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WHAT'S INTERESTING ABOUT THE MAE HONG SON LOOP?
Thailand is known for its incredibly friendly approach to tourism. Thai food is delicious, and the Thai people always have a smile on their faces. Most tourists choose relaxing experiences such as visiting floating markets, watching Thai shows, admiring temples, or simply getting a Thai massage to unwind. But if you're an adventurous explorer, the Mae Hong Son Loop is definitely a great choice.
Mae Hong Son Loop is an interesting option for adventure enthusiasts in Thailand.
The route starts from Chiang Mai city, passes through Pai town, to the ancient Ban Rak Thai, through the long-necked village of Huay Pu Keng, and returns to Mae Hong Son town, where you receive your certificate of completion. The main highlight of the journey is the winding, impressive road to the stunning Ban Rak Thai.
After conquering the trail, you will continue to Doi Inthanon in a circular route and return to Chiang Mai to complete the journey. Depending on your time and fitness level, the Mae Hong Son Loop trail may end earlier or later. The trip will last several days, with 4 days being the most reasonable duration.
WHAT DO YOU NEED TO PREPARE BEFORE THE MAE HONG SON LOOP?
To complete the Mae Hong Son Loop safely and have a great experience, you need to prepare the following:
Transportation: Most people who experience this route choose to travel by motorbike. This is because it's a great opportunity to fully admire the beauty of Northern Thailand. Motorbike rental prices depend on the type of bike you rent. You can also negotiate the price with the rental shop owner if you plan to travel for several days.
Protective gear: With 1864 sharp curves in quick succession, plus some sections of the road being quite rough, preparing protective gear is absolutely essential.
Budget: Good finances will help ensure a smooth and safe trip. Many areas in northern Thailand are quite sparsely populated, so be sure to withdraw cash in the town before you go.
To conquer those winding roads, you need to be well-prepared.
FROM CHIANG MAI TO MAE HONG SON
I left Chiang Mai at 7 a.m. The weather was quite pleasant. I had breakfast in Chiang Mai and set off. The highway in Chiang Mai was beautiful, paved, and perfectly straight. I drove along smoothly.
It must be said that the deeper you go into northern Thailand, the more romantic the scenery becomes. Wildflowers line both sides of the road. This beauty may not compare to northern Vietnam, but it's rare to find such a wild and untamed beauty anywhere else in Thailand.
Northern Thailand offers a very picturesque and romantic beauty along the route.
PEACE IN PAI
The first leg of the Mae Hong Son Loop trek is to Pai town. Along the way, you'll encounter a "Welcome to Pai" sign. However, this sign is quite unique because it's covered with stickers from many "heroes" from all over the world who have had the chance to travel this route, wanting to leave their own mark on the board. I also stopped to take a picture with my pristine white Wave motorbike.
Approaching the town of Pai, you'll see the Memorial Bridge. This bridge was built to symbolize the friendship between Myanmar and Thailand during World War II. To this day, the bridge is no longer in operation and serves only as a photo spot for backpackers.
The Memorial Bridge is one of the must-see spots for travel enthusiasts.
Near Memorial Bridge lies Pai Canyon, a wild, eroded canyon with deep, cracked fissures that create a unique natural landscape. Lush green forests blanket the pathways. This is one of the must-see spots when visiting Pai town.
Along that same route, I stopped by Kho Ku So Bamboo – a long, winding bamboo bridge. The road leading there was really difficult, as it was in serious disrepair with potholes and bumps everywhere. If you weren't careful, you'd fall right onto the road.
The entrance fee to Kho Ku So Bamboo Bridge is 30 Baht. Inside, there are buffaloes grazing; it's not rice season, but the dry grass season. I sat on the bamboo bridge to admire the uniquely beautiful sunset.
Kho Ku So Bamboo – A bridge stretching endlessly long like bamboo.
It was already 6 PM, and we were only 5km from the center of Pai town. I stopped at the night market to try some local food. Pai's night market sells a lot of things. What impressed me most were probably the traditional products made by the ethnic people.
The town of Pai isn't particularly lively at night, as it's quite far from Chiang Mai. Tattoo parlors dot the area, catering to visitors seeking new tattoos. A Thai girl stands in the middle of Pai, dancing to her favorite songs to solicit donations. Pai looks very peaceful at night. I took a stroll around before returning to my homestay to sleep.
The town of Pai isn't particularly lively at night either.
BAN RAK THAI MIRACLE
When the sun rose, I woke up, prepared a plate of rice, and set off for Ban Rak Thai. The distance is 120 km. Just like yesterday, I wasn't in a hurry, I wasn't jostling. I walked at my own pace, also giving myself the opportunity to slowly observe the world around me.
