Every time I think back, Morocco appears in my mind like a colorful picture. A Morocco with the gray-blue of the Atlantic Ocean, the orange-yellow of the Sahara desert, the gray-green of the dusty date palms, the red of the mud houses, the white of the eternal snow on the Atlas Mountains and the blue of the Berber's scarves.
The ups and downs of an ancient capital
If someone asked me which place I like best in Morocco, I would choose Fez without hesitation. Up to now, I have always had more affection for majestic natural landscapes, for high mountains, wide seas, long rivers, rarely favoring big cities. But I cannot help but fall in love with Fez. This city is so special, it has both the traditional, solemn look of an ancient capital, the bustling, bustling atmosphere of the souks (markets), and the peaceful, cozy atmosphere of French-style villas.
If Marrakesh is bustling and bustling, attractive like a young man full of vitality, Fez is hidden in time, charming and mysterious like a quiet man. Once the oldest capital and also the longest-serving capital of Morocco through the dynasties, Fez has witnessed the ups and downs of the country's history over thousands of years. Until 1912, the Franco-Moroccan treaty signed in Fez put Morocco on the list of colonies and the capital was moved to Rabat. However, to this day, Fez is still the artistic, cultural and spiritual center of the entire kingdom.
After four days of shaking cars and struggling on camelback in the Sahara, I returned to the light of civilization. Through the car window, I felt like I was traveling back in time through three completely different eras of the city. First was the new Dar Dbibegh neighborhood, built by the French during the colonial period, a harmonious blend of traditional Moroccan and modern European styles. Then came Fès el-Jedid, the “new” administrative center, begun in the 13th century under the Marinid dynasty. Finally, I got out and walked into a completely different world: Fès el-Bali, which encompasses the medina (inner city), the oldest neighborhood, founded in the 8th century by the Idrissid dynasty.
A new day begins on the high tower
My day in Fez usually begins before dawn when I am awakened by the adhan – the chanting call to prayer. From the tallest minaret, the adhan resonates, rising and falling, and echoes through every nook and cranny of the city.
Muslims pray five times a day: at dawn, noon, mid-afternoon, sunset, and one hour after sunset. They can gather in mosques, Islamic schools, and mausoleums, or pray in private, as long as they face Mecca.
Early in the morning, I walked to Bab Boujloud, the most distinctive gate of Fez, connecting Fès el-Jedid with the old town of Fès el-Bali. It is called the “Blue Gate” because of the color of the intricately patterned decorative tiles covering both sides of the wall: one side is cobalt blue – the color of Fez, the other side is green – the color of Islam.
People often refer to the medina of Fez as a mysterious labyrinth. This is the largest pedestrian area in the world with a population three times that of the main island of Venice in Italy. In the medina, motor vehicles are completely banned due to the many stairs and narrow streets, only a few dozen centimeters to a few meters. The walls of Fez enclose a priceless cultural and architectural treasure. In just a few square kilometers, there are countless gates, palaces, mosques, Islamic schools, mausoleums, libraries, fountains that are the best preserved in the Arab world, completely captivating wanderers like me.
Leaving Bab Boujloud, two main streets led me deep into the medina, where the exquisite Spanish (Hispano-Moresque) Islamic architecture was concentrated. Perhaps nowhere else could one visit as many beautiful madrasas (Islamic schools) as in Fez. Each madrasa was a complex of prayer rooms and dormitories, surrounded on all four sides by a large, quiet courtyard. The walls were decorated with mosaic motifs or elaborate and delicate calligraphy. Standing in that quiet space, I could forget all the noise and bustle of the markets right on the other side of the school gate.
The heart of Fez lies in the heart of the medina, where the mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II, the second king of the Idrissid dynasty and founder of the city, is located. Next to it is the world’s oldest mosque and university, El Quaraouiyine, founded in 859. However, like all other mausoleums and mosques in Morocco (except the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca), the heart of Fez is closed to outsiders. One can only stand outside and admire the intricate carvings on the giant gates and the ornate entrance.
