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In the Emilia-Romagna region of northern Italy lies a small city called Modena, with a population of less than 200,000. While not as well-known as its neighbor Bologna, Modena is famous for producing top racing cars such as Ferrari, De Tomaso, Lamborghini, Pagani, and Maserati. Modena is also the birthplace of the opera singer Luciano Pavarotti (1935-2007). But since 1995, Modena has attracted not only car and music enthusiasts but also food lovers, thanks to the opening of Osteria Francescana – a 3-star restaurant opened by local chef Massimo Bottura.
The pride of Modena
The beginnings of Osteria Francescana were not easy. In the 1990s, Modena was a small city, largely untouched by contemporary international cuisine. Generally, Italians were quite conservative in their tastes and so passionate about their traditional flavors that they couldn't accept new innovations. Italian portions were typically large, whereas at Osteria Francescana, each dish was presented delicately in moderate portions. Therefore, locals found it difficult to accept Massimo Bottura's idea of modernizing traditional dishes.
However, thanks to the persistent efforts of the Italian-American couple Massimo Bottura and Lara Gilmore, Osteria Francescana has been embraced by local diners and gained worldwide recognition. In 2013, Osteria Francescana garnered attention by ranking 3rd in the UK's "World's 50 Best Restaurants." In 2016 and 2018, it rose to become the world's number one restaurant, the first Italian restaurant to achieve this position. Now, mentioning Modena is synonymous with mentioning Osteria Francescana. My family was very fortunate to have secured a table there in December 2017.
In modern times, there are traditions.
Osteria Francescana's website states: “Every object reveals a layer of meaning. Contemporary art is an inspiration, a guide, and a muse. From Maurizio Cattelan to Damien Hirst to Duane Hanson, art is an invitation to discover.” Massimo Bottura draws inspiration from art, music, slow food, and high-speed cars. Most importantly, he draws inspiration from childhood memories of cooking with his grandmother in the kitchen, the true starting point of his culinary career. Later, even after studying law, Bottura chose the culinary path.
Each dish, seemingly perfected to perfection, conveyed Bottura's intense passion for Italian cuisine. Instead of ordering a tasting menu, we chose our own, focusing on his most famous dishes or those using specialty ingredients from Modena. The appetizer was one of his signature dishes: Five Ages of Parmigiano Reggiano. The main ingredient is the king of cheeses: Parmigiano Reggiano, also known as Parmesan. This Modena specialty has been prepared in five different ways: 24 months for a mousse, 30 months for a foam, 36 months for a sauce, 40 months for a crisp galette, and 50 months for the Parmesan "air." I've eaten regular Parmesan cheese many times and thought I was quite familiar with its taste, but I never imagined Parmesan could be used to create such a creative dish.
Next up is The Crunchy Part Of The Lasagna. Traditional lasagna is a layered baked dish consisting of pasta, tomato sauce, minced beef, cream sauce, and cheese. Bottura recounts how children in Emilia-Romagna often loved the slightly charred corners, leaving the rest for the adults. Drawing on that childhood memory, Bottura added a smoky flavor to his lasagna and removed the pasta, keeping only the crispy cheese. The traditional lasagna flavor is unmistakable, but the modern version focuses on the very part that Italian children loved most. It's not just a superb lasagna, but also a poignant memory of the country's children.
After a few complimentary side dishes for diners to sample, the main course is Suckling Pig, Tender and Crunchy. As the name suggests, the meat is tender while the skin is crispy, somewhat similar to Peking roast suckling pig but on a different level, with a new cooking method. A special ingredient is Villa Manodori balsamic vinegar, made by Bottura based on a traditional Modena recipe. The light aroma and sweet and sour taste of the vinegar complement the meat perfectly. The vinegar's distinctive flavor comes from being made from Trebbiano grapes and aged in barrels made from chestnut, oak, and juniper wood. Other accompaniments include pickled vegetables, delicately sliced and trimmed. Eating meat with vinegar is perhaps unique to Italy.
Finally, there's the dessert, Oops, I Dropped The Lemon Tart! It's so named because the tart is arranged as if it had just been dropped. Instead of a perfectly round tart, Bottura takes a different approach, suggesting that form isn't important and making mistakes is normal. The first impression of this lemon tart is that it looks like a vibrant, abstract painting. The refreshing taste of the Sorrento lemons remains intact, creating a delightful sensation and a perfect ending to a meal with multiple layers of flavor.
Overall, the dishes we chose were excellent, and Bottura must be very talented to bring a fresh perspective to these time-honored recipes.
A precious gift from Massimo Bottura
That day, Massimo Bottura went to each table to greet and take photos with the diners. He also shared with us his desire to visit Vietnam in the near future and was very happy to know that we had traveled all the way from Vietnam to enjoy his culinary skills. Despite his famously luxurious restaurant, he is a very easygoing and unpretentious person. Not only is he friendly and open, but he is also a philanthropist, actively participating in charitable activities with his wife. In 2016, he founded the non-profit organization Food for Soul to help combat food waste, a very practical action that benefits the community.
Before leaving, each female diner received a complimentary 50ml bottle of balsamic vinegar, a non-commercial item. This is the same Bottura vinegar used in the Suckling Pig, Tender and Crunchy dishes, and it's produced in limited quantities. Pure balsamic vinegar is expensive because of the carefully selected grapes and the meticulous fermentation process; the longer it's aged, the richer and more flavorful it becomes. Traditionally, the minimum aging time is 12 years. Balsamic vinegar has a long history and was considered a prized gift among the nobility during the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. It could be said to be the most valuable vinegar in the world.
Our experience at Massimo Bottura restaurant was unforgettable. Beyond the exquisite vinegars, we took home lasting impressions of a masterful Italian chef, a world-class restaurant, and dishes that were both authentically Italian and modern.
Additional information
- How to make a reservation:To dine at Osteria Francescana, reservations are required through the website:https://osteriafrancescana.dinesuperb.comEach reservation is for a maximum of 10 guests and can only be made 3 months in advance. On the 1st of each month, at exactly 10:00 AM, the website will open reservations for the next 3 months. If there are no more reservations, you can try filling out the "Waiting list" and hoping someone cancels their reservation. The restaurant is closed on Sundays and Mondays.
- Price:A meal, excluding drinks, costs approximately 250-270 EUR per person (about 6,600,000-7,100,000 VND per person).
- How to get to Osteria Francescana:Our family traveled from Rome to Modena by train (we had to change trains once in Bologna), then stayed overnight in Modena to explore Massimo Bottura's favorite spots in the city. From Modena train station, it's about a 15-20 minute walk to Osteria Francescana. You can take a bus or taxi from the train station, but walking is the best way to explore Modena.
- Restaurant address:Via Stella, 22, 41121 Modena MO, Italy.
ButMassimo Bottura's Instagram: @massimobottura
