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Seemingly overshadowed by the immense allure of its neighbor Bali, the island of Java, with its stunning mountain ranges, isn't a major tourist destination in Indonesia. This third-largest island in Indonesia has the world's second-largest population of 124 million. However, this doesn't mean you'll be dealing with crowds. The best way to avoid the crowds in Jakarta – Indonesia's capital and Java's largest city – is to fly to Yogyakarta. This is an ideal starting point for your subsequent journeys.
In Yogyakarta, we took the opportunity to visit the Borobubur temple complex, built 12 centuries ago, the largest Buddhist temple in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Of course, we didn't forget to enjoy the satay chicken sold by the street vendors. Java is considered the best place in Indonesia to enjoy this dish. Indonesian-style fried rice, also known as nasi goreng, is another dish you shouldn't miss.
"The slow ox drinks muddy water."
Our next destination was Mount Bromo, part of the Tenggen Range, east of Yogyakarta. You can get there by car or bus, but the train is considered the most convenient option. Although the train journey takes a while, the seats are more comfortable. We were quite lucky to find a quiet cabin with plenty of empty seats. The train stopped in the city of Probolinggo, where you can catch a coach or truck to the volcano, which takes about an hour and a half. The road is winding but not too unpleasant.
Here, sightseeing tours usually start at 3 a.m. Jeepneys will pick you up at your hotel. Note that the number of guesthouses and hotels here is quite limited, especially during peak season. It's best to book in advance.
You can also hike to the viewpoint, though it will take longer. We had to set our alarms for 1 AM. Remember to bring a flashlight for walking before dawn. Note that there are two different viewpoints. The one the guide usually takes you to is the newer one, from where you can see the entire Bromo peak and take souvenir photos. We chose the second viewpoint, which is more peaceful and also very beautiful. To reach this viewpoint, you have to hike uphill.
Starting early allows you to watch the sun rise from behind the mountain range, with the clouds gradually disappearing behind the volcano. A breathtaking sight! Early morning is also the ideal time to admire the beauty of the volcano spewing thick plumes of smoke. This is perfect for slow-motion video clips. Just set your camera to video mode, relax, and let Mother Nature provide you with amazing footage.
As you get closer to the volcano, the jeep will drop you off at the nearest possible point. From there, you can still hop on the back of a motorbike or a horse to continue your journey. While motorbike taxis can only take you to the foot of the mountain, horses can help you overcome the most difficult sections. But even so, it's not the end of the story; a long mountain trek awaits you ahead.
Once you've climbed to the summit, you can look down into the volcano's interior. In the mornings, the volcano continuously emits thick plumes of sulfurous smoke. On windy days, you should observe from a sufficient distance to ensure you are not affected by this gas.
After admiring the scenery, you'll still have plenty of time to return to the hotel and enjoy breakfast!
As the heat increases
The easternmost point of Java is a completely different experience. Ijen is a volcanic complex encompassing a kilometers-long, turquoise acid lake where sulfur miners work. Tours to the mountain start quite early, at 1 am. Reaching the summit requires about two hours of groping in the dark, and another hour to enter the crater, where sulfur is mined. Be extremely careful on the descent because miners often have to walk past you carrying massive blocks of sulfur, weighing up to 100 kg, up to the crater and down to the village. This same journey took us two hours, even with only a backpack weighing nearly 5 kg.
You might think these miners worked hard to make a better life. But they only earned about $12 a day. I couldn't help them carry the sulfur blocks down the mountain, but I could help them a little by buying them small sulfur pieces shaped like turtles. A nice souvenir to remember the climb and appreciate the miners' hard work.
One of the main reasons we tried to climb to the summit was the chance to see the beautiful blue flames when sulfur gas burns. You'll need to wear a gas mask provided by the guide. Sulfur gas is not good for your health, especially your respiratory system. The blue flames are an incredibly amazing phenomenon that you don't get to witness firsthand everywhere. As you return to the edge of the volcano, the sun begins to rise, the sky clears, allowing you to admire the clear blue lake.
Although it's quite strenuous to climb to the summit, you can easily reach the base of the mountain from Banyuwangi by taking a train from Probolinggo. Most tour operators offer bus rides along the winding road that starts at the western village of Ijen.
A trip to Banyuwangi, followed by a short ferry ride and a four-hour bus ride to the airport near Bali, is a perfect itinerary. You can relax and admire Bali's beautiful beaches after a strenuous hike in Java.
Additional information:
+ Journey:From Vietnam, you can fly to Yogyakarta with Air Asia flights. These flights usually have a layover in Kuala Lumpur.
Weather:The dry season in Java typically lasts from May to September, and the rainy season from October to April of the following year. Although the weather in Indonesia is warm year-round, temperatures can drop significantly at night when hiking in the mountains. You should bring warm clothing.
+ Outfit:Indonesia has the world's largest Muslim population. Shorts and t-shirts are acceptable, but you should dress respectfully.
Note:Bromo and Ijen are active volcanoes, so you should take precautions before visiting to ensure safe access to both of them.
Text: Kevin Gen | Photos: Various authors