Lost in the alleys
I left the big sights to wander between the winding alleys and small squares, here and there the sound of looms, the sound of wood carving around Nejjarine Square, the sound of blacksmiths' hammers in Seffarine Square.
Fez is famous for its local delicacies and exquisite handicrafts. Fez scarves are woven in a variety of fibers, from brightly dyed sheep’s wool to cool silk and cactus silk. Throughout the city, one cannot help but be drawn to shops selling traditional cobalt-blue ceramics. Blue ceramics are a symbol of Fez. Plates, large bowls, and vases, painted with distinctive patterns, are displayed on shelves or hung on walls, begging to be picked up.
I continued to wander through the colorful markets. Attarine Souk sells henna and spices, Tillis Souk sells carpets, Chemaïne Square sells dates and nuts, Chrabliyines Souk sells babouche – the traditional Moroccan shoe. I could spend the whole day wandering around the old town, just to admire the shimmering Arabic lamps, fondle the elegant leather bags, cut and sewn by hand, or inhale the smell of freshly ground spices wafting through the small alleys. Spices are an indispensable part of Moroccan cuisine. Star anise, cinnamon, paprika, coriander seeds, ras-el-hanoui… pungent in the nose.
Fez has many old tanneries, but the largest is Chouwara, not far from Seffarine Square. Visitors can climb onto the balconies of the shops in the houses that surround the tanneries to watch leather being processed using methods that have been handed down since the Middle Ages. The owners will hand out mint to mask the pungent smell from the colorful vats.
Late afternoon is the best time for me to leave the crowded medina and see Fez from above. Fez is located on the Saïss plateau, sandwiched between the Rif Mountains and the Atlas Mountains, surrounded by hills with beautiful views. In the afternoon, people begin to collect the leather pieces that have been dried on the sunny and windy hillsides, loading them onto donkeys to transport them back to the workshop. From above, the hustle and bustle of the old city disappears. The gentle orange sunlight falls on the minaret (towers).
MORE INFORMATION
+ Itinerary:There are no direct flights from Vietnam to Morocco, you need to transit through a third country, such as France, Qatar, to the Moroccan city of Casablanca. From Casablanca, start your journey across Morocco to Fez by train or bus. Morocco has a very good public transport system. Visitors can easily buy tickets online or directly at the train station or bus station without any problems.
+ Visa:Vietnamese tourists apply for visa at the Moroccan Embassy in Hanoi, cost about 30 USD.
+ Time:October to May is the best time to visit Morocco. Desert nights are cold so if you plan to go on a desert tour, you should bring warm clothes.
+ Cuisine:
- Moroccan food is delicious and varied. Traditional restaurants often have tajin, couscous, pastilla or lamb and beef stews. In the souks there are many delicious skewers. Morocco is a Muslim country so people do not eat pork.
- Breakfast in the hostels has many kinds of bread, corn flour pancakes, with jams, honey, butter, mint tea, and delicious freshly squeezed orange juice.
- Moroccan pastries are also delicious (but very sweet). They are tiny, thumb-sized, fragrant, and rich, and are best enjoyed with a cup of hot mint tea.
+ Tip:
- In Fez, you can hire a tour guide to take you on a half-day or full-day tour of the city. They will introduce you to the culture, architecture, customs, and especially help you escape the siege of thieves and touts. The people of Fez do not like to be photographed, but if you go with a tour guide, you will be comfortable without anyone showing any discomfort.
- In the morning, many tour guides gather at Bab Boujloud, each with a license. The tour costs from 10-12 USD/half day for 2 guests.
+ Reference cost:
- In Morocco, you can easily book a place to stay overnight through popular booking sites. Prices are quite reasonable, for example, a double room in a 2-star hotel is about 50-60 USD/night, or about 30 USD/night for a double room in a budget hostel.
- Eating out in Morocco is usually around 10 – 20 USD/meal in good restaurants with nice spaces, and much cheaper in normal restaurants in the souks. Therefore, the cost in Morocco is around 80 – 90 USD/person/day (not including airfare) if you have above average standards, or around 60 – 70 USD/day for backpackers.
