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A lifetime - a journey back
Before returning to selling food, Mr. Hoa had a long career selling pho. However, due to health reasons, he stopped doing this in 2002. Nearly 20 years later, in his twilight years, he decided to return – this time not with pho, but with sticky rice.
Initially, the stall only sold a few items throughout the day, from morning until 10 PM. But then word spread, and more and more customers came. Now, the stall usually runs out of sticky rice by around 2 PM. For many, Mr. Hoa's sticky rice is not just a dish, but a reminder of the flavors of old Hanoi, of the diligence of a man who wasn't afraid to start over to do what he loves.
His wife helps him carry the food to the customers.
"He does everything himself, from cooking and frying to preparing the ingredients; he doesn't let anyone else do it. The restaurant has customers of all ages, including groups of foreign tourists who come to enjoy the food. Some people have offered up to 2 billion VND to buy the recipe to sell abroad, but he wants to keep his unique style," Mr. Hoa shared with Travellive.
Nestled in simplicity and humility, this sticky rice stall is quietly writing a beautiful story about Hanoi's cuisine, where a seemingly simple dish becomes a subtle symbol of care, sincerity, and human connection.
Soft-boiled eggs with a smooth, creamy texture.
What's admirable is that despite the small shop and the large number of customers, Mr. Hoa maintains a friendly and sincere service style. He personally cooks, chats with each customer, remembers their names and preferences. It is this warmth and friendliness that keeps customers coming back, turning a small sticky rice shop in Bach Dang alley into an indispensable morning stop for many.
A rare delicacy - the signature pink cheek meat.
Sticky rice in Hanoi comes in many variations: sticky rice with shredded pork, sticky rice with pork floss, sticky rice with chicken, sticky rice with pate… Each place has its own style, reflecting the personality of the cook and the taste of the diners. But when mentioning sticky rice with pork cheek, no one can forget Mr. Hoa - the person who skillfully transformed this rare pork cheek into the soul of the dish.
Pork cheek meat, also known as pork jowl, is the meat located on both sides of the pig's cheeks. This type of meat is both tender and crispy, with a natural mix of fat and lean meat, resulting in a rich, savory flavor without being greasy. Mr. Hoa's skill lies in his ability to prepare it in a way that preserves this tenderness while bringing out the distinctive aroma without losing the original sweetness of the meat. Each piece of pork cheek meat is marinated just right, then fried until the outer layer is slightly browned and crispy, while the inside remains juicy and richly flavorful.
The restaurant is located in a small alley but is always crowded.
What's special is that each pig only yields about 200-300 grams of pork cheek, which is very little. Therefore, Mr. Hoa can only prepare about 20 servings of sticky rice with pork cheek each day. Those who want to enjoy it have to "reserve" it early, or accept going to the restaurant and waiting with a slim hope. Some regulars, whenever they crave it, text in advance to reserve a portion, then rush to pick it up at the beginning of lunchtime.
Because of its scarcity, the pork cheek at the restaurant is not just a dish; it has become a symbol of meticulousness, selection, and even a bit of "luck" that diners need to have to fully enjoy the flavor of Mr. Hoa's sticky rice.
Mr. Hoa did everything himself.
A batch of eggs with a truly unique flavor.
Besides the pork cheek, each serving of sticky rice here is a harmonious blend of many accompanying ingredients, from soft-boiled eggs, pate, and sausage to pickled vegetables, fried shallots, and pork sausage. Among these, the soft-boiled eggs are a highlight not to be missed.
Mr. Hoa has his own unique way of cooking eggs. He cracks the eggs into the pan, first the whites, then the yolks. This method not only prevents the yolks from overcooking but also ensures an appealing appearance. The egg whites are fried until golden brown and crispy, while the yolks remain soft, smooth, and melt in your mouth. Just one bite reveals the meticulous attention to detail, from the way the eggs are cracked to the precise cooking time.
Mr. Hoa and his unique batch of eggs.
The pâté here isn't too greasy, it's smooth and creamy, with a rich liver flavor. The sausage is thinly sliced and fried to perfection, creating a subtle sweetness that balances the richness of the pork cheek. All of this blends perfectly with the sticky rice, cooked until soft, fluffy but not mushy, and chewy but not sticky.
Sticky rice is not only delicious but also beautiful. Its beauty lies in the thoughtful presentation, with each ingredient perfectly placed, balancing both color and flavor. A generous serving of sticky rice costs between 25,000 and 50,000 VND, not too expensive, but enough to show the care and effort put into the cooking.
Eating sticky rice at Mr. Hoa's restaurant isn't just about enjoying a delicious dish; it's about savoring a story. A story of a comeback, of perseverance in pursuing a seemingly simple profession, yet one that demands so much love and patience. It's the story of a rare cut of meat, prepared by the hands of an elderly person with exquisite skill. It's the story of old and new customers, each with their own reason for coming, but all leaving satisfied, and sometimes with a touch of regret for not being able to order a second serving.
A bowl of sticky rice with all the toppings at Ong Hoa's Sticky Rice shop.
Sticky rice can easily be found anywhere in this city, but Mr. Hoa's sticky rice still holds a special place for itself. No big sign, no flashy advertising, just the aroma from the small kitchen, the crackling sound of frying eggs, and the gentle smile of the elderly owner. Perhaps that's what makes this sticky rice stall special. No need for fuss, no need for extravagance, just sincerity and genuine deliciousness.
Amidst an increasingly modern Hanoi, dishes like Mr. Hoa's sticky rice are the clearest evidence that traditional values and meticulous attention to detail in cuisine are still cherished. Whether you're a Hanoi native or a visitor, try a plate of sticky rice with pork cheek at Bach Dang Alley to understand why some dishes not only fill your stomach but also evoke cherished memories.
