I still remember the moment I stood on the side of the motorboat at 2 p.m., gazing out at the sea, like a ribbon of emerald silk flowing in the wind, stretching endlessly to the horizon. The water was so clear that I could see the different colored currents: white, dark blue (from seaweed), light blue like the sky… intertwined and interwoven. In the distance, islands and islets jutted out like giant, uncut gemstones (because of the lush vegetation covering them). I stood there speechless, forgetting to film or take pictures. My companion stood beside me, his hands gripping the side of the boat as it cut through the white currents of water towards the coral reef, his face dazed as if he'd had morning coffee, muttering – I don't know if he was talking to me or just whispering unconsciously – "How can it be so beautiful?"
The Nam Du coastline is beautiful and peaceful.
My business trip to Saigon ended just in time for the weekend. Having heard a lot about the Nam Du archipelago, and having gathered enough information and prepared, I bought a sleeper bus ticket, departing from the Ho Chi Minh City Youth Cultural Center at 10 pm on a sweltering early summer day. Near dawn the next day, the bus arrived in Rach Gia, Kien Giang, where we bought tickets for the SuperDong hydrofoil to Nam Du.
After nearly three hours of the boat bobbing up and down, we arrived at Cu Tron Island – the largest island in the Nam Du archipelago. Stepping onto the pier, we saw countless boats laden with fresh fish and shrimp, including rare seafood hard to find in Hanoi or Saigon. The boats and barges overflowing with shellfish, sea urchins, and squid displayed their abundance, all mingled with the intoxicating scent of the sea.
Boats travel from Kien Giang to Nam Du.
After checking in, we rented a motorbike and toured the island. The magnificent beauty of Nam Du gradually unfolded before me, starting from Bai Ngu, the place where Gia Long Nguyen Anh, during his difficult times, had wandered to – hence the name "Bai Ngu." Each hillside resembled the inkwells of the Cuu Long River that I used to wear around my waist to dip my pen into, sloping gently and converging on the beach with its turquoise waters. In the distance, boats leisurely gliding in the bay added to the splendid watercolor painting under the warm morning sun at 10 a.m., with the gentle breezes playfully rustling through the 70- and 80-year-old coconut trees.
The road circling Cu Tron Island was probably newly completed, with some sections still a fresh red color of basalt soil mixed with gravel. Above was the old forest, below was the vast sea. The two brothers sat on their rickety motorbike, admiring the sea and exclaiming with delight as they rode along, wanting to stop everywhere to take pictures…
While admiring the sea and exclaiming with delight, one might want to stop everywhere to take pictures…
After a hearty lunch of delicious seafood and a relaxing afternoon nap amidst the beautiful sea and sky, we boarded a motorboat to go snorkeling at Mau Island. While the coral reefs in Nam Du aren't as abundant or beautiful as in Nha Trang or Phu Quoc, most of them are calcified. It's rare to find a patch of vibrant green swaying like swimming fish, but the layers of rocks piled on the seabed, teeming with colorful marine life and schools of fish swimming playfully, left us breathless from the diving, filled with joy, and offering an amazing experience…
After swimming and diving to my heart's content, I climbed onto the boat, my body and hair soaking wet, swaying in the strong sea breeze. Sitting by the side of the boat, I received a steaming bowl of oyster porridge from the boatman. I scooped, slurped, and savored the sweet, warm, and salty taste of the sea, feeling it permeate every cell of my being. Only then did I realize how many moments in life are truly worth living…
The cuisine in Nam Du is also incredibly rich and diverse.
We returned to the main island to await a Saturday evening that was sure to rival the vibrant and magnificent Caribbean beach festivals. Young and old, men and women, especially the youth, sat crowded together in the simple, rustic rows of eateries, glasses overflowing with wine, laughter and chatter incessantly, and delicious, fragrant seafood that, even now, as I write this, makes my mouth water... I'm craving it. Nam Du also boasts a variety of seafood specialties that captivate visitors, such as grilled scallops with scallion oil, steamed squid with ginger, sour fish soup, etc., but the most distinctive dish here is grilled bluefin tuna wrapped in banana leaves – truly outstanding!
After a relaxing night, we set our alarms to wake up early to watch the sunrise on the island. We sat on the damp grass, watching the first rays of sunlight filter through the charming bungalows on Mến Beach, then went to visit the Nam Du Lighthouse. Because there was a border guard station nearby, and because our old rented car couldn't handle the steep, long, and sometimes almost vertical slopes, we had to stand far away and admire the famous lighthouse from afar. On the way back to the homestay, we suddenly saw, amidst the rows of boats and under the lush green trees swaying in the breeze, a sign that read: "Will you marry me?" What kind of romantic proposal would a young man make to his girlfriend? As cars passed by, without anyone saying a word, they all swerved to avoid this heart-shaped sign, hoping that Nam Du would forever retain this lovely image, wishing the couple happiness together for life, under the blue sky, white clouds, golden sunshine, and the gentle sound of the sea…
Just one weekend in Nam Du was enough to evoke a surge of positive emotions and memories, even those obscured by time, suddenly resurfacing and overflowing. Truly, "Our country is so beautiful, so incredibly beautiful..."

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