Binh Lieu - An Unexpected Encounter

That year, we were invited to Quang Ninh province because it was hosting the National Tourism Year, aiming to further develop tourism. According to the plan, we split up to travel throughout the province for two weeks, and my group had the opportunity to visit Binh Lieu. I fell in love with this place from the very first day I set foot there.

Endless border

What attracted me to this place was the opportunity to witness and experience the journey along the border between Vietnam and China. The small road winds its way along the "Border Line," following the contours of the land. Having lived in Ho Chi Minh City, this border was incredibly unfamiliar to me; I had never imagined it to be so simple and unassuming.

Located about 120 km northeast of Ha Long, Binh Lieu is likened to a "miniature Sapa" at an altitude of 1,200 meters above sea level, experiencing four seasons in a single day. Nestled among small houses with carefully reinforced corrugated iron roofs are small gardens; moving red dots, like scattered flowers, are the friendly Dao women. They always smiled when I greeted them. A local teacher told me they were the Thanh Phan Dao, with high foreheads due to shaving both eyebrows and hair, and red headscarves folded up to over 20 cm high. This easily gives the impression that they are much taller, and their dresses are patterned with bright red hues.

We captured moments of them working in the garden, gathering firewood... I entered a villager's house when I saw smoke rising from the roof; they were in the kitchen preparing lunch. The scene was very simple, with a few stoves and shiny black pans, pots, and pans. Their lunch was eaten right in the corner of the house at a small, old, worn-out table. The meal consisted mainly of white rice with a little bit of vegetables, but to me, it was a truly warm and happy meal.

Sunrise at the sacred landmark

In the afternoon, we stayed at a beautiful homestay located on a hillside right by the border. In the evening, we socialized with the Dao people there over bowls of fragrant, mild corn wine. They were very enthusiastic, cheerful, and friendly, making us feel warm in the cool weather, around 20 degrees Celsius.^oIt's midsummer in Quang Ninh.

Binh Lieu has many places worth visiting, but its "specialty" is undoubtedly the "heavenly border markers" located in the border region bordering China. Among them, markers 1300, 1302, 1305, and 1327 are four sacred markers that cannot be missed when visiting this area. These markers are scattered along the border patrol road, more than 700 meters above sea level, winding through hills fragrant with the scent of pine resin.

Early the next morning, we went to watch the sunrise from the small mountain peak where Border Marker 1327 is located. This marker is erected on a not-very-high rocky outcrop. It only takes a little over 1 km from the ring road, climbing back towards the summit to reach the base. From the peaceful summit of 1327, shrouded in early morning mist, you can easily see the town and landscape of China on the other side of the border and of our homeland in the opposite direction.

Upon descending to the village, we witnessed firsthand the ethnic people performing their familiar daily tasks such as drying cinnamon and star anise, gathering vegetables for chickens and pigs, and boiling bamboo shoots. Their simple yet moving activities evoked strong emotions, making them impossible to miss through our cameras. As for me, I also managed to capture some precious moments for my photo collection in this land.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

Trip:Binh Lieu is approximately 270-280 km from Hanoi, depending on the route you choose: either the Hai Phong Expressway - National Highway 10 - Uong Bi - Ha Long - Cam Pha - Tien Yen - National Highway 18C - Binh Lieu or National Highway 5 - National Highway 1 - Bac Ninh - Bac Giang - Lang Son - National Highway 4B - National Highway 18C - Binh Lieu.

Means of transportation:If you don't like driving yourself, there are two bus companies from Hanoi that run direct routes to Binh Lieu: Hung Long and Kien Duc. Once in Binh Lieu, you can rent a motorbike to explore the town and conquer the patrol route, visiting border markers.

Time:In early spring, Binh Lieu boasts vibrant ethnic festivals such as the Luc Na communal house festival, the Soong Co courtship singing festival, and the "wind-avoiding" day. In late March and early April, you can admire the stunning tung tree blossoms. Summer and autumn are ideal times to see the waterfalls and lush green terraced rice fields. Winter is harvest season and features the So flower festival and the new rice harvest celebration.

Accommodation:You can choose to rent a guesthouse (average price 300,000 VND/night) or opt for homestay services in Song Mooc and Khe Tien villages (average price under 100,000 VND/person/night).

Cuisine:There are many delicious dishes to try when visiting Binh Lieu, such as seven-colored sticky rice, cooc mo cake, gat gu cake, mugwort cake, vermicelli noodles, grilled stream fish, stir-fried bamboo shoots, etc.

Attractions:Binh Lieu boasts many unmissable attractions such as Khe Van Waterfall and Khe Tien Waterfall. Visitors can also experience cloud hunting on Cao Ly Mountain or conquer the peaks of Quang Nam Chau and Cao Xiem. Additionally, you can admire the beauty of the terraced rice fields, visit the cinnamon and cassia forests, or participate in the tung tree and cassia flower festivals when they are in season.

Tran Cao Bao Long