Text and photos:Han Han
When you visit Hue, if you have the time, try to slow down. Hue is as gentle as the tranquil Perfume River, which reflects the image of this small city day after day. There is little traffic in Hue. On the small, tree-lined streets outside or inside the citadel, one feels reluctant to go too fast or startle Hue with the sound of car horns.
Hue is melancholic, sweet, gentle, and ancient, like the old, weathered Truong Tien Bridge, the tinkling sound of cyclos clattering across the bridge every day, and the purple hues of high school girls. Many people visit Hue seeking moments of tranquility as the hustle and bustle of life fades away, and to savor the subtle nuances of Hue's distinctive pastries.
As night falls and the mist descends, the people of Hue gather for a late-night meal. The citadel is sparsely populated, but the fragrant, delicious steamed rice cakes (bánh ít and bánh nậm) carried on the shoulders of passersby draw them in. The flickering oil lamps hanging from the carrying poles evoke memories of Hue from long ago.
Just like the soul and scenery of Hue, the simple cakes are made with unique methods, both simple and elaborate. Hue people don't make cakes to satisfy hunger, but to savor the flavors. Each type of cake is a product of glutinous rice flour, shrimp, and meat – all locally sourced ingredients – creating cakes with a distinct Hue flavor.
In Hue, people don't make cakes just to satisfy their hunger, but to savor the flavors. Each type of cake is a product of glutinous rice flour, shrimp, and meat—all locally sourced ingredients—creating cakes with a unique Hue flavor.
There are many types of Hue cakes sold, and each stall has its own delicious specialties. Names like banh ram it, banh beo, banh bot loc, banh khoai, banh nam… just hearing them makes you want to try them and see them for yourself.
The flour used to make bánh ram ít, bánh bèo, or bánh nậm is carefully selected white glutinous rice, soaked in just the right amount of water to prevent it from becoming sour, and then finely ground. Fresh, thin-shelled shrimp with a sweet and fragrant flavor are also used. Each type is prepared in a different, elaborate, and meticulous way.

Banh Beo
The bánh bèo (steamed rice cakes) are shaped like delicate lotus petals using tiny cups as molds. Spoonfuls of thin rice batter are poured into the molds. It looks simple, but steaming the cakes evenly, preventing the batter from spilling out, is an art in itself. They are steamed for about 5 minutes until cooked. The cakes are then placed on a small tray, topped with golden-brown dried shrimp, and a small piece of crispy fried pork skin is added. Bánh bèo is served with a sweet dipping sauce that has a distinctive shrimp flavor. One or two spoonfuls are enough to finish a plate of bánh bèo. Many people eat a dozen plates without getting tired of it. The tall stack of bowls placed nearby is a pleasing sight.
Banh Nam
The pristine white bánh nậm, adorned with pink shrimp filling, is rectangular in shape, thinly sliced, and wrapped in dong leaves, served with shrimp patties. Bánh nậm is soft, easy to eat, and not greasy.

Khoai cake
Banh khoai is more elaborate and somewhat similar to banh xeo. The batter is made from rice flour mixed with turmeric powder, eggs, water, and seasonings such as fish sauce and salt, beaten until smooth and thick. Additional ingredients include bean sprouts, minced pork, and shrimp. Banh khoai is served with fresh vegetables including sliced fig, unripe banana, star fruit, and a dipping sauce.

Banh Bot Loc (Tapioca Dumplings)
There are two types of tapioca dumplings: those wrapped in banana leaves or those served plain. The dumplings have a chewy texture and a sweet, savory flavor from the shrimp and pork fat. They are best eaten with a sweet and sour fish sauce dip. They are both delicious and easy to eat.

Banh Uot (Steamed Rice Noodles)
Banh uot is made quite similarly to banh cuon in Northern Vietnam. However, people in Hue sprinkle some dried shrimp on top, which makes it very fragrant.
Ram It cake
Bánh ít is made from glutinous rice flour with a filling of pork fat and shrimp. The cakes are skillfully wrapped in banana leaves and are very delicious. There are two types of bánh ít: white and black.
Hundreds of delicious types of cakes, each with its own unique preparation method and meaning. Most cake shops in Hue sell a variety. You should only order a few of each type to try and savor the flavors. Because the cakes are made from rice flour, they fill you up quickly. Don't be tempted to order too much of one type, or you'll run out of room for the next. If you want to try them all, order a mixed platter. The vendor will prepare a plate with all kinds for you. Once you've tried them, order more of the ones you like best. If you can't find a good cake shop, you can visit Dong Ba Market to enjoy the cakes.
The pastry stalls in the market are open from morning till evening, always bustling with people coming and going. Wandering through Hue at night, one can easily sense the enthusiasm of the people for food. And especially, to fully appreciate Hue's pastries, one must savor them with their mouths, eyes, and ears to truly enjoy their rich flavors and exquisite craftsmanship.
To fully appreciate Hue's rich flavors and exquisite craftsmanship, one must savor the experience with their mouth, eyes, and ears.
Check out delicious cakes in Hue.:
- Lac Thien Fried Rice Cake - 6 Dinh Tien Hoang
- Truong Dinh Clam Rice - 2 Truong Dinh
- An Dinh Palace Restaurant on Nguyen Hue Street
- Banh beo nam loc Ba Do - 71 Nguyen Binh Khiem
- Banh beo and banh loc nam stalls: Truong Dinh - Ba Huyen Thanh Quan intersection
- Mụ Cai's Banh Loc (tapioca dumplings) are at the end of Chi Lang Street.
- Bèo nậm lọc (a type of fish dish) at Hàng Me restaurant on Võ Thị Sáu street.
- Banh beo Ba Cu, 47 Nguyen Hue.
In Hanoi, you can enjoy it at:
Net Hue Restaurant
- Branch 1 - 204B Hang Bong (Cam Chi Alley), Hoan Kiem District
- Branch 2 - 36C Mai Hac De Street, Hai Ba Trung District
- Branch 3 - 127 Lang Ha Street, Dong Da District
Banh Xinh Restaurant
- Alley 72 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem

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