After many years of traveling across the West - Northeast and many remote areas of the Fatherland, I still knew nothing about Binh Lieu land. Until 2018…
That year, we were invited to Quang Ninh because it was the year Quang Ninh hosted the National Tourism Year to further develop tourism. According to the plan, we split up to travel around the province during those two weeks and my group had the opportunity to visit Binh Lieu. I fell in love with this land from the first day I set foot here.
The endless border
The attraction here for me is to witness and experience the road along the border between our country and China. The small road runs along the "Border" winding up and down according to the terrain. Because I live in Ho Chi Minh City, this border is strange to me, I never thought it would be so simple.
Located about 120 km northeast of Ha Long, Binh Lieu is likened to a “miniature Sa Pa” at an altitude of 1,200 m above sea level, with a climate of four seasons in a day. Looming over the small houses with sandbags carefully weighted with corrugated iron on the roofs are small gardens; the red dots moving like flowers are the friendly Dao women. They always smile when I say hello. A local teacher told me they are Dao Thanh Phan, with high foreheads due to shaving both eyebrows and forehead hair and red scarves folded more than 20 cm high. This easily gives us the feeling that they are much taller, their skirts and dresses have patterns tilted towards bright red.
We captured the moments when they were working in the garden, collecting firewood... I entered a house when I saw smoke rising from the roof, they were in the kitchen preparing for lunch. The scene was very simple with a few stoves and shiny black pans, pots, and pans. Their lunch was eaten right in the corner of the house with a small, old table. The meal was mainly white rice with some vegetables, but to me, it was a very warm and happy meal.
Dawn at the sacred landmark
In the afternoon, we stayed at a beautiful homestay located on the hillside and right next to the border. In the evening, we interacted with the Dao people here with bowls of fragrant corn wine. They were very enthusiastic, cheerful and friendly, making us feel warmed in the cool weather, only about 20oC mid-summer in Quang Ninh.
Binh Lieu has many places worth visiting, but the "specialty" of this land is the "heavenly landmarks" in the border area due to its terrain bordering China. Among them, landmarks 1300, 1302, 1305 and 1327 are 4 sacred landmarks that cannot be missed when coming here. These landmarks are scattered on the border patrol route more than 700 m above sea level, winding on hills fragrant with the smell of pine resin.
Early the next morning, we went to watch the sunrise from the top of a small mountain where the 1327 milestone was located. This milestone was built on a not-so-high rock. Just over 1 km from the ring road, climbing back towards the top of the mountain to reach the foot of the peak. On the peaceful 1327 peak in the early morning mist, you can easily see the town and the landscape of China on the other side of the border and of our Fatherland in the opposite direction.
When we returned to the village, we saw the ethnic people doing their daily routines such as drying cinnamon and star anise, picking vegetables for chickens and pigs, and boiling bamboo shoots. Their activities were simple but brought so many emotions that it was hard to escape our lens. As for me, I also had time to capture precious moments for my photo collection in this land.
MORE INFORMATION
Trip:Binh Lieu is about 270-280 km from Hanoi, depending on the route you choose: Hai Phong Expressway - National Highway 10 - Uong Bi - Ha Long - Cam Pha - Tien Yen - National Highway 18C - Binh Lieu or National Highway 5 - National Highway 1 - Bac Ninh - Bac Giang - Lang Son - National Highway 4B - National Highway 18C - Binh Lieu.
Transportation:If you do not like driving yourself, from Hanoi, there are two bus companies that go straight to Binh Lieu: Hung Long and Kien Duc. When arriving in Binh Lieu, you can rent a motorbike to explore the town and conquer the patrol route, visit the border markers.
Time:In early spring, Binh Lieu has festivals imbued with the identity of the ethnic people such as Luc Na communal house festival, Soong Co love singing festival, and "wind abstinence" day. In late March and early April, you will be able to admire the beautiful Bauhinia flower season. Summer and autumn are the ideal times for you to admire waterfalls and green terraced fields. Winter is the harvest season and there are So flower festivals and new rice celebrations.
Accommodation:You can choose to rent a motel (average price 300,000 VND/night) or choose homestay service in Song Mooc and Khe Tien villages (average under 100,000 VND/person/night).
Cuisine:There are many delicious dishes to try when coming to Binh Lieu such as seven-color sticky rice, cooc mo cake, gat gu cake, wormwood cake, dong vermicelli, grilled stream fish, stir-fried bamboo shoots...
Attractions:Binh Lieu has many must-see attractions such as Khe Van waterfall, Khe Tien... Tourists can also try the feeling of cloud hunting on Cao Ly mountain or conquer the peak of Quang Nam Chau, Cao Xiem. In addition, you can also admire the beauty of terraced fields, visit anise forests, cinnamon forests or participate in festivals of Bauhinia and So flowers when in season.
