Seemingly overshadowed by the allure of its neighbor Bali, the mountainous island of Java is not a major tourist destination in Indonesia. Indonesia’s third-largest island has the world’s second-most populous population of 124 million. However, that doesn’t mean you’ll have to fight your way through the crowds. The best way to avoid the crowds in Jakarta, Indonesia’s capital and Java’s largest city, is to fly into Yogyakarta. This is an ideal base for further journeys.
Arriving in Yogyakarta, we took the opportunity to visit the Borobubur temple complex, built 12 centuries ago, the largest Buddhist temple in the world and recognized by UNESCO as a World Cultural Heritage. Of course, we did not forget to enjoy the chicken satay from the street vendors here. Java is considered the best place in Indonesia to enjoy this chicken dish. Indonesian fried rice, also known as nasi goreng, is also one of the dishes you cannot miss.
"Slow buffalo drinks muddy water"
Our next destination was Mount Bromo, part of the Tenggen range, east of Yogyakarta. You can get there by car or bus, but the train is the most convenient. Although the train takes a long time, the seats are more comfortable. We were lucky to find a quiet cabin with plenty of empty seats. The train stops in the city of Probolinggo, where you can catch a bus or truck to the volcano in about an hour and a half. The road is winding but not too unpleasant.
Here, tours to the scenic spot usually start at 3am. Jeeps will pick you up at your hotel. Note that the number of guesthouses and hotels here is quite limited, especially during peak season. It is best to book in advance.
You can also walk to the viewpoint, which of course takes longer. We had to set our alarm for 1am. Remember to bring a flashlight to go before dawn. Note that there are two different viewpoints. The one that the tour guide usually takes visitors to is the newer one, from here visitors can see the whole view of Mount Bromo and take souvenir photos. We chose the second viewpoint, which is more peaceful and also very beautiful. To get to this viewpoint, you have to walk a distance up the hill.
An early start allows you to watch the sun rise from behind the mountains with the clouds disappearing behind the volcano. What a sight! Early morning is also the best time to see the volcano as it releases thick smoke. This is a great time for slow motion videos. Just set your camera to record and take in the scenery while Mother Nature gives you the perfect footage.
As you get closer to the volcano, the jeep will drop you off at the nearest available point. From here, you can still hop on the back of a motorbike or a horse to continue your journey. While the motorbike taxi can only take you to the foot of the mountain, the horses can help you overcome the most difficult parts. But even that is not worth it, there is a long mountain road ahead.
Once you reach the summit, you can look down into the volcano. In the mornings, the volcano continuously releases thick layers of sulfurous smoke. On windy days, you should look far enough away to avoid being affected by the gas.
After taking in the sights, you still have enough time to return to the hotel and enjoy breakfast!
As the heat increases
The easternmost point of Java is a completely different experience. Ijen is a volcanic complex with a kilometer-long, acid-green lake where sulfur miners work. Tours up the mountain start early, at 1am. It takes about 2 hours of walking in the dark to reach the summit and another hour or so to get into the crater where the sulfur is mined. Be careful on the way down, as miners often have to pass you while carrying 100kg chunks of sulfur up the crater and down to the village. A similar journey took us 2 hours with our 5kg backpacks.
You would think these miners were working hard to make a better life. But they only earn about $12 a day. I can’t help them carry the sulfur down the mountain, but I can help them a little by buying these little sulfur cubes shaped like turtles. A nice souvenir to remember the climb and appreciate the miners’ hard work.
One of the main reasons we tried to climb to the top was to see the beautiful blue flames of sulfur gas. You will need to wear a gas mask provided by your guide. Sulfur gas is not good for your health, especially your respiratory system. The blue flames are an amazing phenomenon that you will not get the chance to see anywhere else. As you head back to the edge of the volcano, the sun is starting to rise and the sky is clearer, allowing you to see the clear blue lake.
While it is quite a trek to the summit itself, the base of the mountain is easily reached from Banyuwangi by taking a train from Probolinggo. Most tour operators opt to take a bus up the winding road that starts at the western village of Ijen.
A short ferry ride to Banyuwangi and a 4 hour bus ride to the nearby airport in Bali is the perfect route. You can relax on the beautiful beaches of Bali after a strenuous hike in Java.
More information:
+ Itinerary:From Vietnam, you can fly to Yogyakarta with Air Asia flights. These flights often transit in Kuala Lumpur.
+ Weather:The dry season in Java usually lasts from May to September, the rainy season from October to April. Although the weather in Indonesia is warm all year round, temperatures can drop at night when you go up in the mountains. You should bring warm clothes.
+ Costume:Indonesia is the world's most populous Muslim country. Shorts and t-shirts are acceptable, but you should dress modestly.
+ Note:Mount Bromo and Mount Ijen are active volcanoes, so you should take care before coming here to make sure you can safely access these two mountains.
Article: Kevin Gen | Photos: Various authors
