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Cano Cristales, the strange river
The Cano Cristales River is located in Serrania de la Macarena National Park, within the La Macarena National Reserve in Colombia, covering an area of 3,900 square kilometers.2The Cano Cristales was discovered by explorer Andres Hurtado in 1980. This 100-kilometer-long river is one of the most spectacular natural wonders of Colombia and the world.
For most of the year, the river remains its usual clear blue color, but in the summer, it transforms into a vibrant and striking tapestry. The riverbed displays a mix of bright red, yellow, green, blue, and black, creating a spectacular scene. The best time to admire this beautiful natural spectacle is from mid-May, but it is at its most brilliant between June and November. This phenomenon can last until the end of December, after which it returns to its original blue color and continues its color-changing cycle the following year. This fascinating phenomenon has earned Cano Cristales the nickname "rainbow river" or "five-colored river".
The element that gives this stretch of river its color is the aquatic plant Macarenia Clavigera, a species endemic to the mountain range where Cano Cristales is located. Depending on the water level and sunlight, Macarenia Clavigera will transform into different shades of color.
According to scientists, the Cano Cristales River is located in a region known as a "biodiversity hotspot," where the Andes Mountains, the Amazon and Orinoco river basins converge – home to many endemic plant and animal species. The river also features many sections of tiered rock formations, creating stunning waterfalls and mesmerizing rock pools.
Because it is located in a remote area, almost completely isolated from the outside world, the river has retained its pristine and picturesque beauty. For various reasons, tourists were previously not allowed to visit the river. In 2009, the area opened to the public and attracted millions of visitors from around the world. However, Cano Cristales only welcomes tourists from June to December; the rest of the year it is closed to allow the ecosystem to "rest".
Concerns arising from "tourism overload"
Before the pandemic, thousands of tourists flocked to Colombia each year to witness the rare spectacle of the Cano Cristales River, leading scientists to worry that the river could be threatened by "tourism overload."
Flavia Santoro, head of ProColombia, the National Tourism Board, said that measures needed to be taken to protect the area from the overwhelming influx of tourists. Authorities have implemented strict restrictions on tourism infrastructure development in La Macarena, the small town closest to the National Park, as well as limiting the number of visitors to just 200 per day.
Despite environmental authorities closing the site in December 2019 to protect the river, many tourists still flock here. The closure was subsequently extended due to the pandemic. Biologists say that the 18-month absence of tourists, until its reopening in June of this year, has greatly benefited the area. Faber Ramos, a ranger and ecotourism coordinator in the Orinoco area of the La Macarena National Reserve, said the pandemic had a positive impact on the river's "health," and that there has been a noticeable increase in animal populations.
During peak periods, Cano Cristales welcomes around 15,000 tourists annually, and this number is projected to continue to rise. Colombia has seen steady growth in annual tourism since signing a peace agreement with the FARC insurgents in 2016, officially ending more than 50 years of civil war. In the 2017-2018 period alone, the country saw a 38% increase in tourist numbers.
Balancing tourism and nature conservation
Previously, international tourists and even Colombians avoided Cano Cristales because the river lay in an area controlled by the FARC guerrillas. However, in recent years, the increase in visitors has greatly benefited the tourism industry and the surrounding small towns. Nevertheless, environmental problems have begun to emerge here – a place that had remained virtually untouched for half a century.
Carlos Lasso, a senior researcher at the Humboldt Institute, a biodiversity agency in Colombia, said: “This area is a biodiversity hotspot. It is a convergence of the biological elements of the Andes, Amazon, and Orinoco basins, home to many endemic and rare plant and animal species. In addition, deforestation in the area is occurring at an alarming rate.”
Deforestation is one of Colombia's most pressing problems. Every day, an area of forest equivalent to the size of 40 football fields disappears, and the La Macarena region is no exception. Deforestation affects rainfall patterns, resulting in less rain in the area. This means the Cano Cristales River's water will turn from clear to a murky brown, affecting and potentially killing Macarenia Clavigera, the aquatic species that creates the river's "rainbow" colors.
When Colombia opened its borders, the challenge facing Cano Cristales was to ensure that the ecosystem's tourist carrying capacity wasn't exceeded. "This area is difficult to protect because it's so far from all the cities," Lasso said. "Although the government is doing a good job, there are still things that need improvement, and the National Park should have more staff to protect and monitor the area."
Restoring the "health" of nature's masterpiece.
The pandemic created an opportunity to reduce the number of visitors, and to restore and care for the "health" of the National Park. Last June, Cano Cristales reopened with the introduction of 10 new ecotourism routes, operating under strict hours from 7 am to 4 pm.
Designated swimming areas are located on the river. However, visitors are not permitted to apply sunscreen or insect repellent while swimming, as the vegetation is sensitive to the chemical components of these products. The use of single-use plastics such as bags, bottles, straws, containers, plates, and cutlery is also prohibited. Regional tourism authorities are also promoting eco-friendly accommodation options for visitors, such as Wayabero Lodge, which focuses on ecosystem conservation and developing sustainable programs for the local community.
Besides admiring the river's unique scenery, visitors also have the opportunity to observe the rich wildlife. Serrania de la Macarena National Park is home to over 400 species of birds and many rare animals such as turtles, iguanas, and aguilas – the national bird of Colombia.
Note for visitors
If you plan to travel to Colombia and visit the Cano Cristales River once travel becomes safer, please note the following points. You can visit the "river of five colors" on your own, but you need to be accompanied by a government-licensed tour guide. The number of visitors per day is limited, and most permits are usually issued to tour companies, so you should book your tour through an agent in advance.
Tour companies typically design trips lasting 2-4 days, taking visitors to the attractive destinations within the National Park. You can stay in the nearest town, La Macarena. Make sure you bring plenty of cash, as ATMs in the town are few and not always working. You should also get vaccinated against yellow fever and malaria, as you may need to present a certificate at La Macarena airport.
