3 delicious, affordable dishes closely associated with the people of Saigon.

27/03/2023

Rice noodle soup, broken rice, and beef noodle soup – these three dishes, though humble, evoke a sense of longing in anyone who has ever lived here.

You don't need fancy restaurants or luxurious eateries; even small eateries tucked away in alleyways in the heart of the city leave a lasting impression of Saigon's unique culinary scene. In this article, I will introduce Travellive Magazine readers to three delicious noodle soup, broken rice, and beef noodle soup restaurants in Binh Thanh District, Ho Chi Minh City.

Rice noodle soup, a dish that "blurs" the gap between rich and poor.

Rice noodle soup (Hủ tiếu) is known as a popular street food in Saigon. It can be found everywhere, from main streets to small carts tucked away in narrow alleys. These noodle soup stalls often open at night and are frequented by a wide range of people: from hardworking sanitation workers to fashion-conscious individuals adorned with glittering designer clothes.

Here, one can encounter many different types of people, and here, one can clearly see the absence of distinction between rich and poor, of comparison and judgment.

There's a late-night noodle stall about a 10-minute walk from my house. It's more of a humble pushcart tucked away in alley 220 Xô Viết Nghệ Tĩnh, without a sign. All people know is that every evening, around 5 PM, a mother, her son, and her daughter-in-law start cleaning up, setting up tables and chairs, preparing the stove, and then welcoming customers. The stall usually "closes" at 10 PM, as that's when they typically sell out all their food.

Hủ tiếu là món ăn quen thuộc với người dân Sài Gòn (Ảnh minh họa)

Rice noodle soup is a familiar dish to the people of Saigon (Illustrative image)

I usually order a regular bowl of dry rice noodles for 20,000 VND. The dry rice noodles always come with a bowl of broth on the side. The noodles here are blanched just right, so they retain their chewy texture instead of becoming mushy. I often add a few spoonfuls of broth to balance the moisture, along with soy sauce and a squeeze of lemon for extra aroma. The chili paste here is delicious, but you should only add a little to get the authentic taste; otherwise, it will be too spicy.

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A bowl of noodle soup for 20,000 VND will feature toppings such as thinly sliced ​​pork tenderloin, beef meatballs, bean sprouts, and chives. Almost every time I eat here, I ask for an extra bowl of broth. Sipping on a bowl of broth with its natural sweetness and rich flavor, simmered from bones and radishes, and feeling confident that it doesn't have a strong MSG taste, is a must-try. You can also help yourself to free iced tea right next to the noodle cart.

The "star" of Saigon's culinary scene is Com Tam (broken rice).

Besides noodle soup (hu tieu), broken rice (com tam) is also a popular dish, found almost everywhere in Saigon. When talking about Saigon cuisine, people immediately think of broken rice. It's a dish that people can eat at any time of day: from morning to noon, from noon to afternoon, and from afternoon to evening. You can stop at any roadside stall to eat broken rice at any time of day. Interestingly, almost every stall will serve delicious broken rice, or the quality won't vary much.

Just a two-minute walk from the aforementioned noodle shop, 'Com Tam Dem 10' (Rice with grilled pork ribs and meatballs at Night 10) is a popular spot. Young foodies are likely familiar with this eatery, as the quality of this affordable rice dish exceeds expectations. Often, after a late-night meal, when you see this rice shop open, your heart races. Pull over, order a plate of rice with grilled pork ribs and meatballs, and a bowl of sour soup – it's a satisfying meal.

This restaurant is very well-organized, from the service to the tableware. In Saigon, broken rice is usually eaten on a plate with a spoon and fork. The rice and toppings are typically placed directly on the same plate. But here, the cucumber/pickled vegetables and crispy pork cracklings are served in separate small bowls. The hot soup is served in stainless steel bowls, ensuring cleanliness from preparation to serving. Just considering the ambiance and service alone, you'll feel satisfied even before you eat.

Nhắc đến ẩm thực Sài Gòn, người ta sẽ nghỉ ngay đến cơm tấm. (Ảnh sưu tầm)

When talking about Saigon cuisine, people immediately think of broken rice (com tam). (Image source: internet)

The restaurant offers a wide selection of toppings, such as grilled ribs, braised pork with eggs, braised pork with pepper, egg patties, fried eggs, omelets, braised fish, etc. Most braised dishes are kept in the pot, simmered gently to ensure they stay hot. Eggs are also made to order, not pre-fried like in many other places. The broken rice is carefully selected, cooked to the perfect softness, and always served hot. The ribs are marinated and grilled to the right degree, not burnt, and are tender rather than tough. A portion of broken rice with ribs and egg patties costs 50,000 VND.

Beef noodle soup, a rich and authentic Saigon culinary experience.

If you're a true beef noodle soup (bún bò) enthusiast, you really shouldn't miss the beef noodle soup stall located right next to the entrance of Thi Nghè Market on Phan Văn Hân Street. I often call it the "Three Sisters' Beef Noodle Soup" stall because there are three sisters working together: one takes orders from customers, one prepares the soup at the counter, and the other serves the bowls of noodles to customers. It's not always crowded, but the three sisters are always bustling around, constantly running back and forth, occasionally arguing because they mistakenly ordered the wrong dish for a customer – it's quite endearing.

Regarding the food at this restaurant, I can only use one word - quality. I usually order a bowl of beef noodle soup with pork knuckle, which comes with toppings like pork knuckle, beef brisket, crab cake, or regular fish cake. A bowl like that costs 65,000 VND, slightly more expensive than other places, but I must say it's worth it for the quality of a rich and flavorful bowl of beef noodle soup with well-rounded toppings.

Bún bò, đậm đà trọn vị ẩm thực Sài Thành (Ảnh sưu tầm)

Beef noodle soup, a rich and authentic Saigon culinary experience (Image source: collected)

The pork leg meat is cut into large pieces, boiled thoroughly, resulting in a very tender texture that becomes sweeter, more fragrant, and richer with each chew. The beef brisket is also simmered until tender, sliced ​​thickly but not tough. The broth is seasoned with a balanced sweet and salty flavor, harmonious and very palatable. The beef noodle soup is served with finely chopped water spinach stems, bean sprouts, banana blossoms, and herbs. The chili paste here is the highlight, with its distinctive aroma from the combination of minced lemongrass and finely ground chili peppers, creating an unforgettable impression when added to the bowl of beef noodle soup.

The restaurant usually opens around 6 PM and stays open until everything is sold out, but it often opens earlier because many people come to eat or buy takeout. A secret to enjoying delicious beef noodle soup is to arrive early, because at that time the broth will have its most authentic flavor and won't be too salty.

Text and photos: Bi Le
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