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When visiting Nghe An province, one cannot fail to mention this poem:
"Green tea with a touch of spicy ginger"
"The 'Cu Do' candy from Ha Tinh captivates people's hearts..."
Cu Đơ is the name of a famous specialty candy from Ha Tinh province. The candy is made primarily from sugarcane molasses, peanuts, malt, and fresh ginger. Mentioning Cu Đơ sparks curiosity about the origin and name of this unique specialty.
Cu Đơ is the name of a famous specialty candy from Ha Tinh province.
This family craft is 25 years old.
Stepping into Mr. Ha Danh's "cu do" candy workshop in Binh An commune, Loc Ha district, Ha Tinh province on a summer day in mid-July, the Central Vietnamese sun combined with the heat radiating from the simmering pots of candy cooked over a traditional wood-fired stove made me even more curious about how a "cu do" candy is made.
Mr. Ha Danh's hands moved swiftly, working tirelessly from one step to the next. While making the candy, he recounted: "My family has a tradition of making 'cu do' candy, passed down from my parents' generation in Ha Tinh city. In 1998, my wife and I started our business and developed this specialty brand. Since then, I have spent 25 years in this traditional craft of making 'cu do' candy."
To make authentic and delicious Cu Đơ candy, the ingredient selection process is meticulous and crucial, including peanuts, ginger, malt syrup, molasses, and two pieces of pressed rice paper. The choice of ingredients will significantly impact the flavor.
Mr. and Mrs. Ha Danh have been making "cu do" candy since 1998, almost 25 years now.
According to Mr. Ha Danh, the peanuts must be firm and uniform in size, without any shriveled or moldy kernels. When peeled, the peanuts should be ivory white, not broken in half, and crunchy and fragrant with a nutty flavor when bitten. The molasses must be pure sugarcane molasses, bright yellow and unadulterated, thick, fragrant, and of just the right consistency so that when dipped in with chopsticks, it can be pulled into long, thin strands. The sweetness of the molasses is rich but not overpowering, and the aroma is subtly fragrant. The rice paper wrappers should be neither too thick nor too thin, with some coated in sesame seeds and others plain. In addition, the ginger is carefully selected, such as fresh, mature ginger with firm skin and a pungent, spicy flavor.
Cu Đơ candy may look easy to make, but to make it delicious and retain its flavor, the maker must have a secret recipe to achieve the right sweetness and preserve the spicy ginger, the fragrant peanuts, and the crispy rice paper.
The nutty flavor of peanuts blends perfectly with the sweet, yet not overly sweet, molasses, and the moderately spicy kick of ginger, all expertly prepared and meticulously cooked over a wood fire by the skilled hands of the chef.
Pressed rice paper is neither too thick nor too thin, and comes in varieties coated with sesame seeds and plain rice paper.
"I still use the traditional wood-fired cooking method, personally tending the fire and stirring the pot. Maintaining the fire during cooking is considered one of the crucial steps in ensuring the success of a batch of candy. If the fire is too strong, the syrup will stick to the bottom of the pot, causing it to burn. If the fire is too weak, it won't be enough to crisp the peanuts. Therefore, the skill of the cook lies in keeping the fire burning evenly," said Mr. Ha Danh.
During the candy-making process, the heat should not be too high. Stir continuously while cooking to ensure the candy develops a beautiful color without burning. Once the syrup has reached the desired consistency, add the finely grated ginger and peanuts, stirring until the syrup and peanuts are well combined. To check if the candy is cooked, the maker will dip a chopstick into the syrup and drop it into a bowl of water. If the drop of syrup is round and doesn't dissolve, the batch is ready. Finally, spread a piece of rice paper on a flat surface, scoop the candy evenly onto it, and then use a second piece of rice paper to sandwich the hot syrup layer between the two. This step requires great skill to prevent the rice paper from breaking.
When the candy is cooked, the maker carefully scoops it onto the surface of the rice cracker, spreads it evenly, and then gently places the other rice cracker on top, making sure not to break it.
Whether the candy is chewy or firm, fragrant or not, is a secret recipe unique to each maker. Once the molasses has been stirred to the desired consistency, the candy maker adds peanuts and stirs until they release their rich, nutty aroma.
Originally a traditional craft and primarily cooked over a wood fire, Mr. and Mrs. Ha Danh are always busy all day long, from preparing ingredients, pouring and stirring the candy, to packaging and receiving orders. On average, they cook about 10 pots of candy per day, each pot containing at least 80 pieces. Each pot takes 30 minutes to cook. Cu Do candy comes in many varieties: thick, thin, large, small, with sesame seeds and without. Prices range from 60,000 to 120,000 VND per 10 pieces. Cu Do candy can be kept for about 5 months.
Having worked in the production of "cu đơ" candy for many years, Mr. Ha Danh has gained a wealth of experience, from selecting the right ingredients to ensuring the candy has a fragrant and delicious flavor. In particular, his "cu đơ" candy products are cooked with just the right amount of sugar to ensure consumer health and cater to a diverse range of customers.
Mr. Ha Danh further shared: "People think making 'cu do' candy is easy, but in reality, it's not easy at all. Just one small mistake can ruin the whole batch of candy or result in a substandard product, so you have to be very careful in every step, from selecting ingredients and processing techniques to ensuring food safety and hygiene."
Every step, from selecting and processing raw materials to production and packaging, is carried out meticulously.
On average, Mr. Ha Danh cooks about 10 pots of candy per day, each pot containing at least 80 pieces. Each pot takes 30 minutes to cook. Cu Do candy comes in many varieties: thick, thin, large, small, with sesame seeds and without. Prices range from 60,000 to 120,000 VND per 10 pieces.
Decoding the meaning of the name "cu đơ"
In Ha Tinh today, people still recount the origin of the name "Cu Do." It originated from the name of a person and became the name of a famous local delicacy.
According to locals, the name "cu đơ" originated in Huong Son district (Ha Tinh province). It has been passed down through generations that the candy was initially called "cu Hai"—the name of the first man who made this type of candy at the time. Besides a proper name, "cu" was an affectionate nickname for boys (for example: Cu Ty, Cu Teo...). When the French colonialists invaded, French soldiers found the candy delicious and investigated further. Upon learning its original name was "cu Hai," they changed "Hai" to "deux" for easier pronunciation. Therefore, "cu Hai" candy became "cu deux" candy, and its Vietnamese pronunciation is "cu đơ."
Cu Đơ candy is said to be as rich and flavorful as the hometown of Ha Tinh. Although sweet and savory, it remains light and refreshing when enjoyed with green tea.
Today, Ha Tinh still preserves the traditional craft of producing cu do candy in many localities. Not only has it developed the production of this distinctive candy of the sunny and windy Central Vietnam, but cu do candy has also become a unique feature, a simple yet delightful treat whenever Ha Tinh is mentioned.
Enjoying a piece of "cu đơ" with its sweet and fragrant molasses, spicy ginger, crunchy peanuts, and sesame rice paper, followed by a sip of green tea with its rich sweetness and hint of bitterness, is enough to pique the curiosity of any diner when mentioning this region.
Not only is it a unique treat for those living far from home, but anyone who tastes cu đơ can clearly feel the sweet and slightly spicy flavor, a distillation of the hard work of the people of Ha Tinh, poured into each piece of candy. Therefore, cu đơ is considered a meaningful gift, a heartfelt sentiment that, when far from home, can be confidently introduced and evoked by the song: "No matter where you go, you'll always remember Ha Tinh."
The chewy texture of molasses blends with the crunchy, nutty flavor of peanuts, occasionally punctuated by the spicy kick of ginger... all these qualities are present in Cu Đơ candy.
