Every time I recall it, Morocco appears to me like a vibrant, colorful painting. A Morocco with the gray-blue of the Atlantic Ocean, the orange-yellow of the Sahara Desert, the gray-green of the dust-covered date palm groves, the red of the mud houses, the white of the eternal snow on the Atlas Mountains, and the blue like the scarves of the Berber people.
The ups and downs of an ancient capital
If someone asked me what my favorite place in Morocco was, I would choose Fez without hesitation. I've always had a soft spot for majestic natural landscapes, for high mountains, vast seas, and long rivers, rarely favoring large cities. But I couldn't help but fall in love with Fez. This city is so special; it combines the traditional, solemn atmosphere of an ancient capital with the bustling energy of its souks (markets), and the peaceful, cozy ambiance of its French-style mansions.
While Marrakesh is bustling and vibrant, captivating like a young man full of life, Fez hides the passage of time, charming and mysterious like a quiet man. Once the oldest and longest-serving capital of Morocco, Fez has witnessed the country's history through thousands of years. It wasn't until 1912, when the Franco-Moroccan treaty signed in Fez placed Morocco on the list of colonies and the capital was permanently moved to Rabat, that Fez remains the artistic, cultural, and spiritual center of the kingdom.
After four days of bumpy car rides and arduous camelback journeys across the Sahara Desert, I returned to the light of civilization. Through the car window, I felt as if I were traveling back in time through three completely different eras of the city. First, there was the new Dar Dbibegh district, built by the French during the colonial period, harmoniously blending traditional Moroccan and modern European styles. Then came Fès el-Jedid, the "new" administrative center, begun in the 13th century under the Marinid dynasty. Finally, I got out and walked into a completely different world: Fès el-Bali, encompassing the medina (city streets), the oldest district, formed under the Idrissid dynasty in the 8th century.
A new day begins on the tall tower.
My day in Fez usually begins before dawn, awakened by the chanting of adhan – the murmuring call to prayer. From the tallest tower, the clear, rising and falling tones of the adhan spread to every corner of the city.
Muslims pray five times a day: at dawn, at noon, in the afternoon, at sunset, and one hour after sunset. They may gather at mosques, Islamic schools, and shrines, or pray in private, as long as they face towards Mecca.
Early in the morning, I walked to Bab Boujloud, Fez's most distinctive city gate, connecting Fès el-Jedid with the old town of Fès el-Bali. It's known as the "Blue Gate" because of the color of the intricately patterned decorative bricks covering both sides of the wall: one side is cobalt blue – the color of Fez, the other is green – the color of Islam.
The Fez medina is often described as a mysterious labyrinth. It's the world's largest pedestrian zone, with a population three times that of the main island of Venice in Italy. Motor vehicles are completely banned within the medina due to numerous staircases and narrow streets, ranging from just a few dozen centimeters to a few meters in width. The city walls of Fez enclose a priceless treasure trove of culture and architecture. Within just a few square kilometers, there are countless gates, palaces, mosques, Islamic schools, tombs, libraries, and fountains—some of the best-preserved in the Arab world—completely captivating wanderers and explorers like myself.
Leaving Bab Boujloud, two main streets led me deep into the medina, a concentration of exquisite Spanish Islamic architecture (hispano-moresque). Perhaps nowhere else can one visit as many beautiful madrasa (Islamic schools) as in Fez. Each madrasa is a complex of prayer rooms and dormitories, enclosed on all four sides by a large, quiet courtyard. The walls are decorated with mosaic patterns or intricate and delicate calligraphy. Standing in this tranquil space, I could forget all the noise and hustle of the markets just beyond the school gates.
The heart of Fez lies in the medina, where the tomb of Moulay Idriss II – the second king of the Idrissid dynasty and founder of the city – is located. Next to it is El Quaraouiyine, the world's oldest mosque and Islamic university, founded in 859. However, like all other mosques and tombs in Morocco (except for the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca), the heart of Fez is closed to non-Muslims. One can only stand outside and admire the exquisite carvings on the massive gates and the beautifully decorated entrance.
Lost in the narrow alleys
I left the major attractions to wander through the winding alleys and small squares, where I could hear the sounds of looms and wood carvings around Nejjarine Square, and the blacksmith's hammers in Seffarine Square.
