VI
Located south of the Alps and in the far north of beautiful Italy, the majestic Dolomites mountain range lies entirely within the geographical region of Trentio Alto Adige, also known in German as Trento SudTirol, meaning the southern region of the Austrian province of Tirol. The Dolomites are tranquil, as if bearing the wounds of a broken love affair between a calm Austrian man and a passionate, proud Italian woman.
As a traveler captivated by the charming, free-spirited, vibrant, and sun-drenched beauty of Italy, the moment I stepped out of Bolzano train station, the capital of the Alto Adige region, I was surprised by a completely different Italy: spotless streets, tree-lined parks, the chilly weather, and residents who speak German as their official language. Remarkably, Trento Alto Adige is the wealthiest administrative region in Italy, with a centralized system of governance completely separate from the central government.
The Dolomites (in Italian, Dolomiti) stretch from the Adige River to the Piave Valley. The sheer size of the Dolomites can be overwhelming for visitors, leaving them unsure where to begin or how to proceed, given that the region boasts over 40 peaks ranging in height from 2,235 m to 3,343 m and more than 18 mountain ranges.trekkingHowever, the Alto Adige authorities have built an excellent transportation system, allowing visitors to reach most desired destinations by bus or cable car. Popular attractions in Alto Adige are connected by the Dolomites Grand Pass, with the most notable including Lake Carezza, the town of Cortina, the summit of Tre Cime, and the charming small capital city of Bolzano.
The Dolomites Grand Pass
One of the must-see places in the Dolomites is the magnificent 110-kilometer "La Grande Strada delle Dolomiti" (The Great Strada of the Dolomites), stretching from Bolzano through vast tunnels. The route also crosses charming valleys nestled within the expansive Dolomite landscape, passing through Val D'Ega, Vigo di Fassa, Canazei, and connecting to Cortina.
Established in 1909, the Dolomites Grand Pass, with its many sections built entirely by hand due to a lack of machinery, is one of Italy's most important routes, connecting this Southern European country with Northern Europe. The Grand Pass was continuously constructed over eight consecutive years starting in 1901 by a total of 2,500 workers with the motto "no hotel without a road." This has made the Dolomites an ideal tourist destination for nature lovers thanks to its convenient transportation. The feeling throughout the journey along the Grand Pass is one of awe at the majestic nature, excitement at seeing charming small towns nestled behind massive limestone mountains, and tranquility at seeing dairy cows leisurely grazing on the desolate meadows.
The turquoise waters of Lake Carezza
Located at an altitude of 1,534 meters, Lake Carezza is special for its deep blue water and its inexhaustible supply of groundwater from the mountaintop. The name Carezza originates from Latin, meaning "rainbow lake." According to legend, captivated by the beauty of the goddess Udine, Laterma painted a rainbow above the lake to summon her. However, overwhelmed by her beauty and power, Laterma was so frightened that the rainbow shattered, scattering across Lake Carezza.
On the outer shore, the lake reflects the golden-leaved trees, and as you move inward, the water darkens, converging in the center at a depth of 17 meters into a deep, dark blue-black. In spring, when the snow melts, the lake expands in all directions, its total area potentially doubling compared to the drier winter days. However, whether it's a freezing winter or a scorching summer, Carezza remains one of the most popular tourist destinations, partly due to its proximity to the capital city of Bolzano. Few people know that Carezza also produces exquisite timber, a top choice for leading violin and guitar manufacturers worldwide.
Cortina - A fairytale town
The next destination is known as a fairytale land: Cortina, located at the westernmost end of the Dolomites mountain pass. For centuries, many world-renowned poets and writers, such as Ernest Hemingway and Saul Bellow, have traveled thousands of miles to admire the simple yet captivating beauty of Cortina.
Over time, visits from great literary figures have brought Cortina immense artistic value, encompassing poetry, music, and film. Cortina has appeared in countless iconic works such as James Bond, The Pink Panther, and Cliffhanger. You might be surprised to learn that almost every family in Cortina knows how to play a musical instrument, and every July, when the Dolomites shed their snow, Cortina offers a surprise: the Dino Ciani Piano Competition. In 1956, Cortina hosted the Winter Olympics, and since then, many other winter sports competitions have been held in this beautiful city.
Legendary Cime Peak
Always featured in all tourist photos of the Dolomites is the majestic Tre Cime peak, over 3,000 meters high. Tre Cime forms the border between Austria and Italy, as well as the boundary between the Italian-speaking and German-speaking regions of Alto Adige.
To reach Tre Cime, we drove from the town of Cortina, crossed Lake Misurina, and stopped at Rifugio Auronzo station. From there, we began a 1.7 km trek to the nearest point to Tre Cime. The majestic beauty of Tre Cime, with its endless mountain ranges and forests dotted with changing colors, is truly difficult to fully describe in any picture or word. This beauty can only be fully appreciated with one's own eyes, through the feeling of each traveler realizing how small they are amidst this magnificent natural landscape.
The capital city of Bolzano is quiet.
There's nothing better than ending your Dolomites trip with a day of culinary and wine tasting in the tranquil capital of Bolzano. Due to its unique climate with cold, rainy, and foggy weather, the vineyards in Bolzano are carefully shaped to ensure the foliage always covers the heavily laden grape clusters, resulting in the best quality harvests. If you're already familiar with the harmonious wines of Chianti or the full-bodied wines of Southern Italy, Schiava, Lagrein, and Gewürztraminer will offer a completely different experience.
Due to the less sunny climate, Bolzano wines don't offer the same fruity flavors as wines from other regions. Instead, they possess a more refined texture and character: Schiava is light and youthful, Lagrein is rich and full-bodied, and Gewürztraminer is elegant and sophisticated. Bolzano's cuisine retains strong Austrian and German influences, with numerous German bakeries, famous apple pie, and sausage carts lining the streets. It's difficult to find makeshift Chinese restaurants or kebab stalls in this city steeped in authentic tradition.
Additional information
+ Getting there: The most convenient way to get to the Dolomites is by train. The capital, Bolzano, is only about a two-hour train ride from major Austrian cities like Munich or Verona. Traveling by train also allows visitors to admire the natural scenery through the majestic mountain ranges.
+ Weather: Due to its high mountainous terrain, the Dolomites have quite cold weather. The spring months (February - March) are the last time the mountain ranges are still covered in snow, with daytime temperatures around 7-10°C and nighttime temperatures around -2-2°C. Therefore, visitors should bring plenty of life jackets, thermal clothing, and waterproof hiking boots if they want to participate in trekking and skiing.
+ Communication: Despite being a popular tourist destination, Alto Adige has the lowest number of immigrants in Italy, making it a safe and peaceful place to visit. Tourists can communicate with locals in English, Italian, or German.
+ Sightseeing: In addition to sightseeing at the famous locations mentioned above, you can purchase a ski pass for the entire Dolomites region. This pass is valid for all 12 ski resorts across the Dolomites and costs €50 per day. Detailed ski schedules are available on the website: http://www.dolomitisuperski.com/en
+ Other note: If you don't want to rent a car to travel between the Dolomites but still want to fully enjoy the beauty of the Dolomites, you can book Dolomite tours with local guides at: http://www.dolomitemountains.com/en/home.htm
