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Vu Dai Village in those days
The village of Vũ Đại, mentioned in the famous work "Chí Phèo" by writer Nam Cao, is the old name of Đại Hoàng village located along the Châu Giang river, now part of Hòa Hậu commune, Lý Nhân district, Hà Nam province. The story goes that Nhân Hậu was a vast area of water. At that time, famine and crop failures were frequent, with only fish readily available. With Tet (Lunar New Year) approaching and no pigs, chickens, or anything else in the house, the villagers devised a way to prepare a delicious and flavorful fish dish to offer to their ancestors, both as a sign of respect and to ward off bad luck and misfortune from the past year. The Vũ Đại village-style braised fish dish originated from that time.
Legend has it that fish stewed in earthenware pots from Vu Dai village was once one of the specialties offered to the king and an indispensable dish during major village festivals. During the Tran dynasty, this was a dish particularly favored by the king and was often brought to the palace.
Despite the ups and downs of history, poverty no longer "hinders" the people of Vu Dai village, but the tradition of braising fish in clay pots for the Lunar New Year is still preserved and maintained in every household here. Gradually, Vu Dai's clay pot braised fish has officially risen above the village boundaries, becoming a specialty that helps the people of Vu Dai village escape poverty and improve their lives.
The art of preserving fish is quite elaborate…
In the past, every Tet holiday, the people of Vu Dai village would be busy lighting fires, and every household would be simmering fish stew. The aroma would travel on the wind throughout the village, so that people from kilometers away could smell the slightly pungent scent of firewood and clay pots. The smell of fish stew became a unique Tet scent in Vu Dai village. But now, fish stewing has become a local profession with many brands sold throughout the country as a unique specialty.
In the treasure trove of Vietnamese cuisine, braised fish is perhaps one of the oldest dishes, embodying the soul and essence of the Vietnamese people who depend on rivers and waterways for their livelihood, and a beloved dish in the meals of every Vietnamese family. Although each locality has its own way of braising fish, perhaps nowhere is the method as meticulous and elaborate as in Vu Dai village. From selecting ingredients to preparing them and the cooking process, it requires the meticulousness, skill, patience, and perseverance of the cook.
The meticulous process of braising fish begins with selecting the fish carefully to ensure it doesn't fall apart during the braising process. The villagers of Vũ Đại only use black carp raised at home, fed on snails for at least three years, weighing between 3 and 7 kg, with slender bodies and small bellies. Only then will the fish have firm flesh, less fat, and produce the best braised fish dish.
The people of Vu Dai village have a traditional method of braising fish using earthenware pots and wood-fired stoves. This method preserves the traditions of their ancestors while retaining the earthy flavor of the clay, ensuring the fish remains tender, flavorful, and neither too dry nor too watery. However, not every earthenware pot produces the authentic flavor of Vu Dai village braised fish. A single pot is often custom-made in two places. The body of the pot is made in Nghe An, while the lid is specially ordered from Thanh Hoa. This is because, during the long braising process, only pots made from the clay of Nghe An will not crack, and only lids made from the soft clay of Thanh Hoa can withstand the heat from the rising steam. The pots are then boiled in salted water for many hours to ensure durability and prevent cracking during the braising process.
To create the distinctive flavor of Vu Dai village's braised fish, the fish is marinated and braised with many other ingredients such as ginger, galangal, chili peppers, dried onions, lemon, sugar, pure fish sauce, pork belly, fresh coconut water, etc. There are up to 16 different ingredients in the braised fish, but the most special is the crab broth. Cleaned freshwater crabs are fermented and distilled using a secret method to create a broth for braising the fish. Thanks to this, Vu Dai village's braised fish has a unique and unparalleled taste.
The firewood used for cooking fish stew must also be carefully selected. Only longan wood is chosen because it produces a large, long-lasting flame and embers, providing enough heat for the pot of fish throughout the stewing process.
Placing the clay pot on the stove for braising is the final and most arduous step, requiring meticulous care, as even a slight mistake can ruin everything. The braising artisans of Vu Dai village jokingly say that they treat their clay pot of fish like their own children, being extremely careful with every detail. The pot of braised fish must be left open until the fish boils before being covered again. This method helps remove the strong odor, preserving the best flavors of the spices, and eliminating the fishy smell.
The dish is meticulous and elaborate in every step, but the most valuable aspect is the hard work of the chefs. To achieve the fragrant, rich, and authentic taste of the countryside, the chef must be present for 12-15 hours a day, monitoring the stove, adjusting the heat, and seasoning the dish, often staying up all night until it's finished. If the fish isn't cooked properly, the meat won't be tender and won't absorb the flavors evenly.
Eat it once, remember it for a lifetime.
After a sleepless night preparing the fish stew with an artisan from Vu Dai village, the next morning I eagerly awaited the fruits of my labor. As soon as I gently lifted the lid, a fragrant aroma filled the air. The golden-brown fish looked incredibly appetizing, making my stomach rumble.
The fish was braised until so tender that even the bones seemed to melt in my mouth. The aroma of the fish, the sweetness of the freshwater crab, the spices, and the scent of the longan wood combined to create a unique flavor that can only be savored and appreciated through eating, not fully described in words. Taking a bite of the fragrant, slightly bitter ginger, adding a bit of fatty pork belly, and eating with fragrant white rice, I felt like someone who had been starving for days, devouring three bowls of rice in no time – a truly astonishing feat, as I hadn't had the habit of eating rice for breakfast in a long time.
What's special about Vu Dai braised fish is that it doesn't use any preservatives, yet it can be kept for at least 5 to 10 days (depending on weather conditions) while still retaining its delicious aroma and rich flavor. Word of mouth has spread, and Vu Dai braised fish is reaching every corner of Vietnam and even abroad. Vu Dai village has also become a tourist destination, attracting visitors from afar to visit the birthplace of Chi Pheo and Thi No, the origin of this rustic braised fish dish that, once tasted, will be remembered for a lifetime.
