Hon Hai Island: A dream come true.

05/07/2018

I had heard about a giant rock formation in the middle of the ocean, and I longed to visit it. Hon Hai, also known as Hon Hai (internationally called Poulo Sapate), located about 60 km east of Phu Quy island district in Binh Thuan province, and 180 km from Phan Thiet, challenged me, even in my dreams.

A giant rock formation in the middle of the ocean…

Then, seeing the picture of a whale wagging its tail in the deep blue ocean, my longing intensified: I would set foot on this island, fulfill my goal of visiting each landmark marking the territorial waters, so that later I would have stories to tell my children and grandchildren about national sovereignty over the sea and islands. Don't laugh and think my thoughts are grand; I'm past the age of impulsive trips where I just pack my bags and go… My trips now delve into emotions and experiences, into "living as if never before lived, singing as if never before sung… no matter how many storms there are, nothing can stop us from smiling" (The Song of Youth). Therefore, every trip has its meaning and its story, and strangely enough, in two years, I have set foot on Hon Hai Island twice.

Đảo Hòn Hải hiện ra, như giấc mơ đã trở thành hiện thực. Ảnh: Tonkin

Hon Hai Island appeared, like a dream come true. Photo: Tonkin

Last October, upon hearing that my team was planning a trip to Hon Hai, I made a split-second decision. I rushed to the airport to pick up my teammates flying in from Hanoi, and together we embarked on a tightly-knit journey, so much so that any delay from the plane, car, speedboat, or fishing boat would have ruined all my plans. Fortunately, the weather was calm and everything went smoothly, like a dream. Then, seeing a towering rock formation standing proudly amidst the vast sea and sky in the sunrise brought about an overwhelming and moving experience that left me speechless.

Hòn Hải có nhiều hình dạng nếu nhìn từ nhiều góc độ khác nhau. Ảnh: Tonkin

Hon Hai Island has many different shapes depending on the viewing angle. Photo: Tonkin

Beyond all imagination, it's not just a block of rock. Hon Hai Island takes on different forms depending on the viewing angle, sometimes like a fortress wall, sometimes a whale, sometimes a sea lion, and sometimes a bird perched peacefully.

Tunnel through the mountain in the East Sea

During rough seas, ships couldn't dock at the pier, so we approached and landed on the island from the back, crawling into a tunnel resembling a wasp's nest, about 30 meters above sea level. The story told wasn't as captivating as what we saw firsthand. One of the remarkable structures is a 170-meter-long tunnel system with four entrances leading to the island's surface. The tunnel is reinforced with reinforced concrete to withstand rockfalls and aftershocks. The tunnel entrance is located at the back of the building and extends to the island's surface via 380 steps. From the tunnel entrance to the island's surface, a system of 240 sturdy concrete steps leads all the way to the base of the Hon Hai lighthouse.

Đường lên đảo là đường hầm đặc biệt. Ảnh: Tonkin

The route to the island is a special tunnel. Photo: Tonkin

The independent Hon Hai lighthouse helps ships operating off the coast of Binh Thuan province navigate and determine their position. Its daytime geographical visibility is 26.5 nautical miles, and its nighttime illumination range is 24.5 nautical miles. Even those who have worked with lighthouses for many years and are knowledgeable about Vietnam's seas, when mentioning the Hon Hai lighthouse, shake their heads at its solitude amidst the vast ocean. The staff on the island are the silent heroes guarding the lighthouse. During the day, they climb the lighthouse to inspect it, and at night they sleep at the base of the lamp to ensure it always shines. Regardless of rain, wind, or storms, their work must be completed successfully. For four months, it's just the few of them, completely isolated in the middle of the ocean.

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Những công trình trên đảo Hòn Hải. Ảnh: Tonkin

Structures on Hon Hai Island. Photo: Tonkin

The stories told about the island were deeply moving. Therefore, the brief time spent together, singing songs filled with longing, was a truly precious moment in life. As we parted ways, some on shore, others on the boat, waving goodbye with a touch of sadness.

I have seen thousands of seabirds.

For generations, fishermen on Cu Lao Thu (another name for Phu Quy Island) have known that Hon Hai is completely barren, lacking fresh water and trees, yet it is home to tens of thousands of swallows, seagulls, and pelicans.

