Con Dao Island during the monsoon season.

The monsoon season - the season with few visitors.

The northeast monsoon winds in Con Dao usually start blowing from October of one year to April of the following year. Local boats cannot go out to sea, and high-speed ferry services from Soc Trang and Vung Tau to Con Dao are also limited due to strong winds and waves. The best way to ensure a safe journey is to travel to Con Dao by air. There are about ten flights daily to Con Dao from Tan Son Nhat and Can Tho airports, so if you plan to go, you should book your tickets early.

But it is precisely because of the reduced traffic that the number of tourists has decreased, restoring Con Dao to its original tranquility. I found that to be a good thing. I rode my newly rented motorbike along Ton Duc Thang coastal road, enjoying the cool breeze, golden sunshine, blue sky, and the gentle sound of waves lapping against the shore. The entire two-way road felt like I was the only one driving on it; only occasionally did I see an electric vehicle or a passenger bus coming from the direction of Phu Hai Prison (on the road nearby).

Con Dao Island on a peaceful day

The center of Con Dao is very small, with only a few streets, and you can walk through them in a short time. But I still enjoy wandering around a few times to enjoy this quiet, fresh atmosphere – something I certainly wouldn't find where I live – Saigon. Suddenly, I noticed something interesting about the Terminalia catappa trees all over Con Dao: on the large canopies, only a few withered red leaves remain, waiting to fall to make way for new shoots. The Terminalia catappa tree is closely linked to the lives of the island's inhabitants. Its canopy provides shade on hot days. The fallen Terminalia catappa fruits are collected, dried, and the seeds are roasted and dried to make a snack – a specialty often bought by tourists as souvenirs. The Terminalia catappa tree also contributes to the scenic beauty of Con Dao.

The stretch of road from Ton Duc Thang Street to Nguyen Chi Thanh Street, leading straight to Dam Trau Beach, was newly completed in April 2018, so it's still very new and beautiful. Walking along this road, with the lush green forest of Chua Mountain on one side and the blue sea with its crashing waves on the other, is wonderful; some sections even felt like I was walking through a forest. During the monsoon season, this road is even more beautiful with the addition of large bougainvillea bushes, blooming in various shades of pink, white, and even pastel orange.

Sunset at Bai Nhat Beach

As evening fell, I drove towards Shark Cape to reach Nhat Beach – renowned as the most beautiful sunset spot in Con Dao. I was so engrossed in driving that I suddenly realized Shark Cape was bathed in a stunning sunset. From the darkening mountains on one side, I reached the cape only to see the other side bathed in brilliant light as the sun shone directly onto the cliff face.

The stretch of road from Shark Point to Nhat Beach at sunset is perhaps the most beautiful in Con Dao, with its winding curves around mountains and hills covered in burnt grass. I found a quiet rocky outcrop where there weren't many people, put on some ballad or chill music, and sat there watching the last rays of sunlight, enjoying the breeze, and listening to the sound of the waves. It felt so peaceful, romantic, and serene. Every sunset has its own beauty and emotion – even if the strong winds add a few clouds, it doesn't matter.

Sacred land of Con Dao

Con Dao Island is not only known for its beautiful, pristine beaches but also as a sacred land. If you have the chance to visit Con Dao, take the time to visit the tomb of the heroine Vo Thi Sau (also known as Co Sau's tomb) at Hang Duong Cemetery; visit the temple of Hoang Phi Yen - a concubine of King Nguyen Anh who was exiled to the island for suspected collusion with the Tay Son army; visit the temple of Cau Cai - the only son of King Nguyen Anh and Phi Yen; visit the Ngu Hanh Temple and the only pagoda in Con Dao - Van Son Tu. Con Dao is sacred land, so please do not joke or speak disrespectfully to those "in the afterlife".

So, this is my third time visiting Con Dao, and each time has been a different experience. Sometimes it's raining heavily, other times it's sunny and beautiful, and sometimes the wind is so strong it feels like it could lift me off the ground. Yet, I still don't get tired of Con Dao; I love everything about it, and I love... the monsoon season too.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

ButTRIP:You can book flights from Ho Chi Minh City to Con Dao or take a speedboat from Tran De port (Soc Trang) which takes 1 hour and 30 minutes, or from Vung Tau which takes 2 hours and 30 minutes to reach Con Dao. It is expected that in April, there will be additional speedboat services from Bach Dang wharf (Ho Chi Minh City) to Con Dao.

ButMEANS OF TRANSPORTATIONCon Dao has taxis and electric vehicles, but renting a motorbike will make exploring Con Dao easier, costing between 100,000 and 120,000 VND per day.

ButTIME:

• From February to June is the best time to visit Con Dao for snorkeling and swimming.
• July to October is the season when sea turtles usually come ashore to lay eggs, but it is also the time when rain and storms are more likely.
• From October to April of the following year is the monsoon season in Con Dao, so traveling by speedboat during this time can easily lead to seasickness or cancellations.

ButCUISINEDon't forget to enjoy the Vietnamese savory pancake (banh xeo) and duck porridge at Kieu Tam restaurant, bun rieu at Ba Hai Khiem, banh beo at Co Ba, and chicken porridge at night on Pham Van Dong street…

ButSKIN:When visiting spiritual sites, remember to dress modestly. And when going to the beach or exploring the islands, wear whatever you feel most comfortable in so you can enjoy the clear sea air.

ButRecommended Tours: Visiting the islands surrounding Con Dao, fishing, snorkeling to see coral reefs, scuba diving, etc.

ButTRAVEL COSTSThe estimated cost for a weekend trip is approximately 3.5 million VND (by sea) to 5.5 million VND (by air).

Vinh Le