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Nestled in the Sa Phin valley, where layers of gray rocky mountains form a natural screen, the Vuong family mansion stands as a living testament to a time when power once dominated the far northern region.
After a century of upheavals, the Vuong family mansion still stands firm on the rocky plateau.
The shadow of the "King of the Hmong" and his empire in the border region.
To understand the Vuong family mansion, one must begin with the man who built such a powerful force: King Vuong Chinh Duc of the Hmong people. About 100 years ago, he was the leader revered as "king" by the Hmong, playing a crucial role on the rocky plateau.
During those turbulent years, the Vuong family was not only a symbol of power but also a bridge between many ethnic groups, maintaining peace throughout the region. Their influence was so great that his name is still remembered today as part of Ha Giang's memory.
History continues to recount a crucial turning point: the Vuong family embraced the revolution. Even the son of the Hmong King, Vuong Chi Sinh, once formed a brotherhood with President Ho Chi Minh. Therefore, the story of the mansion is not just a story of wealth or power, but also a story of transformation, integrating into the common history of the nation.
A project worth 150,000 silver coins and the architectural imprint of three cultures.
The mansion was built over four years, from 1923 to 1927, at a cost of 150,000 Indochinese silver coins, equivalent to approximately 150 billion Vietnamese dong today. From the entrance gate, one can sense the solemnity of what was once a center of power. Hanging above the gate is a horizontal plaque bestowed by Emperor Khai Dinh upon Vuong Chinh Duc in the 8th year of Khai Dinh's reign (1923). This plaque is an official acknowledgment from the Nguyen dynasty court, and also an affirmation of the Vuong family's status in the northern border region.
Hanging above the gate is a horizontal plaque bestowed by Emperor Khai Dinh upon the Hmong king, Vuong Chinh Duc.
As you venture deeper into the nearly 3,000 m² grounds, the feeling of awe becomes even more pronounced. The architecture of the mansion unfolds before your eyes like a layer of sediment accumulated over generations.
The mansion was built according to the Hmong people's traditional house layout, always choosing a location with its back against the mountain and its front facing the valley to receive auspicious energy. Surrounding the building is a 3-meter-high wall of green flagstone, forming a sturdy fortress in the valley. Rows of ancient cypress trees, hundreds of years old, stand tall like sentinels, witnessing the many changes of the family. The roof and walls are made of pine wood, covered with yin-yang tiles, combined with French-style wrought iron frames, creating views that are both ancient and subtly blend Eastern and Western influences.
Ancient samu trees surround the palace.
The interior walls of the houses are constructed from slabs of stone quarried directly from the Dong Van karst plateau, fitted together so tightly that almost no binder is needed. The stone retains heat in winter, cools in summer, and withstands wind and frost. The red pine pillars, selected from deep within the forest, are large and straight, and after being treated with smoke and linseed oil, they can resist termites for decades.
Stepping deeper into the main hall, the floor is paved with polished blue stone, clearly showing the wear and tear of centuries of footsteps. The rafters and trusses are all made of Pơ Mu wood – a precious wood characteristic of the mountains and forests of Ha Giang – emitting a light fragrance, providing warmth while creating a solemn atmosphere for the ceremonial space. Interspersed among these local materials are cast iron window frames and railings in the French style of the early 20th century, creating soft curves that contrast but do not clash with the rustic nature of the stone and wood.
Stepping into the main hall, once the residence of the Hmong King, one can still find photographs of the Vuong family, familiar objects of daily life, and especially the royal robe of the Hmong King Vuong Chinh Duc - a symbol of the authority of a unique dynasty in the history of the Hmong people.
The royal robe of the Hmong king Vuong Chinh Duc is displayed in a glass case at the palace.
Walking through the buildings – stepping between two centuries
Today, as visitors step into the rows of houses, it feels like stepping back into another era. The darkened ironwood pillars, the old doors with hinges still bearing the marks of forging nails, and the tiny windows overlooking the sun-drenched courtyard create a vivid sense of life for the Wang family in the early 20th century.
Long, stone-paved corridors, worn smooth by the footsteps of generations of descendants, lead to rooms that once served as the family's meeting places for important discussions or where the Hmong King received guests from afar. One can easily imagine a time when this place was bustling with people coming and going, the sounds of conversation and footsteps echoing across the spacious courtyard.
The mansion's stone-paved courtyard and sun-drenched corridors.
More than just a unique architectural masterpiece, the Vuong family mansion is also a cultural symbol of the Mong people of Ha Giang. It reflects a special historical period when power, trade, culture, and political forces intertwined in this border region.
The palace also preserves the memory of the transition from a unique dynasty to a journey of integration into the revolutionary movement. This spirit makes the building a destination not only for "looking" but also for reflection.
Today, despite the ravages of time on many parts of the structure, the mansion remains a source of pride for Ha Giang. Every year, hundreds of thousands of tourists visit not only to take beautiful photos but also to touch the remaining traces, feel the breath of history, and gain a deeper understanding of the Mong culture on the rocky plateau.
For those who love history, architecture, or simply want to find a peaceful corner to feel time slow down, this mansion will always be a worthwhile stop. Because just by stepping through that stone gate, each person will find their own story amidst the shadows of ancient cypress trees whispering about a bygone era.