Fez is renowned for its local specialties and exquisite handicrafts. Fez scarves are woven from a variety of fibers, from brightly dyed sheep's wool to cool silk and prickly pear fiber. Throughout the city, one is drawn to shops selling traditional cobalt blue patterned pottery. Blue pottery is a symbol of Fez. Plates, large bowls, and vases, adorned with distinctive patterns, are displayed on shelves or hung on walls, inviting a hand to take them home.
I continued to wander aimlessly through the colorful markets. The Attarine Souk (market) sold henna and spices, the Tillis Souk sold carpets, Chemaïne Square sold dates and nuts, and the Chrabliyines Souk sold babouche – traditional Moroccan shoes. I could spend the whole afternoon strolling through the old town, just admiring the twinkling Arabian lamps, admiring the stylish leather bags, all hand-cut and sewn, or inhaling the aroma of freshly ground spices wafting through the narrow alleys. Spices are an indispensable part of Moroccan cuisine. Star anise, cinnamon, paprika, coriander seeds, ras-el-hanoui… their pungent spiciness stings the nose.
Fez has many long-established tanneries, but the largest is the Chouwara tannery, located not far from Seffarine Square. Visitors can climb onto the balconies of the shops in the buildings surrounding the tannery to watch the leather being processed using methods passed down from the Middle Ages. Each person will be given a sprig of mint by the homeowner to mask the strong, pungent smell emanating from the colorful vats.
Late afternoon is the perfect time for me to escape the bustling medina and admire Fez from above. Located on the Saïss plateau, nestled between the Rif and Atlas Mountains, Fez is surrounded by hills offering breathtaking views. As evening falls, people begin gathering the dried hides that have curled up on the sun-drenched, windswept hillsides, loading them onto donkeys to be transported back to the workshops. From above, the hustle and bustle of the old town fades away. The gentle, golden-orange sunlight bathes the minarets (towers).
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
+ Journey:There are no direct flights from Vietnam to Morocco; you need to transit through a third country, such as France or Qatar, to Casablanca. From Casablanca, you begin your journey across Morocco to Fez by train or bus. Morocco has an excellent public transportation system. Tourists can easily buy tickets online or directly at train stations and bus terminals without any difficulty.
+ VisaVietnamese tourists can apply for a visa at the Moroccan Embassy in Hanoi, at a cost of approximately 30 USD.
+ Time:The best time to visit Morocco is from October to May. The desert nights are cold, so if you plan on a desert tour, you should bring extra warm clothing.
+ Cuisine:
Moroccan food is delicious and diverse. Traditional restaurants often offer tajin, couscous, pastilla, or lamb and beef stews. Many kinds of grilled skewers are also available in the souks. As Morocco is a Muslim country, pork is not commonly eaten.
- Breakfast in the hostels included a variety of breads, cornmeal pancakes, along with jams, honey, butter, mint tea, and freshly squeezed orange juice – absolutely delicious.
- Moroccan pastries are also delicious (but very sweet). They're tiny, about the size of a thumb, fragrant, and rich; enjoying them with a hot cup of mint tea is perfect.
+ Tip for you:
- In Fez, you can hire a tour guide to take you on a half-day or full-day city tour. They will provide detailed information about the culture, architecture, customs, and most importantly, help you avoid the prying eyes of thieves and touts. The people of Fez don't like being photographed, but with a guide, you'll be able to relax without anyone showing any displeasure.
- In the morning, many tour guides gather at Bab Boujloud, each holding a professional license. Tours cost between $10-12 USD for half a day for two people.
+ Estimated cost:
- In Morocco, you can easily book accommodation through popular booking websites. Prices are quite reasonable; for example, a double room in a 2-star hotel costs around 50-60 USD per night, or about 30 USD per night for a double room in a budget guesthouse.
- Eating out in Morocco typically costs around $10-$20 per meal at good restaurants with nice ambiance, and is much cheaper than at regular eateries in souks. Therefore, the cost of living in Morocco is approximately $80-$90 per person per day (excluding airfare) if you have above-average standards, or around $60-$70 per day for budget travelers.
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