Đảo là nơi bình yên để loài chim tìm về trú ngụ. Ảnh Tonkin

The island is a peaceful place where birds come to take refuge. (Photo: Tonkin)

During the bird nesting season, the island's surface is densely covered with bird eggs and blanketed in white droppings. Anyone who has set foot on the island will surely be captivated by its magical scenery. Over millennia, wind and waves have eroded the rocks, creating undulating ridges around the island like a soft, hastily applied brushstroke. Keeping my promise to visit Hon Hai Island, I returned during the bird migration season, marking my second visit.

Mỗi mùa chim làm tổ, đảo lại rợp trời chim bay lượn. Ảnh: Tonkin

During nesting season, the island is filled with birds soaring through the air. Photo: Tonkin

After hours adrift at sea, witnessing a magnificent sunrise and a simple breakfast with the fishermen... a colossal rock formation appeared before my eyes. The feeling of awe and wonder remained as strong as the first time. In the middle of a boundless ocean, a solitary, majestic rock stood, its surface covered with soaring seabirds. This time, I was determined to explore every nook and cranny of the island, admiring and taking in the magnificent and breathtaking beauty of nature. The sea was so intensely blue, the rocks and the deep abyss so mysterious...

Hãy đi khẽ, nói khẽ... đừng làm phiền đến lũ chim sinh sản và yêu đương. Ảnh: Tonkin

Walk softly, speak softly... don't disturb the birds breeding and mating. Photo: Tonkin

Oh my goodness, there are thousands of birds, even though they say there will be even more in July. Humans should remember that the birds are the masters of the island. Walk softly, speak softly... don't disturb the birds breeding and mating. The seagull glanced at the people, then calmly waddled away from its nest to find food... Don't worry, we'll keep watch for you, we won't let anyone destroy your nest.

Sitting atop the lighthouse, gazing out over the island... watching the birds' wings fluttering brightly, admiring Hon Hai Island rising majestically from the sea like a sacred landmark of Vietnam's sovereignty in the East Sea, I suddenly felt an inexplicable love for my homeland!

A trip filled with nostalgia.

There are few places quite like this one; even after leaving, the memories and emotions linger, something to share whenever we have the chance to gather together. I remember the simple breakfast on the boat with fresh squid caught from the sea, sun-dried grouper fried and eaten with white rice porridge… I remember the sunset, casting my fishing lines, pulling up schools of fish the size of my fist, glistening in the afternoon sun. The fish were grilled whole until golden brown, and we'd enjoy a glass of wine while listening to the fishermen tell stories in their unique island dialect. It was delightful to be able to guess an entire sentence correctly, using only local words.

Cuộc sống trên đảo còn nhiều khó khăn, nhưng ai cũng cố gắng. Ảnh: Tonkin

Life on the island is still difficult, but everyone tries their best. Photo: Tonkin

I remember the stories about the hardships of life here during stormy seasons and rough seas. I remember the steps taken across the lush green meadows to reach the tip of the island. I remember the delight of discovering those speckled eggs nestled among the rocks, and the wonderful moments of happiness shared as we embraced the breathtaking beauty of our homeland. I remember singing together joyfully. I remember immersing ourselves in the crystal-clear blue sea...

Tác giả Lý Mai Ly (Du Giang) lại tiếp tục các hành trình thú vị. Ảnh: Chi Nguyễn

Author Ly Mai Ly (Du Giang) continues her fascinating journeys. Photo: Chi Nguyen

Together with like-minded companions, we are preparing to plan new adventures. Every step we take will be etched in our minds as unforgettable memories.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

Currently, there are no official tourist routes open to take visitors to Hon Hai Island. You must obtain permission from the South Central Maritime Safety Company before visiting any facilities on the island.

When permitted, you should note the following:

- Reaching Hai Island is not easy without special assistance from the local residents of Phu Quy Island. You must be healthy and enthusiastic because the trip involves constant travel using various modes of transportation and a packed schedule.

- The biggest challenge is the very long journey on a small boat at night in the vast ocean. When the sea is calm, you can lie comfortably on the bow, gazing up at a starry sky, pointing out the Big Dipper and the shining King Saturn to each other… but as soon as the sea breeze picks up to force 4 or 5, almost everyone prepares for seasickness and vomiting.

- With a 12-hour round trip to the island… you can experience everything. Magnificent sunrises, scorching sun, dreamy sunsets, and chilly nights that penetrate your skin. You'll arrive at the island and disembark in a traditional basket boat, drifting and swirling with the crashing waves.

- If you have enough passion and health, and don't demand extravagance… then in return you will have unforgettable and truly amazing experiences.

Du Giang
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