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Most recently, a culinary war erupted in July when the South Korean Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism announced that it was revising its official guidelines on "appropriate foreign language translations" for certain Korean dishes. This included a provision stating that “xinqi” would be the official name of kimchi when translated and transliterated into Chinese, instead of “pao cai” (fermented pickled vegetables) as in the previous guidelines.
The problem stemmed from the lack of suitable Chinese characters to represent the pronunciation of kimchi. Therefore, the Korean Ministry of Agriculture considered approximately 4,000 Chinese characters before deciding on “xinqi” (辛奇) as the appropriate term for this famous Korean dish. The reason given was that it sounded similar to “kimchi.” “Xinqi” (辛奇) consists of two Chinese characters: “xin” meaning spicy, and “qi” meaning unique or curious.
By using the Chinese word "xinqi" for kimchi, the South Korean Ministry of Agriculture hopes to clearly distinguish Korean kimchi from Chinese pao cai, as well as raise awareness of traditional Korean cuisine in the Chinese market.
The new guidelines apply to the South Korean government and some export businesses, but they are only recommendations for private Korean companies needing to translate the word "kimchi" into Chinese. However, this new word has sparked a wave of controversy among media and netizens in both countries.
Distinguishing between "kimchi" and "pao cai"
Before delving into this "battle," we should understand the difference between kimchi and pao cai.
"Kimchi" is a general term for over 100 types of fermented vegetables in Korea; however, the most popular is fermented napa cabbage seasoned with chili peppers, garlic, ginger, and salted seafood. But in reality, kimchi comes in many variations made from different vegetables and with varying levels of spiciness, such as chonggak kimchi (fermented radish kimchi) or baek kimchi (non-spicy white cabbage kimchi)...
Kimchi
Meanwhile, "pao cai" means "pickled vegetables" in Chinese. These are types of pickled vegetables (similar to Vietnamese pickled cabbage) typically made by soaking various green vegetables such as cabbage and carrots in a brine solution, with or without seasoning. The jars of vegetables are then fermented at room temperature.
Because they share some similarities, kimchi is often referred to as "hanguo pao cai," which means "Korean fermented vegetables" in China.
Pao cai
The attempt to change the name has been going on for almost 10 years.
This is not South Korea's first attempt to use the term "xinqi" as the Chinese name for kimchi. Previously, in 2013, the South Korean Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs lobbied for a new name to address the increasing number of Chinese-made kimchi products in overseas markets, as well as in the domestic market. Since 2006, South Korean kimchi sales have lagged behind those of Chinese products. Between 2007 and 2011, imports of kimchi from China to South Korea increased at least tenfold.
However, after the official announcement of the new name in 2013, there was an immediate backlash. Chinese people did not accept it and continued to use the name "pao cai" to refer to kimchi.
On the other hand, in the same year, South Korea also successfully had Kimjang—the culture of making kimchi—recognized as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage, making this dish a proud cultural symbol of South Korea.
"Kimchi is a national dish of South Korea, not only because its people eat kimchi with almost every meal, but also because it is the most famous Korean dish in the world. Many Westerners may still not be able to distinguish gimbap from sushi, but they can easily recognize that kimchi comes from Korea," says Elaine Chung, a lecturer in Chinese Studies at Cardiff University and a researcher on East Asia.
Previously, debates over the name of kimchi mainly took place between netizens of the two countries. However, this time, the tension has escalated as the issue has reached national media. “The South Korean government’s announcement of a new name shows their firm response. This demonstrates their determination to reclaim ownership of their traditional dish,” Elaine Chung asserted.
Cultural conflicts arise and continue.
Concerns about the Chinese name for Korean kimchi have increased significantly following a series of cultural clashes over the past year. In November 2020, China achieved ISO certification for its Sichuan-style pickled vegetables (Sichuan pao cai). The Global Times even wrote: "China is leading the international standard for the kimchi industry."
Korean netizens and media were not at all pleased at the time, believing the report was an attempt to "steal" kimchi and Korean culture. This also sparked a wave of calls to boycott Chinese culture. Furthermore, a video titled "Dirty Kimchi Factory in China," showing a nearly naked man immersed in a puddle of cabbage and brown liquid, was widely shared on social media and in Korean media, further escalating tensions.
The South Korean government has made efforts to "appease" the public by providing guidance on the distinction between kimchi and pao cai. Earlier this year, the national advertising agency of South Korea published a new book on kimchi, which includes an entire section highlighting the differences between pao cai and kimchi.
However, this did not lessen the anger of the Korean people, and this dissatisfaction even spilled over into the tourism and entertainment sectors. In South Korea, the plan to build a Chinatown tourist area in Gangwon Province was postponed in April of this year after thousands of netizens signed a petition protesting it. Meanwhile, the drama series Joseon Exorcist was halted after only two episodes due to overwhelming viewer protests about costumes, alcohol, and food being identical to those in Chinese dramas.
Will this change be any different?
This time, several companies reacted to the name change. The translation department of Naver, South Korea's largest search engine, revised the Chinese translation of kimchi to "xinqi," instead of the previous "pao cai." Additionally, on the Chinese website of the food brand Bibigo, kimchi is also translated as "xinqi."
Of course, this new name has not yet been well-received by the Chinese people. On China's Weibo social media platform, comments on the new name "xinqi" are mostly negative. Some refuse to use the term and say that kimchi is also derived from the Chinese dish pao cai. Others say they recognize the difference but don't like the new name. "I don't understand why we have to use the translation 'xinqi' suggested by Koreans. Shouldn't language evolve according to user habits?", one user shared.
East Asia researcher Elaine Chung noted that the attempt to rename the term failed in 2013 because most Chinese speakers did not use the term. “It’s very difficult to convince people to use a word that has no meaning in Chinese to replace a term they’ve been familiar with for years.”
Furthermore, the name "xinqi" may not be legally recognized in China. A document issued by the South Korean government also emphasizes that companies exporting kimchi to China must exercise caution, as Chinese law stipulates that companies must use names familiar to Chinese consumers. This means that businesses may find it difficult to use the term "xinqi" alone to describe kimchi; they still need to label it as "pao cai."
With the controversies spanning across borders, it's difficult to say whether this latest attempt to rename Korean kimchi will be more successful. However, Elaine Chung asserts, "It's almost impossible to quell the ongoing cultural battles surrounding this iconic dish."
