradually shed its isolated status, as described in folk sayings. The area, once considered "desolate," is now more accessible, attracting many locals and tourists to worship and visit, especially during holidays and festivals. Besides religious activities, many people come to the pagoda to experience the peaceful atmosphere, take photos, and enjoy the surrounding natural scenery.
As the Lunar New Year of the Horse (Bính Ngọ) approached, many locals and tourists visited the temple to sightsee and worship.
The memorial houses a statue of President Ho Chi Minh, photographs of General Vo Nguyen Giap and General Secretary Nguyen Phu Trong.
Right next to the pagoda is Ngoc Mountain, forming a self-contained landscape of mountains, pagoda, and river. At the foot of the mountain, a small flower garden is in full bloom, softening the ancient architectural space and expanding the visitor experience.
The flower garden is in full bloom at the foot of Ngoc Mountain next to Ba Danh Pagoda.
Throughout centuries of existence and transformation, Ba Danh Pagoda has maintained its role as a spiritual anchor for the local people, associated with religious activities, prayers for peace and good harvests, rather than large-scale ceremonies. Due to the enduring religious life and the preserved historical and architectural value, Ba Danh Pagoda was classified as a National Historical and Cultural Monument in 1994.