Of the 1864 winding curves of the Mae Hong Son Loop, the road to Ban Rak Thai was perhaps the most arduous for me. Sweat poured down my face, sharp turns followed one after another, and even after driving until my hands ached, there were still more curves to come. Pine forests lined both sides of the road, but recent forest fires had left the pines blackened and charred. Occasionally, I could still see smoke rising from the sides of the road.
As I approached Ban Rak Thai, the scenery was enchanting. Wildflowers lined the roadside, and the farmers' fields of lush green mustard flowers stretched out before me. Beyond the welcome sign were the small houses of the Thai people of Yunnan, China. A crystal-clear lake, with boats carrying tourists, and vast, verdant tea plantations. My emotions were satisfied; despite the hardships of the past few days, arriving here filled my heart with joy.
Of the 1864 winding curves of the Mae Hong Son Loop, the road to Ban Rak Thai was perhaps the most arduous for me.
LONG-NECKED TRIBES BORDERING MYANMAR
On the third day, after enjoying a bowl of plain rice porridge and a sip of delicious Hmong tea in Ban Rak Thai, I set off for Huay Pu Keng, a village known for its long necks – where women are considered beautiful.
This stretch of road along the border is intensely eerie. The sun is scorching hot. Crossing the bamboo bridge reveals the houses of the long-necked people. This tribe has lived here for decades. The villagers mainly weave scarves and sell souvenirs. There are also tourists, but most arrive by boat along the Pai River. The entrance fee to the long-necked village is 200 baht.
This tribe has been here for nearly decades. The villagers mainly weave scarves and sell souvenirs.
CERTIFICATE OF COMPLETION OF MAE HONG SON LOOP
In the afternoon, after visiting the long-necked village, I returned to Mae Hong Son. If you're a true adventurer, you'd probably want to hold a certificate proving you've successfully navigated the treacherous, winding 1864 road.
I went to Feel Good Café to get my certificate. Here, you can choose between two types of certificates: one with an image of the long-necked people in Huay Pu Keng village, and the other with an image of Buddhist monks – a characteristic feature of Thailand. I chose the second type. The total cost was 60 Baht. So, officially, I had completed my Mae Hong Son Loop trek.
After navigating the treacherous, winding bends of the 1864 mountain range, you are presented with a certificate confirming your successful completion.
Mae Hong Son town is located near the border, so the scenery is equally enchanting. Here, you must check out Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu temple – a place that offers a panoramic view of Mae Hong Son town.
In the evening in Mae Hong Son, I treated myself to a delicious meal after three days of traveling in Northern Thailand. I ordered a meal at Bai Fern restaurant with two dishes: Tom Yum soup and stir-fried noodles. The price was good and the food was absolutely delicious.
On the fourth day, I concluded my exploration of the Mae Hong Son Loop with a journey from Mae Hong Son to Doi Inthanon – a place considered an icon of Northern Thailand. The air was filled with the scent of flowers, and the fragrant gardens of Doi Inthanon soothed my soul. My four-day conquest of the Mae Hong Son Loop came to an end. Standing atop the high tower, I gazed upon the panoramic view of Thailand's mountains, overwhelmed with emotion.
Doi Inthanon – A place considered an icon of Northern Thailand.
SOME ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
With 1864 treacherous hairpin bends, those who trek the Mae Hong Son Loop need to be in good health. If you are not in good health, you should not attempt it, as you will face many difficulties due to the continuous sharp turns.
Riding a motorbike in Thailand isn't difficult. You'll find a traffic police checkpoint every time you pass a town. As long as you follow the rules (driving on the left) and don't violate any regulations, you won't get stopped by the Thai police.
It's best to refuel in the town, because the mountain roads in Thailand are very winding and consume a lot of fuel. And those stretches of road are really deserted; sometimes you only see a few other tourists and backpackers, and rarely do you see locals.
It's best to book homestays along this route in advance, as rooms may be unavailable during peak season. Some homestays you can consider: In Pai, Jam Hostel & Campground is a good choice; in Ban Rak Thai, Lee Wine Ruk Thai Resort is highly recommended; in Mae Hong Son town, you can stay at Crossroads House; and in Doi Inthanon, Kwanlah Homestay is a good option. These homestays have high ratings on booking websites.
You can follow the route clockwise or counterclockwise. It's up to you whichever place you prefer to visit first. The route could be as follows: Chiang Mai City – Pai – Ban Rak Thai – Huay Pu Keng – Mae Hong Son – Doi Inthanon – Chiang Mai City. Or Chiang Mai City – Doi Inthanon – Mae Hong Son – Huay Pu Keng – Ban Rak Thai – Pai – Chiang Mai City.
