VI
Mae Hong Son is often mentioned in terms of numbers: 4,088 hairpin bends, a series of winding mountain passes amidst the forests of northwestern Thailand. But off the main roads, this region reveals a different way of life – slower, lower, and closer to the rice paddies.
From the town center, the road leading to Pang Mu, approximately 8-10 km north, unfolds into a landscape of interwoven hills and rice paddies. The road surface is flat, only gently curving along the terrain rather than being as steep as the province's famous mountain passes, allowing vehicles to travel at speeds exceeding 60 km/h.
Scenes flash by along the road but linger longer in the eye: blossoming kapok flowers, bursting with vibrant red like tiny flames against the blue sky; a mountain shaped like a reclining elephant appearing in the distance across the fields.
Su Tong Pae - The longest bamboo bridge in Thailand
Parking in the lot in front of the fields, and passing through the small souvenir market, Su Tong Pae emerges as a slender horizontal line against the green backdrop. A nearly 500-meter-long bamboo path crosses the rice paddies and a small stream, leading straight to the hill where Wat Tham Poo Sa Ma temple sits bathed in sunlight.
The Su Tong Pae bamboo bridge, nearly 500 meters long, leads directly to the hill where Wat Tham Poo Sa Ma temple is located.
The bridge was built around 2011-2012 by the villagers of Ban Kung Mai Sak and the monks of the temple. The entire structure is made of bamboo and wood: supporting pillars are driven deep into the rice paddy to hold the horizontal frame; above, interwoven bamboo strips form a flat surface.
Initially, Su Tong Pae was just a temporary path used by monks for their morning alms rounds and by villagers traveling between the village and the temple during the rainy season, when the rice fields below were flooded and the dirt road became muddy. Later, with urban development and the appearance of reinforced concrete bridges, Su Tong Pae retained its original structure and became the longest bamboo bridge in Thailand today.
Each step on the bridge creates a slight vibration, a faint but lively creaking sound. It evokes memories of the old bamboo bridges spanning canals and ditches – architecture born from practical need rather than intended to be a symbol.
Golden Buddha hall under a metal-carved Shan roof
At the end of the bridge is Wat Tham Poo Sa Ma – a small temple nestled on the hillside, its back against the mountain, its front facing the valley and the village of Ban Kung Mai Sak. The structure features Shan architecture with multi-tiered, layered roofs covered in dark yellow corrugated iron; a reddish-brown painted wooden frame; and roof edges and gables covered in intricately carved silver-white metal panels, creating a sharp, bright, and striking appearance in the sunlight. The high, slender, and pointed roof peaks form a sharp outline against the sky.
Wat Tham Poo Sa Ma temple features Shan architecture with a multi-tiered, layered roof covered in dark yellow corrugated iron; a reddish-brown painted wooden frame; and roof edges and gables covered with intricately carved silver-white metal panels.
Inside the main hall, a gilded Buddha statue sits on a high pedestal, its head adorned with a multi-tiered crown inlaid with red and blue stones, its body covered in intricate patterns and densely decorated sashes in the style of Thai royal Buddhism. Behind it is a symmetrical gilded relief panel against a dark red wall.
The yellow wall on the side of the main hall serves as a backdrop for the colorful spiderweb-like ribbons (Tung Yai Maeng Mum) that run diagonally like threads connecting earth and sky. Bamboo frames woven into star shapes and polygonal nets – handicrafts of the Lanna culture of Northern Thailand – hang in a continuous sequence, creating a vibrant and protective layer of decoration. Wooden wish tags are densely hung throughout the grounds, the handwritten inscriptions layered over the years, reflecting the enduring faith of locals and visitors in the sacredness of the temple.
A gilded Buddha statue in the style of the Thai royal Buddhist tradition.
To the left of the main hall, a long staircase leads down to a garden where rows of white chedi—a type of stupa characteristic of Thai Buddhism, with a round body and a gold-plated spire—are arranged in a straight line. Next to it is the central Buddhist flagpole, often displayed during major festivals or in the stupa area on the hill.
Behind the main hall, a small path leads up to the meditation area and a small cave on the hill – where the monks practice meditation. From this vantage point, the view is expansive, encompassing the entire Pang Mu field and the long stretch of bamboo bridge below. Visitors can stop by the wooden railing next to the free water stand, or gently tap the bronze bell hanging under the Bodhi tree, listening to its resonant sound fade into the tranquil space.
Wat Tham Poo Sa Ma is a multi-tiered architectural complex where Shan architecture, elaborately decorated Buddha statues, and a system of white stupas create visual depth against a mountainous landscape.
The value of the Su Tong Pae and Wat Tham Poo Sa Ma complex lies in maintaining a tangible connection between daily life and spiritual life. The bridge does not detach itself from local life to become an independent symbol. It remains connected to the seasons, to the morning alms-gathering route, and to a small temple located at the end of the bridge span.
Things to note when visiting Su Tong Pae and Wat Tham Poo Sa Ma:
In Mae Hong Son during the dry season, daytime temperatures can exceed 35 degrees Celsius, with intense sunshine and little shade on the bamboo bridge and in the Pang Mu fields. However, temperatures drop rapidly in the evening and early morning, creating a noticeable difference between day and night. Visitors should prepare light but protective clothing, and bring a hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen if walking on the bridge at midday.
When entering the grounds of Wat Tham Poo Sa Ma temple, please dress modestly, preferably with sleeves and trousers or skirts that cover your knees. Maintain order, avoid making noise in the meditation area and main hall, do not litter, and respect areas reserved for monks and nuns.
Before visiting, tourists should also research visitor regulations, seasonal weather, and local customs to ensure proper preparation, especially if visiting during Buddhist holidays.
